Scraper Video

[Philip Wong]

I just got a scraper.

In order to learn how to sharpen them (after visiting countless web pages about sharpening scrapers), I found videos demonstrating the method of sharpening a scraper.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/087/videos/sharpening-a-scraper/
http://www.woodartistry.com/video/full_scraper_512.mov

I still can't get beautiful shavings like the woodartistry video, so if anyone could give me some pointers in the Austin, TX area, that would be greatly appreciated.

[John Gregory]

my tip.....practice, practice, practice..... Sometimes mine works like the shopnotes video and sometimes they don't. I am still working on consistency. A well tuned scraper is a nice tool do use. David Marks has some instructions on his web site about sharping scrapers. His show was the first place I had ever seen one used.

[glenn bradley]

The video shows the filing step to be rather quick, which it should be (sharp file and all that). What is not emphasized but gives me better results is to be sure I've flattened the existing (worn) edge so that the side to edge relationship is 90* without knicks or rounded over spots. You don't have to file the pee-wad out of it but don't be afraid to remove the worn edge either. Just experience (which is brief).

[Harley Lewis]

Phillip, I had a dickens of a time with sharpening scrapers until I figured out the most critical part of sharpening is the jointing of the scraper. The edge has to be flat and square, and then when burnished it makes a nice burr. I use a piece of 8/4 oak to keep the scraper square with the file. This method gets the scraper edge filed flat and true.

Harley
Harley

[Larry Rose]

I agree with John, when you get it right they are amazing tools. If they aren't just right, they're next to useless. I'm ashamed to say, after using them for years they are still hit or miss for me. Keep trying. Also, I've that some of them just will not hold an edge long enough to be usefull. I bought some El Cheepos and they are worthless.

[Rich Torino]

I got this for Christmas last year and it might seem like overkill but it sure made a difference with my scrapers. Woodcrafts sells them....

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

About 30 some odd years ago I was an illustration of how to use them. The picture (crude drawing really wiht captions) showed the scraper clamped between a couple pieces of some hard wood and the scraper just barely nosing out - like maybe t0.010" . the file rode the wood blocks as a steady. Then any excess along the edge was taken off with the file out of with the scraper the blocks. Then back into the blocks but sticking up higher the burnisher came into play.
It works flawlessly every time.

[Howard Acheson]

I believe that video has some faults. First, the file should be held the long way on the scraper, not across the scraper. The objective is to get the edge 90 degrees but also to keep the scraper edge straight from end to end.

Second, after honing with a stone, the scraper should be removed from the vise and layed flat on the bench near the edge of the bench. Then use you burnisher to rub along the side of the scraper near the edge. This starts the drawing out of the burr that it enlarged and refined when you burnish the top of the edge.

Here is something I wrote up years ago for a woodworking club newsletter.

Here is the way I was taught years ago to sharpen a hand scraper.

The first step is to put the scraper in a vise and using a fine file, file the edge perfectly perpendicular to the sides. Only a couple of strokes should be necessary and this is normally only done on a brand new scraper or one in bad shape. Next, using a fine oil stone, hold the scraper flat on the stone and remove any burr and smooth the sides near the edge. Holding the scraper straight up on edge, hone the edge and then lightly remove the burr. There is a tendency for scrapers to dig into a soft waterstone so I use an inexpensive fine oil stone. 400 Wet & Dry sandpaper lubricated with light oil or WD40 would work fine.

Burnishing is the next step. After filing and being sure the edge is flat and 90 degrees to the sides, put the scraper flat down on, and slightly back from, the edge of your bench. Run your burnisher along the flat side of the scraper pressing at so the burnisher is tight at the edge. This starts causing the edge corner to extend. This is a step that burnisher jigs can not do. Now put the scraper in your vise extending up about an inch. With your burnisher, run it along the edge at 90 degrees from the sides. Take 2 or three not too heavy strokes. This causes the corner raised in the first step to be bent toward the sides of the scraper. Then tip your burnisher up slightly (10-15 degrees--really makes no difference) and take two continuous, firm strokes on each edge. That's it.

You will have to try scraping at various angles to find the "sweet spot." As the scraper becomes dull, go through the same three burnishing steps as above. You can burnish 10-20 times before stoning or filing is again required. It takes less time than changing sandpaper in a sander.

I greatly favor a real burnisher for two reasons. First, it is really hard metal. Second, it it highly polished. Both of these attributes mean that there is little chance of galling (or tearing metal from) the scraper edge. Galling makes for less than a smooth cut. The smoother the burnisher, the smoother the burr. Screwdriver shafts may or may not be hard enough and the chrome plating will eventually deteriorate. Drill bits are also variable in hardness. Using a valve stem from a car engine that has been highly polished is an alternative but, why not just get a burnisher?

Finally, you can control the aggressiveness of the scraper by the way you file/stone it and how you use the burnisher to make the burr. Stoneing with a fine stone after filing and then using ligher pressure on your burnisher will give you a less aggressive but finer cutting burr and a smoother finish. I have a thicker scraper that I sharpen to an agressive cutting burr that I use for initial work (ie: ripple removal after jointing/planing) and then a set of thinner scrapers that I put a finer edge on for finish smoothing and cutting down and smoothing varnish finishes.

Finally, to prevent frustration, scrapers work best on hard woods. Using them on pine is generally unsuccessful.

For an excellent description with pictures get Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing."

[Jerry Olexa]

thanks guys....Good tips. Plan to get a scraper soon

[Don Boys]

Chris Schwarz, editor oo Popular Woodworking has done a video on scraper shapening for Lie-Nielson, but it won't be releasesd for a while. Keep an eye on the Lie-Nielson web site.

Don Boys

[Mark Singer]

Many people tend to roll the burr over to far and that keeps the edge from cutting well. I don't really like the Woodardestry video. They hone the face and that is really no necesary and can cause problems. The best way is to use a scraper often....then its automatic

[John Schreiber]

Those videos make it look so easy. I tried and gave up a while ago. Maybe I'll give it another try. Thanks for the instructions and the links.

[josh bjork]

Well, Howard just gave you enough info for another scraper video! It is easy to forget to dress the sides of the scraper. I think it keeps the burr from getting too long and floppy. I use a block of wood to keep the scraper vertical and run it on sandpaper stuck to a board most of the time. At least that is what I do most of the time when my results are good. I have tried many different ways but that is the best way I've found without buying stuff. Bowyers use scrapers a lot. They work best on hard woods in my experience.

[Bob Michaels]

Howie - can't find the scraper info in Flexner's book. Can you please give me a page no. Thanks.

[Jerry Dickens]

Howard, you need to do us a video on putting a edge on a scraper. You could post it on the web for us to use for a guide. Good idea.