Using Drawer Slides With Inset Drawers - Is It A Nightmare?

[Jeff Wright]

In building our kitchen, I prefer the look of the inset door rather than an overlay style. I also want to use a high-quality drawer slide, one that prevents drawer slamming. Do any of you have experience installing slides like the Blum BluMotion Tanden undermount (the style not visible when the drawer is open) slides or the Accuride equivalent when using face frame construction with inset doors? While I realize inset drawers are a challenge to get their faces to fit their openings (leaving a nice even 1/16" space on all four sides of the drawer), does using these slides make the task a nightmare?

[chris fox]

I used the full extension, self closing Blum undermount slides when building a dresser. They werent cheap either, at the time I was really proud and would have spend anything to finish it off.
I had 6 drawers inset but not to a .063" gap, I used paint sticks to achieve the inset look for all the drawers. They are stout and keep the gap pretty consistant, even with side by side drawers extended...no touch.
I really spend alot of time reading and reviewing the instructions and made a did a test run before I figured out the best way for piece. The first one is always difficult but once a jig is made its alot easier. I had to fine tune them which was difficult and time consuming.

chris

[John Huber]

I have made six chests of drawers with inset drawers using Accuride slides on the sides of the drawers. As you say, inset drawers are a lot more challenging than overlay drawers, where the overlay can hide small deviations in dimensions in all planes. The trick is to mount the part of the slide on the carcass such that the plane of the drawer front is exactly aligned with the plane of the carcass front.

As the previous poster said, use a commercial jig or make one of your own. Take extra care to be sure your drawers are square in all three planes. Take extra care that the drawers are not oversize; otherwise they will bind and be difficult to correct; I leave an extra 1/32" gap on the width. Take extra care to be sure the part of the slide that mounts on the drawer is perpendicular to the drawer front. My preference is to mount the entire slide with the top edge flush to the top of the drawer carcass. Then dismount the outer portion of the slide and mount it to the carcass.

To maintain a consistent gap at the edges of the drawers, I use the milled basswood strips available at hobby stores as shims. They come in increments of 1/32" thickness and a variety of widths.

Be patient and good luck!

[Jim Becker]

I only build with inset drawers and doors and have had zero issue with slides when I've used them. (kitchen) it's mostly a matter of proper drawer sizing. It's also easier to manage if you are doing false fronts.

[Travis Porter]

Ditto on Jim's comments. False fronts make it a lot easier.

[Steve Dewey]

I'm going to piggyback on this discussion (nicer than Hijack). I'm working on designs for several built in units for an attic media room. Attached is the "bar". I'm planning false fronts, but would really appreciate some more detailed information from you "experts". Are undermount slides easier? Techiniques for getting things aligned etc.

[Jeff Wright]

I only build with inset drawers and doors and have had zero issue with slides when I've used them. (kitchen) it's mostly a matter of proper drawer sizing. It's also easier to manage if you are doing false fronts.

Jim, do you attach the false inset drawer fronts in a manner that allows you to adjust their position ever so slightly relative to the drawer box . . . maybe a slotted hole for the attaching screws?

[Jeff Wright]

Attached is [an illustration of] the "bar". I'm planning false fronts, but would really appreciate some more detailed information from you "experts".

Steve, you have the top and middle rail broken up into individual pieces. Would those rails maybe look better as one continuous piece running left to right with the "inner styles" cut to fit between the two rails. Same could be said for the lower rail as well. Just a thought.

[glenn bradley]

The only time I had trouble was when I aligned the drawers with the carcase on it's back to make it easier to work on. Everything lined up great while the case was on it's back but once stood upright, gravity and/or drawer load caused my (probably too) close tolerances to go askew. I now use false fronts for utility type drawers (kitchen, bath, shop) whether they're inset or overlay. For finer work I still use the front as a construction piece of the drawer but, the same rule applies for me.

you can spend money or time but, you're gonna spend.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, do you attach the false inset drawer fronts in a manner that allows you to adjust their position ever so slightly relative to the drawer box . . . maybe a slotted hole for the attaching screws?

I utilize very thin double stick tape with shims under and on the sides of the drawer front to do the initial placement. Then I clamp things, drill for screws (generally only two screws laterally as that still allows for seasonal movement cross-grain) and make the permanent placement. Do be sure to calculate the wood movement for your particular species (formulas in a recent issue of Fine Woodworking) so you size the gaps top and bottom appropriately. "When" during the year you build will affect that sizing. (Same goes for door panels which was the original intent of the mentioned article)

[Glen Surwillo]

Hello all! This is my first post. I have been reading regularly for awhile now but just recently registered. This post really came in handy because I am building a similar project. This is only my second project ever. The first project I made was a coffee table about 6 months ago. Not bad, but I learned alot and I will only get better.

Here is first Project.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/FinishedTable001.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/FinishedTable004.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/FinishedTable002.jpg

The project I am working on now is a wall of built ins. They will be Oak Ply, QS Red Oak face frames, etc. I will be doing inset doors on this project and just received the accuride self closing slides. Here are some pictures so far. I am doing this out of my garage. (Just mobile machines, Not as nice as some of your shops)

My plan so far:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/BuiltIns-1.jpg

First case built. I am using 3/4 ply for the drawers as well. Anyone see a problem with this?

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/IMG_0531.jpg

Face frame made with pocket skrews
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/IMG_0528.jpg

My little garage shop:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/IMG_0527.jpg

Cutting Ply
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i255/chicagoglen/IMG_0525.jpg

I am learning everyday from this forum. I hope this post was not to long. I look forward to asking lots of questions and learning from you all.

Thanks,

Glen