PDA

View Full Version : Blanks for HFs vs Bowls



Alex Cam
11-21-2006, 8:08 PM
I've watched Bill Grumbine's video several times, and I understand the process for cutting up a log for bowl blanks. Could someone explain to me what the process is for cutting a HF blank out of a log? Do you cut the blank and chuck it so that the end grain is in the chuck and the grain runs parallel to the bed, or on the side or ??

Mark Pruitt
11-21-2006, 8:35 PM
Alex, that has to do first of all with whether the HF is a bowl or a vase. Most of the time, a vase is oriented with the grain parallel to the ways where a bowl is oriented with the grain perpindicular to the ways. It's realy no different than with an "ordinary" bowl. What makes a HF different from an ordinary bowl is the type of turning tool used, and of course the technique. I hope that this helps to clarify it.

BTW, welcome to SMC!

edit: I should add that I am very much a beginner with this and you will get some answers from people with much more experience than me.

Jim Becker
11-21-2006, 9:53 PM
I greatly prefer end-grain orientation for hollow forms, especially since practically all hollowing systems/cutters are scrapers that are best suited to end-grain turning. (They still work in the alternative orientation, but not as effectively, especially where the grain switches...)

Where it gets interesting is "pith in" or "pith out" for these things. It depends on the species, but sometimes you can get away with the pith centered if you create a nice even and thin wall thickness. Some species will still develop radial cracking like this. The best way to avoid this is to start with a REALLY big log and cut out whatever size block you need without including the log pith.

My favorite for hollow forms, however, is burl...and I like to play with it between centers before committing to "which end is up" and where the base may be.

Ron Sardo
11-22-2006, 8:55 AM
I mostly turn HF with the grain running parallel to the ways. Wood is more stable that way.

But there is really no reason you can't turn a HF as you would turn a bowl. Yes it might warp a little, but sometimes that's the best part.

Experiment, it's only wood.

John Hart
11-22-2006, 11:31 AM
Yeah...I like to hollow into the endgrain....but like Jim says, I prefer burls the most.

Mark Pruitt
11-22-2006, 11:47 AM
I think you guys have told me why my HFs have been a bit of a PITB to turn.:rolleyes: But I will say that if you go to the Sorby website and check out the video clips you wil see a HF being turned from a "face-oriented" piece.

Here it is:

http://robertsorby.co.uk/SorbyMedia/RS200KT9.wmv

Bill Grumbine
11-22-2006, 1:45 PM
Hi Alex

I turn them in both directions, depending on the shape and the final effect I want. I like to turn squashed looking onion or southwestern shapes, and bowl orientation lends itself well to that. Taller vase or urn shapes do better in spindle orientation, if only because it is easier to get longer pieces that way.

Like Jim, I often go for burls for my hollow forms, but I turn enough regular wood in either direction to say that it doesn't matter a whole lot to me which way the wood is going.

Bill

Alex Cam
11-22-2006, 10:56 PM
Hi Alex

I turn them in both directions, depending on the shape and the final effect I want. I like to turn squashed looking onion or southwestern shapes, and bowl orientation lends itself well to that. Taller vase or urn shapes do better in spindle orientation, if only because it is easier to get longer pieces that way.

Like Jim, I often go for burls for my hollow forms, but I turn enough regular wood in either direction to say that it doesn't matter a whole lot to me which way the wood is going.

Bill

Thanks for the advice (everyone). Bill, your videos are great!

Bill Grumbine
11-23-2006, 8:49 AM
Thanks Alex, I am glad to hear you liked them!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Bill