How do you treat and protect your table saw top.

[Tom Henry]

Looking at the products out there, I wouldn't know one from the other so....ask the experts!;)

[Jim O'Dell]

I use the Boshield (spelling?), got it from Woodcraft. Then after it dries good for a few days, I top coat with Johnson's paste wax. Jim.

[Lynn Kasdorf]

I use paste wax liberally around the shop. Boeshield is good too. I think it is basically paraffin in solution with a solvent.

Along similar lines, I also have a bunch of metalworking tools (lathe, mills, precision whatnots). These can develop a coating of rust very easily since I am too cheap to run a dehumidifier in my barn.

I find that keeping air moving with a fan is a huge help.

In drawers of precision whatnots, I put a piece of camphor in there. It smells like vaporub and prevents corrosion.

A machinist buddy of mine coats his machines with "fogging oil". This is an aerosol oil that is intended for winterizing engines. You run the engine and spray this into the air intake until the engine stalls. Put away for winter.

He says this oil is great for metalworking machines- spray a light mist and it doesn't get gummy. It wipes off when you need to clean up, and prevents corrosion in the meantime. Of course, this won't be right for woodworking machines.

Wax. No WD40!

[Aaron Beaver]

I use the Boshield (spelling?), got it from Woodcraft. Then after it dries good for a few days, I top coat with Johnson's paste wax. Jim.

Same here, do it all my tools, drill press, jointer/planer, bandsaw, etc.

[John Miliunas]

I almost exclusively use Renaissance Wax on all my iron (and finished wood projects:D ). Easy on, easy off, no silicone, etc... A bit expensive at the onset but, lasts a real long time! :) :cool:

[Steve Canada]

I just use past wax.

I live in a pretty dry climate. I just refurbished an old Rockwell / Beaver 6200 TS, that had been sadly neglected for years. It had hardly any rust on it due to the climate. Good for tools! Bad for noses & hands!

[David Giles]

Corrosion X initial treatment followed by Boeshield twice yearly plus paste wax regularly. And I still get some rust. But I live in the tropics where mold is our state flower.

[Al Willits]

Johnson & Johnson wax works for me, also use it on my torsion table, keeps the glue from sticking to it.

Al

[glenn bradley]

I also use paste wax but SoCal inland valley areas are pretty moderate weather-wise.

[Allen Bookout]

Boeshield T9 (Home Depot, West Marine or good hardware store) and overcoated with Johnson's Paste Wax.

[Steve Canada]

So.....

If I wanted to try our the bostik Topcoat, I have to remove the past wax?

[Gary Whitt]

I use CRC Table Guard.

No rubbing, no buffing....

Just spray, wait a few seconds and go!

[John Ricci]

JPW for me with TopCote for smaller things like plunge router tubes, chisels, idle sawblades etc.

[Byron Sellers]

Top Coat about once a year and the rest of the time it's baby powder spread around with a eraser.

[chris fox]

I started to using paste wax, but here in AZ we dont have to worry about rust;)

[Jerry Olexa]

Johnson paste wax. Works great!!

[Brian Hale]

Like John, i use Renaissance Wax on everything, machines, hand planes, squares, etc, including the furniture.

Brian :)

[Jeff Weight]

Bioshield is a GREAT product that I've been using for the last 10 years without a problem.

J&J or any paste wax will work, but you have to repeat the application to often for my liking.

I tried Top Coat when it was first introduced years ago. It didn't work for me and my saw rusted. Maybe it's better now.

Kitty Wax... WOW that's an old one, was great stuff to but I believe it's no longer made.

FYI, the HTC machine covers work GREAT! I have one on my saw and the difference between it an the other tool tops is night and day. I highly recommend them.

[Noah Katz]

"Boeshield is good too. I think it is basically paraffin in solution with a solvent."

If that were the case wouldn't it rub off onto the wood and give finishing problems?

Also, would paste wax stick to paraffin?

Thanks

[Allen Bookout]

"Boeshield is good too. I think it is basically paraffin in solution with a solvent."

If that were the case wouldn't it rub off onto the wood and give finishing problems?

Also, would paste wax stick to paraffin?

Thanks

I really do not know about all of that but I use a very small amount of Boeshield T9 and then wipe it gently with a clean cloth which does not leave much residue. Then I put the wax over the top of that. Works for me but there may be a better way. I'm always willing to change to a better method or procuct.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I use Johnson's paste wax. Humidity in Indiana gets pretty high in the summer. Never had a problem.

[Doug Shepard]

Top Coat about once a year and the rest of the time it's baby powder spread around with a eraser.

That's kinda what I do, except I put the TC on pretty much everytime after it gets any significant use, then the baby powder, then store the crosscut sled on the saw as well as couple other pieces of MDF to keep all the CI covered. It's the same thing on my other machines except HTC tool covers instead of the sled. I still have to spend maybe 5-10 mins a year on each tool with WD40 and steel wool, but I've got almost all the corrosion solved.

[Lou Morrissette]

I live about 3/4 mile from the atlantic and have very good results from Johnson's paste wax maybe twice a year. No finish problems and no rust.

Lou

[Gary Herrmann]

Mostly wax, but I tried Fluid Film and like it.

[Terek Johnson]

Bostick Top Cote... spray it on, wipe it off, and rock n' roll.
I put it on the soles of my hand planes as well (uh oh... should I be telling this in the Neanderthal section?).
I'd love to get my hands on some Kitty wax, that stuff was awsome, but for some strange reason it's no longer available in the states.

[Kent Cartwright]

Boestick Top Cote for me too. I used paste wax for a while, but it constantly needed refreshing.

Kent

[Howard Acheson]

Wood Magazine and American Woodworker did a test a couple of years ago and Boehield T9 was the only product that provided significant long term protection.

[Jim Becker]

I just use simple paste wax...whatever I have in the cabinet. Usually, that's about the only Minwax container in my shop. Works fine and I've had the wax for about 7 years now...ie, cheap.

[Alfred Clem]

Here in central AZ, at 4,500 ft. altitude, relative humidity ranges around 5 to 10 per cent -- very low. Johnson's wax seems to work well -- my table saw glistens like a surgical instrument after several years in my garage/shop. I like the idea of Renaissance wax, however -- it resists fingerprints, probably a source of moisture and rust. For other hand and garden tools, I spray with WD40 after cleaning. No rust on them after years and years of use.

[Eddie Darby]

I started out with Top Coat which has done a good job, and have now switched to Boeshield T-9 after the positive tests results posted in the magazines.