Glue Maple to MDF - Your Preference?

[glenn bradley]

I need to attach a maple rail to an MDF router table top. I will cut a rabbet into to rear edge of the top to accept the maple. The purpose of this is to provide a rail that I can put threaded inserts into. These inserts will align with the bolt pattern in my TS ext. wing.

The attachment at this seam is just to keep the top snug against the wing. The table will be supported and leveled via a floor standing cabinet. So, minimal downward or lateral stress will be on this joint during router table use.

Currently the wing holes are 3/4" from the top surface. This puts my connection point at the bottom edge of the 3/4" RT top. This is why I'll rabbet the maple in from the bottom surface of the RT top; the inserts will be in the maple and the top will be glued to the maple, eh?

In the pic the RT top is upside down but I think you get the picture (no pun intended). I'm thinking Gorilla glue but, maybe PVA is adequate(?). I appeal to the immense knowledge base that is Sawmill Creek . . . your thoughts?

[Jamie Buxton]

In my experience, polyurethane glue is no stronger than PVA.

Glue joints to MDF are not super-strong. The glue holds fine, but the MDF rips apart near the joint. Use screws with the threads in the maple, and the heads on the other side of the MDF. Glue wouldn't hurt, but the screws would be the primary structural strength.

[Lori Kleinberg]

Hi Glenn,

I used Titlebond III on the cabinets I made for my garage. It has been several years, and I don't see any weaking of the joint. By the way at least one of the cabinets is filled to capacity with quart cans of paint, stain, polyurthene and assorted other chemicals. The cabinets are hung on french cleats and look as good as new.

[Mack Cameron]

Hi Glen; Lepage's Carpenter's Glue (PVA) has a sheer strength approaching 4000 lbs. No need for anything any stronger, if there is such a glue. I assume you won't be using this table in moisture conditions, so no need for Gorilla Glue or Titebond III.

[Scott Vigder]

What Jamie said.

I prefer to use pocket hole screws every chance I get. I love the positive contact between the screwhead and the driver bit so I can precisely drive screws to exact lenghts. When the screw tip rests in MDF or plywood, I use the coarse threaded screws. And don't forget to countersink the hole to keep that screwhead below the surface.

[glenn bradley]

Pocket holes not possible due to surrounding structure. Titebond has always served me well. Sounds like I'll stick with that. I'll pre coat teh MDF to avoid over absorbtion and a starved joint. Thanks all!

[Ben Grunow]

How about another piece of wood glued/screwed to the first to form an "L" so there is more surface area for the wood to MDF joint?

[John Fry]

Glenn,

I do a lot of veneered table tops and MDF is my substrate of choice. I generally use a mitered, solid wood frame, edge glued to the veneered top and I use PVA (titebond II) and have never had one fail.

Your application may have more of a structural stress factor, but MDF really takes glue well and I doubt you need anything beyond PVA.

[glenn bradley]

John F, thanks, that about nails it (no pun intended, again). The low to no-stress for this joint and the info from the folks here has been very reassuring. The Creek is great for when I think I've got the right idea but just need that little bit of backup or correction. Thanks to all again!