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Dave Brandt
11-04-2003, 2:46 PM
OK, it is, but if I could find the archives I swear I wouldn't be asking it. I really don't want to spend $300+ on a router for the table, but I do want to spin some large panel raisers. I see the Hitachi MV12 for $159 at the Tool Crib. This seems to good to be true. I think I remember hearing good things about this router, but with the new DeWalt and Freud, I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated! db

Ed Falis
11-04-2003, 2:57 PM
The MV12 is a popular router for the table, and is a great deal at the price.

The DeWalt DW625 has also come down in price recently to the ~$230 range. I have one that I mostly use in the table. See http://www.toolseeker.com/PowerTools/Routers/DW625.asp?var1=DW625 for some sources.

- Ed

Dave Arbuckle
11-04-2003, 3:44 PM
M12V and Freud FT2000e are both great value for the router table, in my opinion. I chose Freud because the price was better at the time, and it included a adjustment knob that was extra cost on the Hitachi.

Dave

Jim Becker
11-04-2003, 4:29 PM
Dave, the M12V is a STEAL at $159...it's been almost three years since Amazon/Toolcrib had that price available, too. It's a good, solid router if you don't mind using a plunger in a table. (Some folks prefer fixed base routers in the table)

I'd buy one of these on principle if I hadn't already met my tool budget for the year!

Doug Olsen
11-04-2003, 7:27 PM
Dave,
I have two M12V's one is in my router table. Excellent routers and if I needed a third, it would be an M12V.

John Lucas discusses adaptation of the M12V into a router table on his website and here is the link.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm

I followed his lead except I left the springs inside the router when I adapted it to the table. In addition, I installed a "Router Raizer" ($89) and obtained a "bent wrench" ($15) both available from
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ although many woodworking retailers carry the router raizer.

The router raizer works extremely well and is much cheaper than others doing a similar job. The bent wrench is a very convenient tool for locking/unlocking the router collet for bit changes.

I highly recommend the M12V and the two "accessories" mentioned above. The $159 Amazon/Tool Crib price is a bargain!
Hope this is helpful.

Enjoy

Hoa Dinh
11-04-2003, 9:34 PM
I see the Hitachi MV12 for $159 at the Tool Crib. This seems to good to be true.

That was what I paid for it almost 5 years ago, and the thing is still running strong, dedicated to the router table. There may be something better out there, but not at that price.

The bent wrench can also be bought from www.woodpeck.com. I think the price is a bit less there.

Dave Brandt
11-05-2003, 9:11 AM
Doug,

Thanks so much for the info! That Lucas article is excellent. I think I'll also be following your advice on the bent wrench and router raizer. Wahoo, I'm gonna have a good Christmas. db

John Leech
11-05-2003, 2:35 PM
Bought the PC 7529 from tyler tool a few months ago for $159. Free shipping to. It is reconditioned, but I've had no problems with it.

John

Ed Falis
11-05-2003, 4:23 PM
Dave,

Another option you might want to compare to the Router Raizer is the Veritas bit jack, which is abou the same price: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=43039&category=1,43885&ccurrency=2&SID=

- Ed

Jim DeLaney
12-19-2004, 2:46 PM
Dave,
I have two M12V's one is in my router table. Excellent routers and if I needed a third, it would be an M12V.

John Lucas discusses adaptation of the M12V into a router table on his website and here is the link.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm

I followed his lead except I left the springs inside the router when I adapted it to the table. In addition, I installed a "Router Raizer" ($89) ...



I left the springs in mine, too. With the Router Raizer, the springs don't cause a problem. In fact, I think it makes the Raizer work more smoothly.

One other thing - not a modification, but a helpful hint if you typically leave the router in the table full time - a 35mm film canister fits perfectly over the collet to keep dirt and dust out of it. The black plastic cans (Kodak??) fit so snugly that you need to drill a small 'bleed hole' in them to relieve the suction when you try to remove it.