Robert Trotter
11-27-2006, 1:10 AM
Hi folks, I've searched but haven't found what I want. Either not there or I am not there on how to search.:o
I am looking at some small back saws for doing mainly mortice and tennons and general cutting to length of smaller pieces and for some dovetails and for making cuts for dados, grooves and sliding dovetail joints. You know, everything.:D
I am thinking of carcas or small tennon saws as I thought they would be the most useful. Limited buget so probably two saws. X-cut and rip.
I was thinking that I could use them for dovetails when I need to as well rather than a dedicated dovetail saw. Is there any problem with using a small tennon saw (carcas saw) for dovetails?
So now to my question:-
What tpi or ppi is good?
Does tpi recomendation change for softwood or hardwood and for different hardwoods?
Also what set or kerf? and rake?
I would like something not too hard to start. (which I have read LNs are)
I am a hobbyist so time is not the major factor. Obviously I don't want to spend five minutes making one small tennon cut. I would like a good finish. Going for cut and join with minimal or no paring.(when my skill gets there of course- but I will be trying - gotta aim high:) )
I was thinking of 16tpi for a cross cut saw and maybe similar for the rip saw. Going for the lower range for useful blade depth for the x-cut and the deeper blade for the rip saw. My thinking is that deeper for cutting tennons (rip) would need more depth and cutting shoulders would be more of a shallow cut.
Is this reasonable thinking? Your advice?
OK now about me...to help you help me...
I don't have any western saws and haven't used one for 19 years. I have some Japanese saws (I live in Japan). They cut very thin kerf and leave a nice finish. If cutting things like dovetails I have no problem with the thin boards. But when cross cutting the shoulders for example on a tennon on wide face I sometimes get a bit wavy. Or cutting the tennon cheeks.
Also, I would just like to have a very nice western saw to use. :D
(this is the main reason, really. Just trying to justify the cost:D )
I like the japanese saws and they cut quick. I have read that they are better than western saws especially for finish. but I have also read that a good western saw tunbed and sharpened correctly will be just as good. Is this right?
I have used mainly softwoods till now and Japanese saws are designed for softwoods really. But I want to use mainly hardwoods from now.
So people say 15tpi or 14 tpi or whatever and I don't really know the difference in cut speed and quality. Most Japanese saws I have, have a LOT more teeth. Probably getting up to double. So your thoughts and advice on tpi etc for speed and finish would be greatly appreciated.
My general thinking is that the more teeth the merrier but I am sure this is not right.
Robert
(Japan)
I am looking at some small back saws for doing mainly mortice and tennons and general cutting to length of smaller pieces and for some dovetails and for making cuts for dados, grooves and sliding dovetail joints. You know, everything.:D
I am thinking of carcas or small tennon saws as I thought they would be the most useful. Limited buget so probably two saws. X-cut and rip.
I was thinking that I could use them for dovetails when I need to as well rather than a dedicated dovetail saw. Is there any problem with using a small tennon saw (carcas saw) for dovetails?
So now to my question:-
What tpi or ppi is good?
Does tpi recomendation change for softwood or hardwood and for different hardwoods?
Also what set or kerf? and rake?
I would like something not too hard to start. (which I have read LNs are)
I am a hobbyist so time is not the major factor. Obviously I don't want to spend five minutes making one small tennon cut. I would like a good finish. Going for cut and join with minimal or no paring.(when my skill gets there of course- but I will be trying - gotta aim high:) )
I was thinking of 16tpi for a cross cut saw and maybe similar for the rip saw. Going for the lower range for useful blade depth for the x-cut and the deeper blade for the rip saw. My thinking is that deeper for cutting tennons (rip) would need more depth and cutting shoulders would be more of a shallow cut.
Is this reasonable thinking? Your advice?
OK now about me...to help you help me...
I don't have any western saws and haven't used one for 19 years. I have some Japanese saws (I live in Japan). They cut very thin kerf and leave a nice finish. If cutting things like dovetails I have no problem with the thin boards. But when cross cutting the shoulders for example on a tennon on wide face I sometimes get a bit wavy. Or cutting the tennon cheeks.
Also, I would just like to have a very nice western saw to use. :D
(this is the main reason, really. Just trying to justify the cost:D )
I like the japanese saws and they cut quick. I have read that they are better than western saws especially for finish. but I have also read that a good western saw tunbed and sharpened correctly will be just as good. Is this right?
I have used mainly softwoods till now and Japanese saws are designed for softwoods really. But I want to use mainly hardwoods from now.
So people say 15tpi or 14 tpi or whatever and I don't really know the difference in cut speed and quality. Most Japanese saws I have, have a LOT more teeth. Probably getting up to double. So your thoughts and advice on tpi etc for speed and finish would be greatly appreciated.
My general thinking is that the more teeth the merrier but I am sure this is not right.
Robert
(Japan)