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View Full Version : Nuther Elec. Question - Wiring DC Bin Level Sensor to Alarm Light



Doug Shepard
11-24-2006, 7:09 AM
I think I have this figured out but wanted to get some confirmation from the electrical cognosenti before I wire this up today. My Bin Level Sensor has 5 wires - 2 for 110V power, and 3 for the switch. The switch wires let you choose either Normally Closed or Normally Open and 1 wire just doesn't end up getting used. I'm pretty sure that I want Normally Open ??and that those 2 wires connect to the positive wire of the 12V wiring that runs the Flashing Alarm strobe light I've got. So I just cut the hot wire of the 12V power and connect the 2 ends up to the 2 switch wires from the bin sensor ?? And it doesn't really matter which switch wire goes to which end of the cut 12v wire?

Here's a pdf with the info on the sensor if that helps
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pdffiles/iom/level/dblm_iom.pdf
TIA

Michael Adelong
11-24-2006, 7:32 AM
That sounds correct Doug. When the switch closes, the strobe will get power. Either end of the cut wire can go to either connector of the switch (the common and "NO" posts - the "NC" post should be unused).I'm assuming that the power wire to the strobe (the one that you cut) is the actual power wire from the power source to the strobe (and that there is no separate control circuit to it).

If the strobe has it's own control circuit like a switch, then you may simply want to take the switch out and extend the wires to the switch in the bin sensor.

Good luck,
Michael

Doug Shepard
11-24-2006, 9:00 AM
...I'm assuming that the power wire to the strobe (the one that you cut) is the actual power wire from the power source to the strobe (and that there is no separate control circuit to it).
...


Correct. My power source is just a 12V adapter from a laptop PC (the brick) and the way I'm hooking it up, it goes straight to the strobe. I had it jury rigged to the strobe yesterday and everything works fine. I wont actually have to cut the wire, but it seemed easier to ask the question that way. I found a matching socket plug with solder terminals in a box of old parts so I can keep the power supply intact (the 12V cord is molded right into the brick, unlike the 110 cord which plugs into it).

Thanks for your help.