Pocket hole jig opinion

[David Less]

Hi Creekers,

I'm going to build a few face frames and am going to try using pocket hole jointery. I'm sort of an old style traditionalist when it comes to my wood projects but after reading about it I guess I will opt for the ease of it. Any way, what does everyone recommend?? I was reading about the Kreg K3 kit. Is there anything better out there? I like to buy the best (if I can afford to). I can justify the price if it is a value.

Thanks for your input

David

[Jim Becker]

Kreg is the one all others are compared to, for the most part. There are more expensive "machines" available from Kreg and others, but the kit you mention is great for most hobbiests and even small pro shops. I have the "original" kit and while it's not as nice as the current one, I'd not give it up. I also have the Rocket, but only use it very infrequently when I need to drill a pocket hole in an "inconvenient place" that doesn't allow me to use the regular "two hole" jig. I have two threaded inserts in my miter station top that I can fasten the jig down to when I use it for convenience and use a couple scraps of 3/4" material to support wide panels. (The current kits include support for that)

[Gary Keedwell]

I have # 2 and wish I had all the features #3 has.

Gary K.

[Mark Rios]

I love my K3 full kit.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi David,

I have the older K2000 pro kit and really like it if you come across a good deal on it.

I don't remember any bells and whistles from when it came out that would justify up grading as I had already added dust collection to my stationary jig.

[David G Baker]

I bought the K3 kit a couple months ago and love it. Paid $149.
David

[Joe Mioux]

I have the second version, and like it alot.... Fast and easy.


A friend of mine has the Porter Cable electric version.....all I can say is WOW... talk about nice clean pockets!

Joe

[John Kain]

I bought the "rocket" and am pleased.

As I'm not a professional cabinetmaker, its services are all I need. I think it costs about $50-$60. The key component is the clamp which makes it all work very well.

[Tim Dorcas]

I bought my kit a year ago and there's rarely a project that I don't use it on. It's quick and easy to use without a lot of setup time. For the money, it's one of the best things I own.

Tim

[Bob Reeve]

I have the K2000 and am tempted to upgrade to the K3. It has several new features, dust collection, front locking handle and it is easier to adjust. It is a great deal.

Bob

[Scott Thornton]

I have owned the K2000 and the new K3, love them...can't go wrong, but I'd recommend the new one...you can pick up the big package with a special on Amazon pretty cheap.

[John Lucas]

I bought my first one from Marc Sommerfeld when he was doing the Kreg circuit at shows...in 78 or so. Still use it but also just got the new K3 large kit. The front toggle is very niceas is the new clamp. The hieght adjustment is good I just havent had much use for it yet.

[Owen Gregg]

Like many other people, I owned the basic K3 and was very happy with it. I upgraded and am even more pleased. Definitely go with the Master package if you decide to get it.

[Mack Cameron]

Hi David; while I have a Kreg (the K2 I purchased years ago), I just can't bring myself to use it on face frames. It's those ugly holes. I know there are plugs for them, but still they are ugly.
Have you ever considered dowels? I just purchased the DowelMax, a precision engineered joining system (that's their words, but I would have to agree with them). About $350 CDN, for everything, they are a Canadian product with a website. Google to find them, since the TOS won't allow me to give you the link.
I just finished a top of a blanket box that required 4 butt joints and 2 T-joints by dowelling in less than 2 hrs, (mind you I practiced a couple of times on scrap). The precision of the joints is just as good or better than any M & T joints I've been able to do.
The DowelMax is 100% guaranteed returnable by the owner & inventor himself.
With this device I will never consider M & T's again, and as a matter of fact, my biscuit joiner will get a lot less work and may be up for sale soon. I haven't done any face frames with it, but would have no hesitation in using the DowelMax if the occasion ever presented itself.
I have no connection etc. etc. etc...

[Jim Becker]

I just can't bring myself to use it on face frames. It's those ugly holes. I know there are plugs for them, but still they are ugly.

I'm confused, Mack. I use pocket screws for face frames exclusively and I don't know a single cabinet that I've ever been able to see the pocket screw holes on the back of them. If you mean to put the face frames on the cabinet, do the holes on the outside of the cabinet, not the inside where they would be visible and for end units, plan for a finished panel to cover the interior carcass.

[Mack Cameron]

I'm confused, Mack. I use pocket screws for face frames exclusively and I don't know a single cabinet that I've ever been able to see the pocket screw holes on the back of them. If you mean to put the face frames on the cabinet, do the holes on the outside of the cabinet, not the inside where they would be visible and for end units, plan for a finished panel to cover the interior carcass.:) Hi Jim; I guess there are 2 of us confused then, because your answer is confusing to me.
Is it because I am thinking of the rails and stiles in door construction, rather than the face frame that goes around the cabinet itself that the door closes against. (If that doesn't confuse you, nothing will). If that's the case, I guess it's me that's confused rather than you!:o

[Jim Hager]

One of the forum members has a neat little pocket hole jig device that he's gonna begin to offer for sale before long. He sent me one to try it out and give him some feed back on. I have reviewed the tool to my satisfaction and I find it to be a great little machine. It uses a 1 hp router to run the pocket holes. He's got his hands full right now with the collapse of his shop but you should contact Steve Clardy. His little machine is simple as can be and works much like the porter cable pocket hole machine but for a whole lot less money. If you send him an e-mail I'll bet he'll respond with an e-mail of the instruction sheet so you can see how it works. It's a bit more costly than the kreg 3 but you've got a lot easier way to work pocket holes too.

[Jim Becker]

Mack, yes, I was speaking about the rails and stiles on the face frame, not the doors. That said, I just did two cabinet doors with pocket screws and would do it again. They went together fast and perfectly square. Yes, the holes need to be dealt with, but they are only visible when the door is open...briefly in most cases. But I can certainly understand that would be a personal concern. I wouldn't do this on furniture, but cabinetry...I'd do it again in a heart-beat!

The good news is that there are so many methods available to build the doors. Dowels are certainly an option (as are biscuits). Typically, I've used coped joints made at the router table or table saw if they are simple groove and tenon.

[Mack Cameron]

Mack, yes, I was speaking about the rails and stiles on the face frame, not the doors. That said, I just did two cabinet doors with pocket screws and would do it again. They went together fast and perfectly square. Yes, the holes need to be dealt with, but they are only visible when the door is open...briefly in most cases. But I can certainly understand that would be a personal concern. I wouldn't do this on furniture, but cabinetry...I'd do it again in a heart-beat!

The good news is that there are so many methods available to build the doors. Dowels are certainly an option (as are biscuits). [quote]Typically, I've used coped joints made at the router table or table saw if they are simple groove and tenon.Hi again Jim; Yes I've used coped joints. A concern expressed to me one time was that the tongue on the cope is only 3/8" long and is not strong enough. That's debatable in my opinion, but a 1 1/2" dowel (from the DowelMax) can be used on that joint to allay any fears of the joint not being strong enough.
Nice talking with you!:)

[Joe Trotter]

I just purchased the R3 from woodpeckers. When it arrives I will give it the torture test.

[Ted Miller]

I picked up the Kreg 3 whole entire package at the last show I was at and I could not be happier, I can assemble cabinets so fast its almost not fun making them any more, I may start selling off my clamps, lol...

[Homer Faucett]

I use the Kreg Rocket jig (as said, it's about $50 for the kit), but just picked up the jig itself and bit from Kreg as a return item for $20. With a vice grip style clamp, it is very handy. Other than dust collection, I don't see why I would want to upgrade to the K3, as I use the jig on a lot of bulky items that would seem to make the little clamping station unweildy for my purposes.

I can't call myself an expert in pocket hole technology, but I've put a few thousand pocket screws in over the past two years, and find it's my most used jig. I'm very happy with it.

[Mike Buelow]

I have the mini (single hole) jig that you clamp down with your own C-vise grip. It came with the drill bit and collar at rockler for about $20.

I love what it does and I honestly don't know how they sell so many of the $100++ kits, as this thing does everything I need.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I'm just an amateur hobbyist but love the K3 (~$75). One day I'm going to get the mini (or what ever it is called) because there were a few times I could have used it in a location with limited space.

[Robert Mickley]

I love my k2000 dearly. It's great for quick assembly of shop jigs.

My 2 complaints Considering the cost
1 they could use Vise grip brand locking plyers.
2 they could use square drive bits with the hardened tips.

But I still love it :D

[Allen Bookout]

One of the forum members has a neat little pocket hole jig device that he's gonna begin to offer for sale before long. He's got his hands full right now with the collapse of his shop but you should contact Steve Clardy.
I'll bet it is going to be a while before he can mess with it. You sure got that right about having his hands full. When he does offer it for sale I wonder how we can find out about it. Sounds interesting.

[Jim Hager]

I'll bet it is going to be a while before he can mess with it. You sure got that right about having his hands full. When he does offer it for sale I wonder how we can find out about it. Sounds interesting.

Steve will be playing catch up for some time I imagine but he has the product developed and it works like a charm. Easy to use and probably a bit faster than the K3 because the router works faster than a hand drill. He has the instructions package complete too.

I plan to do a review on the tool once his shop is back in order so that I might be able to help him make known his little invention. I plan to take some pictures and work it pretty hard next week when I do a set of face frames for a job I've got coming up. I use a Kreg forman but $900 is a whole lot more money than he's gonna ask for his.