Honing Guides

[Clint Jones]

Can anyone recommend a good honing guide for sharpening my plane blades. I have 3 diamond stones 180G 260G and 360G that I have been using with water as a lubricant. I have gotten pretty good at getting my blades sharp but I would really like to get a very precise angle. I am looking to get a 25 to 35 degree bevel. I have been told that guides were really not needed but I would really like to see how much of a difference it will make. I have heard Veritas and Stanley make good guides. Does anyone have any suggestions????

[Ian Smith]

I use a Veritas MkII for my plane blades and I like it a lot. It is fairly accurate and it is quick and easy to use. I reckon the Veritas Skew Registration Jig is also a worthwhile addition if you have any skew blades to hone. It works well with my LN 140's.

For my bevel edge chisels I tend to use an Eclipse honing guide. I reckon the Eclipse guide holds the chisels more firmly than the Veritas, particularly the narrower ones less than about 1/4". The Veritas works OK with chisels, I just prefer the Eclipse.

[Gary Herrmann]

2nd vote for the LV Mk II. I use it for irons and chisels.

[Ken Bryant]

Third vote for the LV Mk II. Works great.

[Mike Henderson]

Fourth vote for LV MK II. I use if for sharpening both chisels and plane blades.

[Added note - I've never used my MK II on a diamond stone - only on water stones. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work on a diamone stone, however.

Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can comment, but I find diamond stones to be a bit coarse, even the fine ones. You might look at a fine water stone to put the final finish on your blades. But I've only used diamond stones for flattening chisels and plane blades.]

Mike

[Chris Jenkins]

I hate to keep saying the same thing as above, but I got a LV MK II and it has been a treat to work with.

I can say I did have the original LV honing guide as well and the widely seen cheepo Side clamping honing guide.

From my experiance these 3 systems all work the same, but each one is just a little bit more precise. Setting the angle with precision on the side clamp cheapo pretty much requires a jig to get good repeatablitiy, also the wheel on the jig is quite narrow and allows rocking. Which is why you may want to jump up to the LV model, it comes with a jig to match the angles every time and it has a nice wide wheel. As well it incorperates a essentric cam so you can get some real nice mirco bevels in there. The only down side to the LV MK 1 was that my blades weren't always square and is a detail you have to watch on this model. Though this is an upside if you plan to do skew chisels (if you use them). Upgrade again and you are at the LV MK II. This system is even better, square every time, essentric cam, options to add a camber wheel. If you do a search you'll find a review or two here on SMC regarding the LV MK II.

[John Miliunas]

Clint, just in case nobody else mentions it, the LV MK II (Veritas) is a great choice! :D I absolutely love mine! :) :cool:

[Derek Cohen]

Clint

If you think that those diamond stones of yours get your plane blades sharp, then you are in for a shock when you use "proper" grits. What you have is, frankly, good enough only for grinding a bevel - NOT for sharpening one. Sharp means "smooth", and these diamond stones will leave a serrated edge. The best here goes as high a 360 grit (40 microns), and a (barely) decent edge begins at 4000 grit waterstone or 1500 wet and dry sandpaper (both 3 microns). Better is 6000/8000 waterstone and 2000/2500 W&D (about 1 micron).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Craven]

I choose the inexpensive route, with one of these $11.99 honing guides from Woodcraft & a variety of sandpaper to glue to a piece of granite. But the most beneficial thing for my sharpening was the hands on training at Alan Turner's Philadelphia Furniture Workshop.

http://img272.imageshack.us/img272/1839/web3114bigvu8.jpg

[Zahid Naqvi]

I choose the inexpensive route, with one of these $11.99 honing guides from Woodcraft & a variety of sandpaper [/IMG]

I use the same one Jeff uses. I don't have any problems with the narrow guide wheel. While honing you should be putting pressure as close to the edge as possible, this prevents any rocking that might occur due to an impropper grip. Besides, this side-clamp/vise-clamp gig is much easier to clamp irons in compared to the Veritas sharpening system (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33001&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1), atleast for me it is.

[Chuck Nickerson]

which I use, is blade sides must be parallel far enough back to grip the blade for the angle you desire. For instance, LV block plane blade sides are not parallel on the back third of the blade. This keeps me from using the jig for 25 degree angles. OTOH, LN block plane blade sides are parallel all the way back.

[John Powers]

Jeff, I've just been in touch with Alan turner on the sharpening course. I worked at the VA building about 5 minutes from the workshop and never knew about it. Retiring Jan 3d so I hope to get to know Alan better.

thanks

[Dave Anderson NH]

John, you will never regret sspending time with Alan, or for that matter Mario. They both have enthusiasm and a huge heapo' knowledge to impart.

general comment: Unless someone is interested in learning by trial and error for a specific reason, practice, etc. I could never understand why someone would be willing to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on tools yet be unwilling to give up $50-250 for classes to give them a skillset which would make their hobby both more productive and enjoyable.

[Terek Johnson]

Many purists eschew guides as an unneccessary crutch. But the simple fact is they allow you to establish a known angle and maintain it. The beauty of the Mk II system is that it allows you to accomplish this with every plane blade from tiny lil' block plane blades, all the way up to a #112 blade (2 7/8"). This by itself sets the Mk II guide apart from the competition. But it also provides settings for secondary, tertiary, and back bevels. All this adds up to a very comprehensive AND very user friendly guide: money well spent - this guide will serve you well for many years. Some people truely enjoy the zen-like sharpening experience; others look at it as a neccessary evil and want to get it over with as soon as possible. Whatever your style, guides give you consistency and predictabilty.
As for sharpening stone choice... there are two divergent and boisterous camps: waterstones vs. oilstones. Personally, I like waterstones ( I use a 1000, 4000 and 8000 set-up which gives me edges that will shave hair off your arm, if that's what your into). Their main caveat is that they are more prone to dishing than oilstones. You will have to lap them more frequently. The payoff for that dilligence is a stone that cuts fast and clean.

[Alan Turner]

As with all things woodworking related, there are many ways to accomplish the same result. Choclate and vanilla.

At PFW we teach grinding the principal bevel on a high speed grinder using a part of a LV grinding jig in conjunction with a shop made adjustable rail guide, and then honing using waterstones (1k, 4k, 8k) and the original LV honing guide. That said, there is much to be said for the Eclipse style jig aside from its price. I prefer it when lightly cambering a smoother. I also continue to use the LV original honing jig, and sometimes the MKII. To me, a precise honing angle is not of great imortance. I also use a UK Stanley honing jig for spokeshave blades. Whatever works.

Glad to see Jeff enjoyed his experience with us.

I am in the process of instsalling some 1/4" loc-line for the high speed grinder to shoot about 30-40 lbs. of air right at the point of contact between the blade and wheel to assist in cooling. If it works I will try to post pix. The lock-line is a neat product, and pretty inexpensive. Might even try it on the drill press for cooling a bit when doing repetitive cuts.

[Tim Martin]

Yep, mark me down as another MKII user. I have been sharpening and honing free hand for 10 years and still do free hand for touch-ups on the fly, but for initial honing now I reach for the Veritas jig as it is consistently repeatable and fast.
Once your setup, you can work through 10 blades/chisels like a robot..

Below is my setup.

1 x 360 grit Diamond plate

1 x 1000 grit Diamond plate

1 x Norton combination waterstone 4000/8000 grit

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/th_sh2.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/sh2.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/th_sh3.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/sh3.jpg)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/th_sh1.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/sh1.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/th_sh4.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/iVeneer/sh4.jpg)

[Jay Davidson]

Absolutely, the LV Mk II - great registration, better than most others to keep the iron aligned; easy to set the angles, and great micro bevel adjustment on the wheel.