Bath Cabinet and Stan's Cabinet

[Mark Singer]

I am working down my list of ordered furniture for Ms. Kim. Next is a Krenov style bath cabinet, The Design was posted in the Design Forum a while back. While i am at it I thought I might make little surprise for Stan that bought me thouse incredible Japanese tools.. so a similar cabinet will be for him.

First step is paring th wood for the doors...here I am recreating nature,,,,putting same board from same tree where it seems to belong. The most important part of this type of cabinet is the doors! They make it or break it. Here are 2 posibilities ...the spalted shedua.....or the figured... I can chose one or the other and the back will be made from the one not selected. The smaller pair will make the sides. Here we will see how to make bookmatched pairs with solid wood....it is a key element in the appearance...or an asymetriical orientation can be selected.... The back will be a floating panel since the grain suggests an expansion problem potentially. Still we can use it to square the cabinet. The mortiseing for hinges and joinery is done before glue up... The doors are planed to fit in place... it takes a bit of fore thought and if it doesn't look good...it will burn nicely since it is dry 6% moisture:eek:

[Jim Becker]

Picture number three looks wonderful, Mark! ;)

[James Biddle]

If they like the "in your face" type of decor, definitely #3. The contrast is striking between the heart and sap wood (or mineral and non, I can never remember). Me, I'd work the figured into an interesting detail for the doors and leave the spalted for the back. I like finding the surprise inside the box. Leftover from being a kid I guess.

[Mark Singer]

I paired , glued up all the panels including the tops and bottoms of the 2 cabinets. Then I selected the best matches starting with th most important....the doors. On a large sled I cut the panels with a great deal of care...using a marking knife to insure the measurements were consistent. The rear panel is oriented against the grain of the top and bottom. So I am creating expansion joints and will let the panel "float" though by use of an internal ledger ....it can be used to square and secure the cabinet laterally.
The joints are M &T and the corner detail also is an interlock expansion joint

[Mark Singer]

This morning I assembled the cabinet for the first time....this a a dry assembly...hinges get marked...Doors are rough trimed....adjustments made...a finely set plane trims to it...the line for the rear ledger was marked..this holds the back that has a wenge spline for expansion...one side is glued the other moves as required. The rabbet lap jint on the corners allows eor movement too. The hinges were located at the door centerlines..1/16" off the carcass face. The hinges are set pivot centered on base....pivot just at edge of door...this works well, if I remember correctly:confused: and allows about a 1/8 reveal for the door edge. The brass shelf pins are 2 peice and the female portion was set..The base is basically the floor plan of this type of cabinet...just mark it all and know there is little room for error with these hinges and this type of cabinet

[Mark Singer]

annd and....and

[Neil Clemmons]

You definitely want to measure that one carefully a FEW times and then recheck it a few more. Really looks great, Mark.

Assume you'll slide the hinges in after cabinet assembly while carefully holding the doors!

Thanks for the tutorial.

BTW, i missed the earlier discussion's conclusion, but did you decide on the stainless base?

Also, is that a Gerstner tool cabinet in the background or one you made?

Neil

[Mark Singer]

You definitely want to measure that one carefully a FEW times and then recheck it a few more. Really looks great, Mark.

Assume you'll slide the hinges in after cabinet assembly while carefully holding the doors!

Thanks for the tutorial.

BTW, i missed the earlier discussion's conclusion, but did you decide on the stainless base?

Also, is that a Gerstner tool cabinet in the background or one you made?

Neil

Neil,
It was a panic glue up! I should have use plastic resin which allows more time. The cabinet is a cheap Gerstner copy....the tools inside are real!
It will have a stainless base....it came out square and I got a hairline crack I need to fix...other tan that I should be on the interior soon.....these type of cabinets take time,,,

[Jim Becker]

Sharp, Mark! And thanks for the pictures of the hinge work.

[Mark Singer]

Sharp, Mark! And thanks for the pictures of the hinge work.

Jim,
I should have explained, I used a trim router and I made a jig to mortise the hinges....squared with a chisel. I will post a pic of the jig

[Dan Larson]

...it came out square and I got a hairline crack I need to fix...
Hi Mark, I'm enjoying watching your progress... what's your preferred method of fixing cracks? Do you use epoxy/sawdust as a filler?

Dan

[Mark Singer]

Hi Mark, I'm enjoying watching your progress... what's your preferred method of fixing cracks? Do you use epoxy/sawdust as a filler?

Dan


Dan amazing that crack did not show once I planed the edge flush...padauk and shedua have cracks in the wood...it is like a wind shake in the shedua and a drying crack in the padauk....hide glue forced into the crack and sand with 80grit by hand burnishing the wet glue in the crack. After it drys sand with a finer grit , plane or scrape with a hand scraper. The hide glue does not effect the finish like Tight Bond or epoxy. Epoxy fills are colored different then the wood and will show, ok for very dark woods on medium and lighter woods it is hard to color match

[Roy Wall]

Dan amazing that crack did not show once I planed the edge flush...padauk and shedua have cracks in the wood...it is like a wind shake in the shedua and a drying crack in the padauk....hide glue forced into the crack and sand with 80grit by hand burnishing the wet glue in the crack. After it drys sand with a finer grit , plane or scrape with a hand scraper. The hide glue does not effect the finish like Tight Bond or epoxy. Epoxy fills are colored different then the wood and will show, ok for very dark woods on medium and lighter woods it is hard to color match

Mark - Do you use the titebond "ready mixed" Hide glue......or do the melting pot??

[Mark Singer]

Roy,
I use both, but for this the premixed Behlen's is good

[Mark Singer]

Hanging the doors is always a touchy thing...leave them fat and plane to fit. Use steel screws until the the very end the brass ones are delicate. Scribe with a knife and plane using a straight edge. You can see the ledger inside which allows the back to be free and it can still be squared using the washer head screws.. The shelf pins are 2 piece brass... Leave proud and sand flush. The back shows the expansion joints. The door fit is quite good and comes from carefull planning and slight adjustments. Remember don't over do it....they never get bigger only smaller:rolleyes:

[Mark Singer]

I forgot to take a pic of the hinge router jig;)

[Hans Braul]

Mark,

Once again, your work shows a level of care and craftsmanship rarely seen, even on this fine forum. I love the way the grain for the doors works, and the presence of the thick top and bottom pieces really give the piece a sense of strength without looking clunky. It's no coincidence that you make your living by creating designs. Very beautiful. There is a confidence and balance to the piece that is hard to put into words but they speak volumes on their own.

Thanks for posting
Hans

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

Once again, your work shows a level of care and craftsmanship rarely seen, even on this fine forum. I love the way the grain for the doors works, and the presence of the thick top and bottom pieces really give the piece a sense of strength without looking clunky. It's no coincidence that you make your living by creating designs. Very beautiful. There is a confidence and balance to the piece that is hard to put into words but they speak volumes on their own.

Thanks for posting
Hans

Hans,
Thank you, the design is really not mine...it is like many of the latest Krenov cabinets until he recently stopped working. In the end mine will sit on a stainless steel base and this will add something new. I do spend a lot of effort on matching grain and this starts at the hardwood supplier. When I lay the boards on the cart I am already picturing the doors...The challenge with this type of cabinet is that there is no room for error....everything must be dead on...now the doors come off and placed in a safe place and I work on the interior....hand dovetailed drawers...a shelf and then hand plane and scrape the whole thing and carefully select the finish

[Mark Singer]

The Brusso hinge jig...the fence is only used for doors and clamps to the face....with the fence removed it works for the top and bottom of the cabinet. The router is a trim router with a bushing guide....make the jig on the bandsaw....cut the slot narrow ....try it ...make it a bit wider until the hinge just fits...square the end with a chisel

[Mark Singer]

The dawers were fun wit integral pulls cut from one piece .. The fit of all the parts is good. I am warmed up now and can probably improve on the next one...just little things that require steady work and practice these cabinets are detailed and take a lot of thought...

[Mark Singer]

more pics...

[Dan Larson]

Mark, the drawer pull detail is really neat... the shape looks like it feel good in the hand. How did you make the drawer fronts with the integral pulls? Did you take a slice off of the top of the rough stock, plane down the remainder to proper thickness for drawer front, then glue back on the piece that you sliced off earlier after you shaped it to the desired contour, and finally cut dovetails?

Dan

[Mark Singer]

Mark, the drawer pull detail is really neat... the shape looks like it feel good in the hand. How did you make the drawer fronts with the integral pulls? Did you take a slice off of the top of the rough stock, plane down the remainder to proper thickness for drawer front, then glue back on the piece that you sliced off earlier after you shaped it to the desired contour, and finally cut dovetails?

Dan

Dan
I cut a rabbet in 8/4 stock, leaving enough for the dovetails. When I made the dovetails the lip was just square and then I sawed it on the bandsaw as a bow front drawer. Then shaping with a round rasp,,,die grinder...sandpaper and a compass plane..flex sanding pads...a lot of work!

[Dan Larson]

Dan
I cut a rabbet in 8/4 stock, leaving enough for the dovetails. When I made the dovetails the lip was just square and then I sawed it on the bandsaw as a bow front drawer. Then shaping with a round rasp,,,die grinder...sandpaper and a compass plane..flex sanding pads...a lot of work!
When I was looking earlier today on my other computer, it looked like the face of the drawer was flat, with a curved lip for the pull. Now that I'm looking at your pictures with a better quality monitor, I can now see the shape of the drawer much better... and I'm even more impressed. The whole thing is curved, flowing, organic... wow! All that shaping in concrete-like Shedua, no less!!!

[Jim Becker]

Ah, Mark...simply beautiful. And the drawer setup really is special!

[Hans Braul]

Mark I love this piece. The whole thing works. Truly a work of art.

Hans

[Neil Clemmons]

Really excellent work, Mark. The piece really flows beautifully. Can't wait to see it on the stainless legs.

Thanks for sharing all the photos -

Neil

[Jerry Olexa]

Your usual high quality work...Thanks for pics!!

[Roy Wall]

Mark,

I'm under the impression both shelves just sit on the brass pins???

If so, did you:

1) Make the two drawers identical in size
2) keeping the lower shelf off, fit the drawers by installing three identical "spacer boards" for the two sides and the center - until you got perfect fit and slide on each drawer
3) fasten down these spacers and then put the lower shelf back on

Just wondering about the procedure...?

Great DT's!

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

I'm under the impression both shelves just sit on the brass pins???

If so, did you:

1) Make the two drawers identical in size
2) keeping the lower shelf off, fit the drawers by installing three identical "spacer boards" for the two sides and the center - until you got perfect fit and slide on each drawer
3) fasten down these spacers and then put the lower shelf back on

Just wondering about the procedure...?

Great DT's!
Roy,
The upper shelf is supported on brass 2 piece pins ...an insert goes in and then the pin screws into it...Lee Valley was my resource and also for the Brusso hinges.
Now the lower shelf was made after the drawers were made. I deducted 1" approx from the inside cabinet dimension and resawed 3 spacer / divider boards. These were carfully doweled to the shelf . Then the two side boards are screwed and countersunk to the cabinet sides ...this secures the assembly.
This type of cabinet and hinges require a great deal of care,,,,This piece took about 8 hours longer than the Paduak sofa to make! It is highly detailed. The loose rear panels have 3 expansion joints ...one tongue and groove at the center...and interlocking rabbets on the sides...
The dovetails are hand cut half blind in the front and through doves in the rear..
The finish is Briwax and polish...

Roy in this pic you can see the brass pins

[Mark Singer]

What are your opinions for door hardware? Shedua handcarved? Ebony? Stainless steel?

[Hans Braul]

My vote is for Shedua hand carved. I'd love to see what your intuition comes up with.

Hans

[Steve Wargo]

I'm always a big fan of ebony, but don't think in the situation it would look right. can you match the knife hinges with a thin simple design?

[Mark Singer]

The hardware....shelf pins...
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/hardware/shelves/63z0206g1b.jpg












Hinges....

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/hardware/boxhardware/01b1312g2.jpg

[Mark Singer]

When I was looking earlier today on my other computer, it looked like the face of the drawer was flat, with a curved lip for the pull. Now that I'm looking at your pictures with a better quality monitor, I can now see the shape of the drawer much better... and I'm even more impressed. The whole thing is curved, flowing, organic... wow! All that shaping in concrete-like Shedua, no less!!!

Dan,
Here is a little secret....I found a matching piece of teak for the drawr fronts and it is easier to shape...The grain and color matched exactly!

[Dan Larson]

Dan,
Here is a little secret....I found a matching piece of teak for the drawr fronts and it is easier to shape...The grain and color matched exactly!
Being clever is so much more efficient than being pigheaded.;)

[Bill White]

Mark,
You're gonna have to get a fork lift to move that cab. Sure looks great.
Bill

[John Miliunas]

Mark, your beautiful designs and craftsmanship just never fail to amaze me. :) The attention to detail is second to none and I really love those drawer fronts! Yes, I can imagine they were indeed quite time consuming and labor intense. Well done, my friend. (NOT that I'd expect anything less, of course!:D ) :) :cool:

[Mark Singer]

Well I made a decision....Ebony surfboard shaped pulls....they echo the drawer shape and are a bit organic in nature.. I pulled a drawer out as the pic shows and it shows a solid bottom. The wax finish has a nice luster and did not darken the wood....some woods get heavy with oil or other finishes

[Mark Singer]

pics for viewing or reference or?

[John Miliunas]

Great choice, Mark! They look great and I think the Ebony sets them off nicely. However, my eyes keep going back to those drawer fronts! :D Just how wonderful is that? :) If I had a couple more hands, I'd give you more than just two "thumbs up", my friend! :) :cool:

[Jim Becker]

Outstanding, Mark! Those pulls were "just the ticket" for this piece.

[Kent Parker]

Mark,

I've been away for a bit and it sure is nice to know your is still very active on this forum. Beautiful work !! I'd still be trying to figure out if the heavy end of the handles should go up or down.

I have to go cut some wood now........

Thanks,

KP

[Hans Braul]

Well, at the risk of repeating myself, I am gobsmacked at your work Mark. Well done.

Do you plan to take a break for the holiday season?

Hans

[Mark Singer]

Well, at the risk of repeating myself, I am gobsmacked at your work Mark. Well done.

Do you plan to take a break for the holiday season?

Hans

Thank you Hans!
I have a knee problem now...but soon I should be back at it....I am still learning by doing and that will continue...

[Dan Larson]

Mark, I like the look that you've achieved with the wax finish on the Sheuda... oiled Sheuda becomes so dark it loses some of its liveliness. What type of wax did you use?

Dan

[Mark Singer]

Mark, I like the look that you've achieved with the wax finish on the Sheuda... oiled Sheuda becomes so dark it loses some of its liveliness. What type of wax did you use?

Dan

Dan,
Its kinda' my secret:rolleyes: It works amazingly well. Plane , scrape or sand the wood as usuall....if you sand go at least to 220 or 320 grit. If you plane use a light to check for tearout on woods like shedua. Then apply clear Briwax with #0000 steel wool. Panel by panel...don't do too much. Then just before buffing rewax with a light coat and the steel wool...now I use the Festool Rotex on the buffing mode with a small terry towel spinning on the pad..