WWII thin Kerf & Delta Table saw

[Richard Kagen]

Trying my best to develop as a woodworker, I find myself as perphaps a grade C sawdust maker.

I just picked up the Delta 36-682 10" Contractor's Table Saw w/1 CI Wing and 30" Biesemeyer Fence and Tableboard ($499 at rockler w/ a $50 gift card) which was a huge upgrade for me.

I decided to buy the Forrect WWII blade and went for the thin kerf since the Delta motor is only 1 1/2 hp. So, here are my questions:

1) Will the thin kerf blade work with the splitter?
2) Should I really have the (5" or 6") blade stabilzer is are those just wallet lightening accessories?

Thanks in advance for the help

[Jim W. White]

It should work fine with the splitter (which is not as thick as even a thin kerf blade)

I use thin kerf FREUDs quite a bit and have had no need for stabilizers. I'm assuming you will have no issues with the Forrest either.

No worries!

Jim in Idaho

[scott spencer]

My experience with stabilizers has been that they benefit the seller more than the user...I've never been able to see a difference.

The TK should be fine with that splitter...AFAIK, the stock blade is a TK, and is the right choice for that saw IMHO.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

If you're referring to the stock blade guard / splitter that comes with the saw, like Jim said, it's thin enough. However, that also means that it's not a true splitter, i.e., it doesn't actually keep the kerf open.

I highly recommend a good splitter. In my experience, an effective splitter and accurate saw alignment are more important factors for cut quality than the brand of blade. I use the Microjig splitter in conjunction with an overarm blade guard. The Shark Guard would be another good choice.

Splitters come in both regular and thin kerf versions, which brings us back full circle to the question of whether to use to use a TK blade. I used to use Freud TK blades on my contractor's saw and was happy with them. When I added the original MJ splitter, I went to full-kerf blades. Now that the MJ comes in a thin kerf version as well, I'll probably keep them both around.

[Hoa Dinh]

About blades, I recommend a full-kerf. I've used a 1 HP Craftsman and a 1.5 HP Delta before my current saw, and have never seen the need for a thin-kerf blade.

If you rip lumber thicker than 1", get a dedicate 24T rip blade.

Just like Scott, I found the so-called "stabilizers" benefit the sellers and do nothing for me.

About splitter, get a Delta Removable Splitter from The Saw Center (http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm) (Delta 1349941 $38.95, third item from the bottom of the table). As come, it can be used with thin-kerf blades. If you use full-kerf blade (or even if you use thin-kerf), make your own splitters. See mine here (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322156769).

I myself don't recommend the MJ splitter. It can't be used for bevel cuts, when you need a splitter the most.

[glenn bradley]

With the path you're on I have no doubt you'll lose the factory splitter and go to a ZCI with an MJ Splitter or the like soon enough. For now you're good. I use blade stabilizers with my TK blades on the TS because I got them free once upon a time. I don't really see a difference, it's just all my jigs and inserts are set for them now.

I don't use them on the CMS where blade deflection would be more expected (by me) and have no problems with TK blades. I do take my saw alignment to painful levels however and have been rewarded by the tools performance when properly cared for and fed.

[Bruce Page]

I agree with Hoa, I always ran full kerf's on my old Craftsman contractor saw and I never had any issues with them.
I have the Delta pop-in splitter on my Unisaw and highly recommend it.

[Tom Pritchard]

Trying my best to develop as a woodworker, I find myself as perphaps a grade C sawdust maker.

I just picked up the Delta 36-682 10" Contractor's Table Saw w/1 CI Wing and 30" Biesemeyer Fence and Tableboard ($499 at rockler w/ a $50 gift card) which was a huge upgrade for me.

I decided to buy the Forrect WWII blade and went for the thin kerf since the Delta motor is only 1 1/2 hp. So, here are my questions:

1) Will the thin kerf blade work with the splitter?
2) Should I really have the (5" or 6") blade stabilzer is are those just wallet lightening accessories?

Thanks in advance for the help

Hi Richard I've used the thin kerf Forrest WW II on my Sears 1 1/2 HP saw for a couple years now, and it works great! I have a home-made splitter, and the thin kerf has not presented a problem with the splitter.

I've never used a stabilizer, and have no problem with vibration. I think I would spend the money on a zero clearance insert before I would buy a blade stabilizer. Congrats on the new saw!!