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Dan Forman
11-26-2006, 5:26 PM
I've been away from the Creek for a while, having been sidetracked by other persuits, but back now. Having FINALLY gotten my cyclone set up, I'm wondering what to do about the inside of my table saw. I recall hearing that one should try to minimize the amount of space inside the saw in order to increase the draft factor and aid in evacuating the dust. I have a Unisaw, any tips on the best way to go about this would be greatly appreciated.

On a related note, is anyone aware of an aftermarket blade shroud for the Unisaw?

Still left to do is make a ceiling mounted blade guard with DC. Would I want a more flexable hose than the 4" standard clear flexhose?

And to stave off the Tyler and his deputies, here are some pics. The masking tape on the saw connection is temporary!

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/Woodwork/P1010543.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/Woodwork/P1010544.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/Woodwork/P1010546.jpg

Dan

chris del
11-26-2006, 6:40 PM
Dan, I just ordered a "Shark Guard" for my table saw as a aftermarket blade shroud with dust collection. I have 6" duct going to the saw cabinet and 4" going to the Shark Guard as you can see in my post Gorilla and ducks.

Chris

http://www.leestyron.com/

Dan Forman
11-27-2006, 2:58 PM
No other thoughts on this?

Tyler Howell
11-27-2006, 3:10 PM
Hey Dan,
Long time no see.
Nice set up......... but as long as you asked:rolleyes: Some type of armor for the Romex would be great.
I prefer EMT on everything within a 2Xs reach in the shop.
What have you been making and are you playing any music???;)
Excalibur for my TS blade guard.

glenn bradley
11-27-2006, 3:37 PM
It will differ with the saw but I have blocked the gaps between the table top and the cabinet on mine with high density foam (this must be attached or it will end up in your chip barrel) except for along the front of the saw, sealed any other cracks or crevices with silicone glue and left the gap around the blade elevation handle and the small gap at the front of the table/cabinet joint as mentioned above. My saw's motor access door did not come with a gasket so I added that as well.

This seems to direct the chips toward the port at the back of the saw. One thing you want to be sure of is that the "entrance" openings into the cabinet at least allow the square area of the exit port or just a bit more. You're not trying to vacuum the chips, you want to create air flow that the dust can ride on, eh?

Al Willits
11-27-2006, 4:44 PM
Well, if your desperate for remarks... :)

I'm looking for a better TS guard and after talking to probably 5 or 6 people have come up with the Shark Guard also, I just noticed it has a riving knife installed and that would be another plus in my opinion.

Also as far as improving the TS and its DC, fwiw the Dust Force by JDS takes all the sawdust out of my Hybrid saw, so on face valve, not sure if you'll need much more than what you have, the Guru's would have ya running 8" pipe and 5hp motors, but not sure at what point you reach overkill.
Not sure, but wouldn't it be possible to seal the saw up enough to restrict the flow of air?
Might do more harm than good possibly.
just a thought..

Al

Jim Becker
11-27-2006, 5:47 PM
The standard "decent quality" clear flex is just fine for your overarm DC solution.

Your install looks great, Dan! (I like the "forehead" saver stripes... :D )

Dan Forman
11-27-2006, 7:31 PM
Chris---Thanks for the Shark guard recommendation for DC, but by blade shroud, I was thinking of the sort used by SawStop inside of the saw, that would vent through the dust port, making the whole process much more efficient. I have no idea if anyone is making such a thing as an aftermarket piece.

Tyler---Yeah, seems I can only pay attention to one thing at a time, and lately I've been playing guitar and hanging out at The Gear Page, finding out what I've missed in the last fifteen years as far as the "Boutique" market is concerned. Warning, give the wife the credit card before going over there!

What's EMT? Some sort of conduit or wire protection I gather?

Glen---I was wondering about that space between the cab and table of the saw. Sealing up the back and sides makes sense, as it would encourage draft to the rear of the cab. My motor shroud had a gasket, but also has vents in the side too. Wasn't sure it was such a good idea to close those off, as they might be needed to cool the motor.

Al---Checking into the Shark Guard.

Jim---Thanks, didn't take me long to discover the need for stripes.

Dan