10" Saw Blade Comparison Chart

[scott spencer]

Over the past couple of years, I've been a little preoccupied trying out and getting familiar with various saw blades. Below is a chart that tracks some rough ratings, opinions, facts, and comments about 30 blades. It started out as just my way of tracking which blades I've tried, but maybe it'll be useful or interesting to a few of you.

Disclaimer and Explanations:
This is by no means intended to be a scientific or comprehensive blade review. It's just some guy playing with saw blades in his garage on an average saw tuned by an amateur, and documenting some comments on an Excel spreadsheet. Some of the ratings are just opinion and some are subject the variability of my mood or the moon alignment :rolleyes: . There are undoubtedly flaws in my evaluation method as well as my approach to the documention. Note that most of hte blades are all really good performers that I'd expect very good results from, regardless of where they fell in the ranking. There are complications when trying to compare any blades, especially when comparing general purpsose (GP)/combo blades to specialized rip, crosscut, or plywood blades....the specialized blades rate poorly in the "versatility" category...they tend to do a super job but have a narrow "sweet spot". Price was not included as a direct value in the rating...it's listed mainly as a convenient reference... However price is a consideration in the subjective "value" rating which was factored in the "total" ranking...some blades were available at steep closeout discounts and subsequently got high marks for "value" that inflated their "total" rating. "Carbide thickness" was also a consideration, although it doesn't impact the cut, it increases the "value" rating because they allow more resharpenings - ie: the Ridge Carbide has huge teeth and scored higher than the WWII as a result...but I consider their cutting performance to be comparable. The chart is sorted by "total", but could have just as easily been sorted by "performance".

Read the categories and comments before drawing conclusions, and feel free to ask specific questions to find out how or why I determined a particular ranking. Sorry if this an eyechart!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/stuff/bladechart.jpg

I've only kept maybe 10 of these blades and I'll list them below. The reasons for keeping a blade is somewhat random and not always indicative of it's performance. I can't keep them all! I would have loved to keep the DW3218TK and the Gold Medal, but a friend needed them in a pinch and both those blades fit the bill for him on the cheap. My WWII is an excellent versatile performer that was a gift from a good friend. I consider it my mainstay, but I also reach for the Freud LU88R010 very frequently and find that blade to also be a steller versatile performer that happens to retail at a great price. The Ridge Carbide is impressive also...because of it's larger teeth, if I were buying an $80 general purpose blade today, I'd likely pick the TS2000 (available in TK or full kerf). I toss in the DW7124TK or Leitz/Irwin 24T TK rippers for heavy stock or bulk ripping. I still have an 80T crosscut blade but almost never need it. If you're looking for the lowest cost bang for the buck, check into the Freud LU86 or Tenry RS25540. If you're looking for best overall performance at a reasonable cost, look into the LU88 if you use TK's. If you're a full kerf user, the DW7657 is a darn tough value to beat at ~ $50. The Leitz/Irwin deals are a terrific value for mid-highend performance, but are an increasingly limited supply. I tend to favor good quality 3/32" thin kerf blades on my saws for the faster feedrate and lower strain on the motor. I've never had an issue with deflection on this caliber of blade. Some of you will prefer full kerfs for your own reasons, and if you've got a full 3hp cab saw, there's less reason to consider TK's. There may have been other blades that I tried but couldn't remember and/or forgot to enter it in the spreadsheet.


My current blade roster:
WWII
LU88
DW7124TK
LU86
Leitz/Irwin 24T TK ripper
Leitz Pro 80T crosscut
Tenryu RS25550
Tenryu RS25540
Delta Industrial 10T (made by Leitz)
3 skanky bottom dweller bludgeon-blades
my dado set is a DW7670

[Allen Bookout]

That is quite a project and an expensive one at that. Thanks for the information.

If you get bored and want to try out some more blades I would be interested in your evaluation of the Infinity blades. I use the WW11 mostly but tried out the Infinity rip blade yesterday on some red oak and was really impressed but do not have a Freud glue line rip to compare it to. It would also be interesting to compare their general purpose blade to the WW11.

Wish that I lived closer and I would loan you my rip blade.

[Doug Gilluley]

Come spring, I'll be in the market for a dado set. I'm curious how you'd rate your DW7670 and how others would rate their sets. BTW thanks for the chart. A lot of work on your part will save many of us some costly expermenting on our own.

Doug

[Jerry White]

Great chart, Scott! You probably have a singularly broad experience with a variety of blades. Thanks for sharing.

[Allen Bookout]

Come spring, I'll be in the market for a dado set. I'm curious how you'd rate your DW7670 and how others would rate their sets.

Doug

Doug,

I have the Freud SD608 Dial a Width and think that it is the cats meow. It cuts great and the adjustability without using shims is a really GREAT asset.

[scott spencer]

That is quite a project and an expensive one at that. Thanks for the information.

If you get bored and want to try out some more blades I would be interested in your evaluation of the Infinity blades. I use the WW11 mostly but tried out the Infinity rip blade yesterday on some red oak and was really impressed but do not have a Freud glue line rip to compare it to. It would also be interesting to compare their general purpose blade to the WW11.

Wish that I lived closer and I would loan you my rip blade.

Hi Allen - Fortunately, through some opportunistic and creative buying and selling, this unplanned endeavor wasn't all that expensive for me, or it probably wouldn't have happened! Some of the blades were borrowed, or I sought permission from owners before shipping them out. Some were bought in bulk and Ebayed except for mine. I even won one of the blades as a raffle prize!

There are several major highend brands I haven't had the chance to try, but would love the opportunity to do so some day! .... Infinity, CMT, Systematic, Everlast to name a few.

One valueable lesson I've taken from this is that similar designs made to similar quality levels, tend to have similar performance. Blades like the 40T WWII, TS2000, DW7657, and Gold Medal are just about indistinguishable for all intents and purposes. I'd expect similar performance from the Freud F410 or Infinity Super. Longevity is one aspect I can't compare in a few test cuts, but again, similar materials, design, and quality levels should yield roughly similar results. Blades like the WWII and TS2000 are bonafide American made high quality products that are still competitively price with even Asian made blades. This is a true opportunity to support American manufacturing without sacrificing a thing. Not everyone will put much weight into that philosophy, but assuming comparable performance, I view it as an advantage for Ridge Carbide and Forrest over the Japanese made Infinity and Gold Medal, Italian made CMT and F410, and the British made DW7657 (though the DW7657 is more attractively priced than the others). All except for the DW7657 retail in the $90-$100 range. Choice of kerfs is another non-performance consideration when making a selection. Some are only available in full kerf, which put more strain on smaller saws, and others only in thin kerf which is less appealing to 3hp cab saw owners. My theory is that performance wise, while several are excellent, I think it's rare to find a top notch blade with a similar design to others that significantly out performs it's competitors, so I look for non-performance advantages. That's where buying convenience, price, reputation, resale value, knowledge of the materials, parameters, and construction techniques, or even country of origin can be helpful in a buying decision. It's possible that my "snapshot" may not be as representative of the blades I haven't tried as I think, but it's probable...it'd be nice to get hands-on experience vs extrapolating on those, which of course is all you can do prior to using them.

[scott spencer]

Come spring, I'll be in the market for a dado set. I'm curious how you'd rate your DW7670 and how others would rate their sets. BTW thanks for the chart. A lot of work on your part will save many of us some costly expermenting on our own.

Doug

Hi Doug - My DW7670 has been excellent so far where the metal meets the wood. I previously owned a very well made SD208 that had very good performance. These two dados retail at similar price ranges (usually below $100), but they have very different designs.

The SD208 is more substantially built. It's heavier, the carbide is thicker, it has an anti-kick back design, but it has half the teeth as the DW. The DW is more similar in design to the Forrest, but with smaller carbide. The DW comes with a great carrying case, excellent shim stock, and the shims and blades are all stamped with size ID's, plus it has an additional 3/32" chipper. Most of the other high quality DW blades I've tried have been made in the UK, and I expected the same from this one, but was disappointed to see it made in China. Excellent performance for the price nonetheless.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0002ZU6X4.01.PT01._SS350_SCLZZZZZZZ_V61159250_.jp g

[Allen Bookout]

Hi Allen Blades like the WWII and TS2000 are bonafide American made high quality products that are still competitively price with even Asian made blades. This is a true opportunity to support American manufacturing without sacrificing a thing. Not everyone will put much weight into that philosophy, but assuming comparable performance, I view it as an advantage for Ridge Carbide and Forrest over the Japanese made Infinity and Gold Medal, Italian made CMT and F410, and the British made DW7657 (though the DW7657 is more attractively priced than the others).

I like buying American! I did not realize that the Infinity blades were maufactured out of the country. Now I know. Thanks! Allen

[Jim Becker]

3 skanky bottom dweller bludgeon-blades

Now THAT was colorful!!! Are these the ones with the fieldstone tips instead of carbide? :D

[Lori Kleinberg]

Thanks Scott for taking the time to test and report your findings. Very informative.

[Bill White]

I needed a ripper on the quick. Bought the Infinity 24t, and have been very pleased with the performance. Its a TK by BTW.
Bill

[scott spencer]

Now THAT was colorful!!! Are these the ones with the fieldstone tips instead of carbide? :D

Honestly Jim, I suspect those were the blades that left a bad taste in my mouth early on in my wwing hobby and inspired the quest to understand what it took to get a good cut from a blade. Even as a rookie I knew those blades cut like crud...but they were carbide tipped, and $20 seemed like a safe price range to get quality....turns out that $20 wasted is expensive! Better to invest $60 than toss $20... :rolleyes: Now I know!

[Mike Henderson]

Wow - good information. Thanks for putting that chart together. I also appreciate your comments about how similar quality blades perform in a similar fashion. Makes sense and it's nice to have you confirm that.

Mike

[bob starkey]

After using the Forrest WW2 it looks like I would have been just as happy with the Freud LU84. The Forrest WW2 does have one very nice thing about it to be considered a real plus. It runs very quietly as saw blades go with the 5" stablizer mounted to my Bridgewood 10"LTS. Thank you for the great chart and making me think about an important part of woodworking.

Bob

[scott spencer]

After using the Forrest WW2 it looks like I would have been just as happy with the Freud LU84. The Forrest WW2 does have one very nice thing about it to be considered a real plus. It runs very quietly as saw blades go with the 5" stablizer mounted to my Bridgewood 10"LTS. Thank you for the great chart and making me think about an important part of woodworking.

Bob

Hi Bob - Everybody's experiences are different to some degree, and preferences certainly vary, though I suspect the advantages fall to the WWII. Freud's direct competition to the WWII would be the F410, and soon their new Hi-ATB 40T blade which may just eclipse all general purp blades in cut quality because of the tooth design.

The LU84 was my first good blade, and it was a distinct improvement over my Oldham, Delta, and Vermont America blades that I had used previously. My WWII was a pretty clear improvement over the LU84 when I got it. In my case, things like the feed rate of the WWII was notably faster, and it rips more aggressively on my saws...it's possible a 3hp cab saw would yield different results. In cut quality, the LU84 leaves small saw marks, but they were visible with minor effort. To see the saw marks from the WWII, I literally have to hold the board up to bright light and look at a good angle to see them clearly. Either of these blades easily leaves a glue ready edge with low splintering in most applications, but I you'd have to pry the WWII from from my cold bloody hands! :D

[bob starkey]

After some time to think about it. I recall my 10" Freud blades were given the resharping treatment and blade tension stress removing and rebored to 20 mm. by a outfit in Arlington Texas called Texas Carbide. Also I was using a CY12 tablesaw that I remind myself from time to time I never should have sold. The Forrest WW2 is not going anywhere.
Bob

[John Miliunas]

Awesome job in compiling all that "real world" info, Scott! Thank you! :) You have been fortunate in being able to try so many different flavors out but, in sharing the info with those of us not quite as lucky is great. :D

In the FWIW topic, I caught where you noted not having tried out the SystiMatic blades. I ran them for quite a while on both, my TS and CMS. I think that, dollar for dollar, they're a great blade at an awesome price point (right around $50.00, give or take a few $$$'s). I will say that, once I switched over to the WWII's, I noted a marked improvement but, for a lower buck, the SystiMatics are worth a try. Also, if anyone is in the market for a dedicated rip blade, my nod goes to the 20-tooth Forest WWII. I recently picked one up (retail, I believe, is right @ $70.00) and man, can that thing go through the material! Even with the 20-tooth count, everything I ran under 6/4 was glue-up ready and the 8/4+ Black Walnut went through the blade so fast, I was virtually stunned! Like a hot knife through butta', I tell 'ya! :D Anyhow, thanks again for the great rundown! Very helpful!:) :cool:

[Chuck Wood]

Scott,

Thanks for the info. Very well needed! I'm in the market for a new blade for my TS. This will arm me we some useful information.
Thank you!:)

[Mike Parzych]

Scott - Your post is the reason I hang around these forums - to get practical, useful, hands-on knowledge - and this is probably the best I've seen in a long time. I also appreciate your inclusion of the "value" aspect, which is my criteria for buying in most cases.

P.S. - Anyone interested in buying some used Bottom Dwelling Blades?

[scott spencer]

Originally Posted by Allen Bookout
That is quite a project and an expensive one at that. Thanks for the information.

If you get bored and want to try out some more blades I would be interested in your evaluation of the Infinity blades. I use the WW11 mostly but tried out the Infinity rip blade yesterday on some red oak and was really impressed but do not have a Freud glue line rip to compare it to. It would also be interesting to compare their general purpose blade to the WW11.

Wish that I lived closer and I would loan you my rip blade.


...snip... Blades like the 40T WWII, TS2000, DW7657, and Gold Medal are just about indistinguishable for all intents and purposes. I'd expect similar performance from the Freud F410 or Infinity Super. Longevity is one aspect I can't compare in a few test cuts, but again, similar materials, design, and quality levels should yield roughly similar results. Blades like the WWII and TS2000 are bonafide American made high quality products that are still competitively price with even Asian made blades. This is a true opportunity to support American manufacturing without sacrificing a thing. Not everyone will put much weight into that philosophy, but assuming comparable performance, I view it as an advantage for Ridge Carbide and Forrest over the Japanese made Infinity and Gold Medal, Italian made CMT and F410, and the British made DW7657 (though the DW7657 is more attractively priced than the others). All except for the DW7657 retail in the $90-$100 range. Choice of kerfs is another non-performance consideration when making a selection. Some are only available in full kerf, which put more strain on smaller saws, and others only in thin kerf which is less appealing to 3hp cab saw owners. My theory is that performance wise, while several are excellent, I think it's rare to find a top notch blade with a similar design to others that significantly out performs it's competitors, so I look for non-performance advantages. That's where buying convenience, price, reputation, resale value, knowledge of the materials, parameters, and construction techniques, or even country of origin can be helpful in a buying decision. It's possible that my "snapshot" may not be as representative of the blades I haven't tried as I think, but it's probable...it'd be nice to get hands-on experience vs extrapolating on those, which of course is all you can do prior to using them.

Hi Allen - If I've got this info right, I stand corrected on the country of origin for the Infinity blades...those with the Nickel Armor™ coating are made in Italy, not Japan. I hope to have the chance to try one soon, and will be sure to post about my experience with it here.

[Allen Bookout]

Thanks Scott!

Allen

[Tom Pritchard]

Scott, I was a little disappointed that you were not eager to test out my 1979 Sears Craftsman Kromedge Rip Blade, Model #720-32012. Although it is an older blade, it is made by a subsidiary of the company that manufacturers the fine product seen in the first picture below.

The blade, seen in the second picture, is made of fine U.S. steel and carbide that resists all attempts to sharpen it, regardless of the cost. It's weight is appropriate for 10 HP or greater gas powered table saws, and is frequently used in UFO demonstrations.

As you can see in photo three, it takes a bit of gentle force to ram a pine 2x4 through it on a tablesaw, but as you can see in the final photo, it produces results acceptable for most beginners and makers of charcoal.

Please consider using it in your future tests, and I may even be persuaded to trade it for that Ridge Carbide that is collecting dust in your shop!:D

Great job on the comparisons pal! You da best!!!!:cool:

p.s. anchor.gif is SUPPOSED to be the first picture!!! Oh well.

[scott spencer]

The "burnished" edge (aka scorched) really shows off the diagonal medullary rays! ...oh wait, those a blade trenches! :D

Too bad Sears stopped offer those blades...they just don't make 'em like they used to! That Kromedge blade has an uncanny knack for making a Forrest WWII out of my Skil blade! :D

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Come spring, I'll be in the market for a dado set. I'm curious how you'd rate your DW7670 and how others would rate their sets. BTW thanks for the chart. A lot of work on your part will save many of us some costly expermenting on our own.

Doug


Take a look at the Ridge Carbide 10" guaranteed quality cut blade. I almost wish I didn't get the carbide insert Felder dado it's only 8"

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
A little BTT.
I have some extra $$ from Christmas and this chart goes a long way towards helping me part with it ;).
Thanks!

bookmark blade chart

[Rob krokus]

This was the post I have been searching for:) . Thank you for putting it together!

[James Manning]

Scott

Thanks for taking the time to put this all together........very helpful and a great quick reference spreadsheet! Please keep us posted with any updates to your sheet, I currently have several of the blades listed. My two favorite GP blades are the WWII & the F410 with a slight edge to the F410.........:)

James.

[Gene Howe]

Come spring, I'll be in the market for a dado set. I'm curious how you'd rate your DW7670 and how others would rate their sets. BTW thanks for the chart. A lot of work on your part will save many of us some costly expermenting on our own.

Doug

My experience with dado sets isn't extensive (just 4 different brands) but, after using the others, I chose the Tenyru. It 's great for dados and box joints.

[scott spencer]

For those interested, here's the most recent update (http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Table_Saw_Blade_Comparisons) to the original blade chart....even this one is still in need of another update, but finding the time is tough. :rolleyes:

Re: dado sets, I've now owned a steel Vermont American that I don't recommend, a good Freud SD208 (http://www99.epinions.com/review/Stack_Dado_Saw_Blade_Set/content_409966644868) 12T/2T, a very good DW7670 (http://www99.epinions.com/review/Dewalt_DW7670_8_Inch_Stacked_Dado/content_314538299012) 24T/4T that's a great value on sale in the $100 range, an excellent Systimatic Superfine 42T/6T (http://www99.epinions.com/review/Superfine_Dado_Set_37160_8_Diameter_42_Teeth_5_8_A rbor_13_16_Width/content_410171313796), and a mighty impressive Infinity Dadonator 24T/6T (http://www99.epinions.com/review/Infinity_Tools_Dadonator_Dado_Set_SDB_800_epi/content_450572553860) set.

All the above dado sets have ATB or ATB/R grinds on the cutters that leave anywhere from small to miniscule "bat ears"....only FTG cutters will leave a true flat bottom, but will also tend to have more tearout at the exit. The Dadonator is the cleanest cutting of those and leaves the flattest bottom, but all except the VA are more than adequate for good work. Of those I've tried, the 7670 gets the nod for value when on sale if you can stomach it being made in China, the Dadonator is best in terms of absolute quality. The Oshlun dado set is remarkably similar to the Systimatic set which is excellent, but I haven't tried one directly. FWIW, my 40T Oshlun blade is well made and performs nicely for the price, so if you extrapolate a little based on the design and the construction, I'd hazard a guess that it's pretty decent for the price.

[James White]

Scott,

Have you tried the Freud Fusion blades? How do they compare the the WWII and others in that category?

I posted this in the deal section.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?250045-Full-Kerf-Frued-Fusion-for-61-88!&p=2637966#post2637966

[scott spencer]

...This is a true opportunity to support American manufacturing without sacrificing a thing. Not everyone will put much weight into that philosophy, but assuming comparable performance, I view it as an advantage for Ridge Carbide and Forrest over the Japanese made Infinity and Gold Medal, Italian made CMT and F410, and the British made DW7657 (though the DW7657 is more attractively priced than the others). ...

I spotted a glaring error in this comment, that I feel needs to be corrected. David Venditto contacted me to let me know that the Infinity blades are not made in Japan as I had originally commented. They're designed in the USA and manufactured in Italy. Also worth mentioning is that Infinity was not among the list of blades that I originally compared. Since this original compilation of blades, I've had the chance to experiment with some Infinity blades and have found all that I've used to be top shelf quality and performance, with an impeccable fit and finish. If you're not familiar with the history of Infinity, it was started by David Venditto, the son of the legendary Carlo Venditto of Freud USA, CMT USA, and Jesada.

Also worth noting is that the DW7657 is no longer made in England, and is now sold as an American made Delta Industrial 35-7657, available dirt cheap at closeout prices for ~ $30 shipped.

[James White]

Since this is from 2006 here is a current comparison where the Freud fusion that can occasionally be had for $75 on Amazon came out on top.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/02/07/tool-test-tablesaw-combination-blades

(http://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/02/07/tool-test-tablesaw-combination-blades)

[Matt Day]

James you really like freud fusion blades!

By the way, the FWW article requires an online subscription to view, so many won’t be able to see it, like me.

[James White]

James you really like freud fusion blades!

By the way, the FWW article requires an online subscription to view, so many won’t be able to see it, like me.

I believe you can't beat them for the price. That is with the exception of the Delta Scott has alerted us to.

By the way I believe Fine Woodworking is made in the USA!:)

James

[Rick McQuay]

I bought a Fusion and it doesn't live up to the hype. It's good enough for the price, but I cannot get chipout free cuts in melamine like they claim and I get some crosshatching in rip cuts. It's a very good blade, but not a great blade.