SawStop Electrical Connection Question

[Glen Blanchard]

My 3hp SawStop is due to arrive in town around Wednesday of next week, and I want to be sure I have all my ducks in a row for its arrival. As I understand it, it comes without the pigtail.

My current saw (a 3 hp Jet cabinet saw) has a 220v twist–lock plug at the end of the pigtail. It, then, plugs into a 10’ extension cord. I plan on employing the same arrangement with the SS. I opened up the twist-lock plug (both on the Jet pig-tail as well as the extension cord) and they are both wired thusly:

Y = Black
X = White
G = Green

Here are my questions regarding the SawStop……


Does the SS use these same color designations?
Are the color designations easily discernable – that is, can the color designations be readily seen and identified at the site of the pigtail interface?
Do I need an electrician to hook up the pigtail to the SS, or is this something I can easily handle on my own?Thanks very much. Looking forward to moving that black beast into the center of my shop.

[Timothy Aiken]

The directions are very clear. you can do it yourself. I did it without any trouble just following the directions. Download the sawstop owners manual and you will see that the directions are clear. Ask any questions after looking at the manual.
Tim

[Mike Heidrick]

We can do it together. I Picked up my CB51230 tonight - the 5HP 220V single phase Sawstop. Just got it in the shop a few minutes ago and now I am beat. We had a motorized pallet truck at Woodcraft to load it into a covered trailer and then my Deere 3320 took it from teh trailer to the shop. Tired now. I will crack the crate tomorrow and take pictures to help you if you want them.

Get your ducks in a row - this is a HEAVY HEAVY beast of a crate about to show up at your place!

Mike

[Glen Blanchard]

I will crack the crate tomorrow and take pictures to help you if you want them.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I would be most interested in photos of the electrical connection area. If I am reading the schematic correctly, it references black, white and green leads - with the green being ground. Now these are the same colors that I have in my pigtail to my Jet cabinet saw. I am wondering if I connect the twist-lock plug via the pigtail with white-white, green-green, and black-black, if it will be wired correctly. I'd also like to know how easy it is to see the designations for hook-up for these colors in the saw itself.

[Mike Heidrick]

Will be glad to take the pictures.

BTW, You will be perfectly fine with white to white and black to black (both the white and black are hot on 220 single phase) and ground to ground (green to green).

Mike

[Travis Lavallee]

You should just worry about connecting green to green (ground). The white and black can be interchanged in a 220v situation like this because there is no neutral involved.

[Glen Blanchard]

You should just worry about connecting green to green (ground). The white and black can be interchanged in a 220v situation like this because there is no neutral involved.

Thanks Travis. That is what I thought I read somewhere, but am wanting to be as careful as possible. Sounds very simple as long as the SawStop clearly designates which of the three terminals is ground - which I must assume it does.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Here's a clip from the manual. Couldn't ask for a clearer diagram!

[Glen Blanchard]

Here's a clip from the manual. Couldn't ask for a clearer diagram!

Thanks Kent. Yes, I have downloaded the pdf and have seen that schematic. I don't know, however, how clearly these posts are marked in the saw itself, and was just wanting to be assured that the connection posts would be discernable my a non-electrician such as myself.

[Mike Heidrick]

Thanks Kent. Yes, I have downloaded the pdf and have seen that schematic. I don't know, however, how clearly these posts are marked in the saw itself, and was just wanting to be assured that the connection posts would be discernable my a non-electrician such as myself.

So here is what they look like. I installed the wires with the electrical tape. Get yourself some crimp in ring terminals sized for your power wire. I used the terminals sized for 10-12ga wire myself. White to White, Black to Black, Green to Green. The white and black connet at the bottom of the connection ports just like on the diagram. The ground green connects via the same screw as the others.

[Glen Blanchard]

So here is what they look like.

Great Mike. Thanks for your trouble. Now tell us your first impressions. Fit? Finish? Needed to be tuned? Heavy?

Guess you don't have to respond to that last one. :p

[Glen Blanchard]

Get yourself some crimp in ring terminals sized for your power wire.

Mike, Will those ring terminals fit through the access into the junction box on the saw? IOW, can those ring terminals be crimped/soldered before the cord is run into the junction box on the saw, or can they only be crimped/soldered once the bare wires have been run into the box?

[Mike Heidrick]

Heavy - Nope - Not with the right leverage :)

I have the 5hp version of the Sawstop. Holy Sawmasters that is a crazy crazy saw. But it is SOOO quiet - Makes a strong Whirrr . I need to test it out more. BTW - there was a post here (or at woodnet) about blade brand sizes and riving knives. For what it is worth this saw was made for a Forrest WWII blade. It is the exact same size as the Sawstop blade but much better quality.

[Mike Heidrick]

The junction box has a friction fit tube access hole like a plastic junction box would use. It was easiest for me to do it after the wires were through the connector. It may work ahead of time though. I would just do it one the saw is hear. electrical is one of the last steps for setup.

[Homer Faucett]

Okay, this peeves me a bit. I wrestle a 650 lb box off the trailer by myself, set it up on the mobile base with the help of my father-in-law, and find out that this expensive saw does not come with a power cord?

Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Is it common to have a cabinet saw sold without being wired? What are you guys using for your wire from the saw's power box to your male plug-in?

[Joe Jensen]

Okay, this peeves me a bit. I wrestle a 650 lb box off the trailer by myself, set it up on the mobile base with the help of my father-in-law, and find out that this expensive saw does not come with a power cord?

Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Is it common to have a cabinet saw sold without being wired? What are you guys using for your wire from the saw's power box to your male plug-in?

Not that ridiculous. There are choices in connectors at that amperage rating, regular plug, twist lock, etc. How long should the cord be? It took like 10 minutes to wire up the saw, no big deal. I went to HD and bought the plug and wire while the saw was being delivered. Got a cord that is the perfect length for me, and a plug that fits the recepticle I had.

[Homer Faucett]

Not that ridiculous. There are choices in connectors at that amperage rating, regular plug, twist lock, etc. How long should the cord be? It took like 10 minutes to wire up the saw, no big deal. I went to HD and bought the plug and wire while the saw was being delivered. Got a cord that is the perfect length for me, and a plug that fits the recepticle I had.

There may be choices, but it could have easily come with the standard 20 amp plug so that you had the option of using that one or changing it out if you are dead set on using a twist lock plug. You shouldn't be expected to wire up a saw, especially at this price point.

What are you using for the flexible cord from the power box of the saw to the male plug? Just standard 10-3 wire?

[Mike Heidrick]

Okay, this peeves me a bit. I wrestle a 650 lb box off the trailer by myself, set it up on the mobile base with the help of my father-in-law, and find out that this expensive saw does not come with a power cord?

Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Is it common to have a cabinet saw sold without being wired? What are you guys using for your wire from the saw's power box to your male plug-in?

10ga 3 conductor flexible wire from Menards or Home depot will work great. You can see it in my picture above.

I have purchased a Delta 12" jointer and 5hp shaper, and the 5hp Sawstop and all three did not come with any kind of power cord or plug. I think it is expected in this class of machine. Sawstop also sells a 3,5,and 7.5 hp machine so I would guess there is no way they would send a different plug for each machine. Every shop has their own wire management requirements. It is easy to do and we can help you if needed. The manual is very clear about how to hook up your machine.

[Homer Faucett]

Thanks, Mike. I picked up an extra male connector that will fit the 25 amp outlet I will be using "just in case" the saw did not come pre-wired when I picked up my 25 amp breaker on the way home with the saw. Maybe this is typical for this "class" of machine, but it is certainly the first machine that I have bought that does not at least provide some power cord, even if it is able to be wired for either 115 or 230.

It is certainly the first machine that I have that specifically states that the machine must be direct wired. Obviously, no one here is direct wiring their machine if they are placing a connector on a flexible cord. My washer/dryer stack and oven pull more amps and don't require me to direct wire them.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, many types if equipment do not have a flexible cord for one very good reason.

In Canada, flexible cord is only allowed where there is relative motion, or the machinery is meant to be portable.

Many shops bolt their machinery to the floor, once that happens there isn't relative motion or portabilty and then the wiring has to be BX, conduit, Teck etc.

Regards, Rod.

[Bob Michaels]

I also questioned the instructions reciting "hard wiring" the saw. I called SS and was told that it is not necessary to hard wire the saw and that 10/3 SJO cord is fine. In fact, SS said that the 2 saws they have in their shop are not hard wired. I also like the fact that I can just unplug the twist lock plug when changing blades, instead of bending down to the floor to turn off the disconnect switch. I like the positive feed back of seeing the plug actually unplugged before I get near the blade. That's what I'm used to on all my machinery.

[Homer Faucett]

I got it hooked up with no problems. I had to first install a new 230 volt circuit, then wire up the saw. While there may be a requirement in Canada that all machinery be hardwired only, that's just not the case in the U.S., and I still think it would have been nice to have had a flexible cord wired on the saw. Frankly, at the price paid, I don't think it should even be a question.

[Don Bullock]

Homer, I fully agree and I'm planning on asking my retailer to install one on my saw before it is delivered.

[Mike Heidrick]

Maybe this is typical for this "class" of machine, but it is certainly the first machine that I have bought that does not at least provide some power cord, even if it is able to be wired for either 115 or 230.

You just graduated into a whole new class of machine my friend. Congrats btw!!

[Homer Faucett]

You just graduated into a whole new class of machine my friend. Congrats btw!!

Thanks, Mike! I do have to say that the saw cut very well right out of the box . . . even with the stock blade. When I install my Freud, I expect it will be even better. It took me a few weekends of fiddling with my contractor saw to get it up to the level of cut that this saw does right out of the box. The exta hp is nice, too.

[Joe Jensen]

There may be choices, but it could have easily come with the standard 20 amp plug so that you had the option of using that one or changing it out if you are dead set on using a twist lock plug. You shouldn't be expected to wire up a saw, especially at this price point.

What are you using for the flexible cord from the power box of the saw to the male plug? Just standard 10-3 wire?

I"m using 10/3. They had two different jacket thicknesses at the hardware store. I am using the thicker jacket version..joe

[Brian Penning]

I know that this is an old post but my saw is en route to me and I'm still not clear on the electrical hookup.
1. Do you have to use ring terminals attached to the wire ends? If so, how did you guys "crimp" them? Pair of pliers?
2. Can't one simply wrap the wire ends around the applicable terminal screws? My General cab saw is wired this way.

Thanks in advance.

[Mike Heidrick]

Hi Brian.

A wire crimper is a very cheap tool and can be bought for about $5-$10 and sometimes in kits that have the ring terminals with them. If not ring terminals are very cheap at about $2 for 10. Get the yellow jacketed ones. They work for 10ga-12ga wire sizes.
The crimper looks similar to this but comes in many different styles:
http://www.beachtradingco.com/catalog/KDT2162.jpg

Here are the spades:
http://www.trucktunes.com/images/ebay/65670.jpg

For the simple low cost I would not wrap the wire around the terminals. In fact I would go overkill and crimp and solder the connections - but that is me.

Let us know if you have any more questions. I will gladly help you out.

[Bill White]

Okay, this peeves me a bit. I wrestle a 650 lb box off the trailer by myself, set it up on the mobile base with the help of my father-in-law, and find out that this expensive saw does not come with a power cord?

Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Is it common to have a cabinet saw sold without being wired? What are you guys using for your wire from the saw's power box to your male plug-in?


Guess that you have not bought a clothes dryer recently.
Bill

[Brian Penning]

Well the beast is in(will post photo proof soon) and was easy to connect up. Maybe too easy?
I find it sort of strange that the cable simply feeds up through the large threaded bushing and there's no method to secure/clamp the cable, or seal it either for that matter.
It's only the crimped terminals that secure the cable to the saw?

[Bill White]

Okay, this peeves me a bit. I wrestle a 650 lb box off the trailer by myself, set it up on the mobile base with the help of my father-in-law, and find out that this expensive saw does not come with a power cord?

Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Is it common to have a cabinet saw sold without being wired? What are you guys using for your wire from the saw's power box to your male plug-in?

Washing machines, ranges don't come wired either.
Bill

[Joe Jensen]

Well the beast is in(will post photo proof soon) and was easy to connect up. Maybe too easy?
I find it sort of strange that the cable simply feeds up through the large threaded bushing and there's no method to secure/clamp the cable, or seal it either for that matter.
It's only the crimped terminals that secure the cable to the saw?

I"m pretty sure that there was some cable clamp when I hooked mine up, or I added one. You definitely want a cable clamp of some sort...joe

[Homer Faucett]

Guess that you have not bought a clothes dryer recently.
Bill


Washing machines, ranges don't come wired either.
Bill

Bill, I have bought a clothes dryer, washing machine, and a range . . . all before I bought this saw.

First, none of them were half the price of this saw.

Second, the retailer threw in the connector for free (and the connector was specified for the appliance in the owner manual).

Third, none of those appliances you listed had an instruction manual that stated that the appliance HAD to be hard wired. (Remember the part where you quoted me?)
Further, the instruction manual tells you that it should be direct wired. This is ridiculous. My Delta contractor saw came wired.

Fourth, the owner's manual goes as far as devoting an entire page to "electrical connection", but gives absolutely no recommendation as to breaker size/wire size combination for a given model. All of my other appliances gave these specifications.

So, Bill, I will stand beside my original comment, now a year after it was originally made. Sawstop should either pre-wire (so what if you have to take the cord off or install a different plug if you have a different plug arrangement in your home?) or specify recommendations on breakers/wires for their saw. Further, if their tech line is going to tell you that you don't need to hard wire the saw when you call them, then this should not be stated as a requirement in the owner manual. I'm not sure where your beef is in my statement, as your Grizzly saw came pre-wired.

[Steve Gass]

Brian,

The cord should exit the small metal terminal box through a plastic strain relief screwed into a hole in the bottom of the terminal box. The strain relief should have a rubber grommet and a hand-tightened plastic ring that you turn to squeeze the grommet and hold the cord in place. This should grab the cord securely enough that a moderate tug should not move it in the strain relief and shouuld prevent any pulling on the crimp-on terminals. When I saw your post I wondered if maybe the strain relief ring/gromet might have come loose and fallen off of the plastic body part. If so, let us know and we'll get you a new one. You don't want to have the one of the wires get pulled out of the ring terminals and be floating around exposed!

Steve Gass
SawStop

[Brian Penning]

Thank-you Steve. I did call your Cust. serv(Jason) and they are sending me the missing strain relief.