Gorilla and ducks

[chris del]

I thought the 10 hour round trip to the Oneida factory in Syracuse NY would be the hard part and I am beginning to think it was the quicker and cheaper phase of the of my new DC system.
I have spent 2 Saturdays and $700 for all the ducting and Lee-Valley blasts gates and I am very close to being finished.
No matter how good I plan I always seem to be short a fitting.
As you can see in the pic I have a 4" drop directly over my TS blade..... That is for my Shark Guard with 4" port that is currently on order. I am really looking forward to it!!!!

Chris

[Jim Becker]

Chris, you've done a great job on that duct installation! Yea, it's a lot of work, but it will pay in the end with no leaks and efficient dust control. And that Gorilla sure is a "bright spot" in your shop! LOL!

[Karl Laustrup]

Good looking installation Chris. I know what you mean about the ductwork. Mine cost almost as much as the unit itself. I'm still not done with mine and it seemed that I was always having to order up some other part that I hadn't figured on.

One of these days I'll have to post some pics of my installation.

Karl

[Travis Porter]

Looks good Chris. Piping, fittings, and all do add up quickly. I too spent almost as much on it as I did the unit itself.

FWIW, I intend to make some type of box around the upper part of mine and line it with foam insulation. After listening to the thing for 8 months now, I am of the opinion I need to dampen the noise it makes.

[Jeff Wright]

Bill Pentz mentions wrapping the exhaust pipe coming from the DC to the filter with HVAC insulation wrap to reduce the noise level. Forget where he mentions it but here is his site:

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Index.cfm

You might want to read the section on Ducting; it may have been there.

[Jim Becker]

Jeff, the Oneida filter has a muffler built in. The heavy elbow from the outlet to the filter "may" benefit from wrapping, but I'm not sure there would be a lot of gain, err...loss. More benefit might come from a small wall that would deflect direct noise. A full closet is best, but not always practical in some shops. (I did the closet and the sound levels are very low outside of hood noise, especially at the J/P)

[Scott Hochuli]

Things are looking good Chris, very clean installation.
What's the lead time on your Shark Guard?

[chris del]

Things are looking good Chris, very clean installation.
What's the lead time on your Shark Guard?

Lee said 3 weeks to ship, then USPS to Canada takes forever.... I ordered it a week ago and will be supprised if I get it before the new year....

I dont really understand the purpose of trying to dampen the noise level of the Gorilla, its quieter that any machines that it will be attached too.
I wear hearing protection in the shop anyways.....

[Wayne Watling]

Hi Chris,

Great ducting job, lot of hard work but it will pay off for you. I see your from Ontario, a few months ago i made the trip to Oneida from just north of Toronto and now have the system installed with some temporary ductwork in my newly built shop. Actually the Oneida unit itself is in the single garage where the car gets parked and the filter pops out through the wall into the shop which in size is about another 2 car spaces. I've yet to buy and install all the ductwork, still awaiting on delivery of 2 larger machines to arrive but I was thinking about getting it from Welbeck Sawmill.
Where did you get your ductwork from?
Do you have any installation tips now you have some experience installing.

In case anyones interested here are some pics:
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/seperation2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/wall.jpg

[chris del]

Hi Chris,

Great ducting job, lot of hard work but it will pay off for you. I see your from Ontario, a few months ago i made the trip to Oneida from just north of Toronto and now have the system installed with some temporary ductwork in my newly built shop. Actually the Oneida unit itself is in the single garage where the car gets parked and the filter pops out through the wall into the shop which in size is about another 2 car spaces. I've yet to buy and install all the ductwork, still awaiting on delivery of 2 larger machines to arrive but I was thinking about getting it from Welbeck Sawmill.
Where did you get your ductwork from?
Do you have any installation tips now you have some experience installing.

In case anyones interested here are some pics:
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/seperation2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/wall.jpg

Looks good Wayne.

I would recommed getting the branch Wyes from Welbeck. I had them shipped purolator (cheaper than a tank of gas). All my spiral ducts and fittings were purchased @ Don Park on Lesmill rd in Toronto (Leslie just south of the 401). They do have a closer location to you, near the 427 I think??
I think I will have a couple of wyes left over and @ $35 each I would rather donate them to a fellow WW than to shove them in the attic.... I will know for sure if they are extra by next weekend.

No installation tips other than sometimes the spiral ducting will fit over the wye nicely, sometimes no matter what you do it will not slide on. If it is too tight just use a hammer and create a little flare around the whole diameter of the pipe.

One last thing..... spend the extra 10% and get all 26 gauge fittings and dust.

Chris

[Bob Dodge]

Looks like you're coming along fine there Chris. Great job. Good pic too.

Bob

[chris del]

Thanks Bob, its been a bunch of work and cash.... One regret, I never made a drop for a floor sweep. My dad talked me out of it saying that non wood products like screws etc may get sucked up and ruin the cyclone. I still wish I had of put one in.

[Bob Dodge]

Chris,

You can insert one anywhere along one or more of your drops, you don't have to start from the main. For example, a wye placed close to your saw, would give you that capability. Floor-sweep hoods generally come equipped with spring-loaded trap-doors. Depending on how well it's constructed, you probably wouldn't require a separate blast-gate. (rubber-gasket door) With no gasket, you should have a blast-gate. You step on a lever at the side of the hood to actuate the door.

If you do add a blast-gate to the pipe, you can fabricate your own floor-sweep hood, and the door wouln't be required.

Some guys that I've talked to used 6" pipe for floor-sweeps, and found it to be "too much". They were more satisfied with a smaller pipe.

I wouldn't want suction that's so strong as to pull hardware up the pipe, but, that wouldn't be much of a concern anyway with the cyclone separator.

[Tom Ruflin]

Chris, nice installation. I spent about $850 on duct work that I bought from Oneida. I went with the snap lock pipe and have alot of elbows. I know you are suppose to have the run as straight as possible but in a basement there are the heating ducts and plumbing to contend with. I did install a floor sweep near my lathe and am very glad I did. I bought the one from Oneida for 5" pipe and use a blast gate. It works great altough I am careful about what I sweep into it. Nice looking shop and enjoy the cyclone.

[Jim Becker]

One regret, I never made a drop for a floor sweep. My dad talked me out of it saying that non wood products like screws etc may get sucked up and ruin the cyclone. I still wish I had of put one in.

Put one in. The fact of the matter is...a cyclone/2-stage system is the ONLY kind of system you should use a floor sweep with. Any nails will not damage the cyclone nor will they reach the impeller.

I have two. I may add a third near my lathe for convenience.

[chris del]

Tom, I know your system..... I read every post I cold get my hands on prior to driving down to Syracuse. Its must be very nice living so close to the factory.
My plan was to use snaplock, but my supplier only had 26 gauge in 30" lenghts. So I opted to use spiral and I am happy with it.
Im heading out to the shop to find a spot for my floor sweep.