New Shop Going up

[Greg Pierce]

Hello All,

I am getting ready to put up a 30 X 40 Steelmaster building. Do any of you have this type of building, Steelmaster or other similar type? I plan to have a finish room, small office, and small bath. Concrete floor, 10' roll up door, 1 walk in door. A few items I am wondering about.

Those of you that have this type of corogated (?) metal building, how did you insulate it?

Dust collection in the floor for TS and Jointer, Planer? or over head

I have the ability to put it up anyway I like, but as you know only once, open for suggestions for things I might not be thinking of yet.

I can't wait, all my WW tools are at my business shop taking up space there 25 miles from home, so on weekends and nights I can't be making sawdust.

Thanks for your input.

[David G Baker]

I am not familiar with the Steelmaster, my building is a 30x40 pole barn with metal siding, wooden trusses covered with 1/2 OSB, 15 lb tar paper and 30 year asphalt shingles.
The floor is concrete over 2 inches of blue board foam insulation, vapor barrier and 18 inches of sand. There is a drain in the middle of the floor.
I had 1 inch foam covered both sides with tin foil under the metal siding and 14 inches of blow in insulation in the ceiling. My ceiling is 7/16 OSB my walls will be covered with 7/16 OSB painted with a gloss white oil based paint. I have 18 inch overhang on all eves and will be installing gutters on them.
I have a 10x10 roll up door, one walk through door and two double pane 3x3 windows.
Heated with a 75,BTU Hot Dawg ceiling heater fired with natural gas.
Hopes this helps.
David

[Greg Pierce]

Thanks David,

I hadn't thought about the insulation under the concrete. We don't get as cold here as you do, but the concrete floor always seems cold.

Another question I didn't post was, I think I will put 6" pvc pipe in the floor for the DC for TS, Router, & Jointer. Does that seem right?

Still looking for an answer to how to insulate the walls of this wavy sided building.

[Bill Boehme]

....Another question I didn't post was, I think I will put 6" pvc pipe in the floor for the DC for TS, Router, & Jointer. Does that seem right?.....

I would not put it under the floor. Sometimes small cutoff strips from the TS will get sucked into the DC system and there might be a possibility of a log jam at an elbow under the floor.

Bill

[David Boffa]

Greg,

I have a 30 x 40 pole building that I wrapped with house wrap, framed the interior walls insulated and drywalled. I chose a shingled roof instead of metal. Central air and gas furnace.

I ran 6 inch pvc pippe under ground. That is one of the best things that I did in the shop. The pipes are spaceduch that if I needed to move equipment, there would be another pipe close enough by. I also added 3 pipes for exspansion that are just capped off. HTH.

[Steve Kohn]

When I had my shop built, 28X30 feet, I asked the architect about insulation under the concrete slab. He suggested to save the cost of insulating the full slab that we put 2 inch foam around the first 2 feet of the perimeter. Works like a charm and much lower cost.

[Dick Bringhurst]

It would seem there would be a blown type of insulation that sticks to the siding (inside) and could be struck flush with the studs. The PVC in the floor will work ok if youget it located right the first time. A vapor barrier under the slab is a MUST. Dick B.

[Greg Pierce]

Thanks for the info guys. I thought I would have found someone here that has a building built like this. Here is a link to what it looks likehttp://www.steelmasterusa.com/pages/RES/buildings/gallery/A/a7.html

And here is one of the inside.http://www.steelmasterusa.com/pages/RES/buildings/gallery/A/a12.html

If you look at the walls you can see my question. I am trying to figure out the best way to insulate them. Was thinking of putting Pegboard above my benchs and filling behind it with blown insulation. Trying to find some kind of spray on foam for above 8' and on the ceiling.

[Matt Moore]

Greg
I too am planning a steel building when we move to our land. I have 2 acres waiting for me and hopefully we will be there withing 6 months or so and I will be able to get started.

Anyway, I have done alot of research on steel buildings and essencially eliminated the type of building you are planning since the wall space is much more difficult to use. Also, hanging stuff is a problem as well as insulation.

I did alot of research by searching on Google groups for "steel building" and other similar terms. This question and similar ones has been posed.

My conclusion is that these type of building with single piece and rounded shape would be great for just a storage building but would be less useful or frustrating for a working shop. I am not saying that you cannot make due but a steel building with straight walls and a traditional pitched roof may have more "usable" space and be easier to insulate and hang things on.

[Greg Pierce]

Matt,
Your right about frustrating! But I have several Ideas in mind. One is to frame the bottom with 2x4's and make a wall. Seems a waste though, I could have just built a stick built. Another is to run slats down the walls and attache osb or such to that.

I got a good deal on the building is why I have it anyway. A customer wanted to trade the building for some work, so here I go.

[Al Killian]

You can use either spray foam or the other blown in stuff. The spray foam will be quicker and better R-value. Here is a link for it http://www.icynene.com/. If you go with the othe stuff you could put up firring strips and plastic to keep it from going all over the shop.