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John Gornall
11-17-2006, 4:42 PM
Rethinking my tablesaw setup.

I have a typical Unisaw with 50 inch Unifence.

I find it interesting to hear people say they wish they had more “Rip” capacity and want a 50 inch fence. Seems to me when the fence is out at 30, 40, or 50 inches you are more likely to be cross cutting than ripping.

Someday it would be fun to have a board more than 40 inches wide that needed ripping but not likely.

Now if I rip a sheet of plywood down the middle to make 2 pieces 24” and I then want to crosscut them into 3 - 32 inch pieces I set the fence at 32” and cut. But then I have 2 problems, first, I am relying on the plywood being square which it often isn’t, and second this is a cut vulnerable to kickback.

So, it seems like a good idea to add a slider for cross cutting to make sure the piece is square and have a safer cut. I also believe this is a better setup than any miter gauge for cutting solid wood. I have bought a Jessem Mast-R-Slide.

After I install the slider just how much fence capacity do I need? I think 30 inches is plenty. I can rip plywood to any size down it’s length. I’m sure I won’t have any solid wood wider than 30”

So my plan is to cut the Unifence rail from 83” to 53” and move it to the right of the slider which gives me 30”fence capacity.

I will cut down the Uniguard to suit.

The left table extension will be moved to the right of the right extension table and I will only need a 12” table board.

The Jessem slider when installed and slid to the rear of the saw sticks out 13 inches so I’ll make a permanent outfeed table 13” x 48” and then add a 30” drop down outfeed table.

This leaves me with a compact saw setup about 60”x 56” with a lot of capability, both crosscut and rip.

I’ll rework the mobile base and it’ll be far easier to move around.

Am I missing anything?

David Giles
11-17-2006, 4:59 PM
Some of my cabinet sides have been in the 31" range. I'd suggest a 32" minimum capacity. I'm learning to roughcut 4x8 sheets into 48"x32" pieces with two crosscuts, then finish rip and crosscut to exact length. But your new slider sounds like a great solution.

John Gornall
11-17-2006, 5:15 PM
Checking my CAD drawing, when the Unifence main casting is out to the end of the rail I would have 32".

Steven J Corpstein
11-17-2006, 6:03 PM
John,
I have a General 650 that I added a Jessem slider onto last Winter. I absolutely love it.

I added a permanent outfeed section across the back and am hoping to finish the 32" folding section this Winter now that I've got the windows, etc. done.

Take a look at the following URL. The pictures pretty much explain how I did it.

http://www.datasystemsltd.com/outfeed

John Gornall
11-17-2006, 6:23 PM
Steven, well done!

Almost exactly what I have in mind.

So many good referances on the Jessem slider!

Bart Leetch
11-17-2006, 7:12 PM
In re-setting up my Dad's saw he insisted on having it so he could cut lower cabinet sides so we set the fence guide tube as far as we could to the right which ended up being 37".

glenn bradley
11-17-2006, 8:07 PM
I find 30" to be adequate 90% of the time but BOY would I love another 6" every now and then. Since you are cutting down, look at the sizes you may be using and give yourself just a bit more than that (you lucky dog).

Jim Becker
11-17-2006, 8:17 PM
In my thoughts...err...dreaming...of a Euro slider, I've come to the conclusion that I really wouldn't need 50" of rip and it would make for more space in the shop. I actually have used much of the 50" I have now a few times when sizing sheet stock, but that was "BF". (Before Festool)

Jim DeLaney
11-17-2006, 9:31 PM
Mine's at 36", and I've seldom found the need for more. 30" seems a bit short, though.

lou sansone
11-18-2006, 6:24 AM
I agree with jim.. for sliders, most of the action is on the left of the blade. you do need some room to the right for cross cutting 4 x 8, but you can do that off line if need be and then size it to accurate dimensions on the slider
lou

John Gornall
11-18-2006, 12:49 PM
At this time in my shop there's no helpers and no hurry. To cross cut a full sheet I pull the outfeed table 6 inches away from the saw, slide the sheet up onto the table and saw, measure and snap a line, then cut by hand with a course tooth Japanese type saw. Takes about a minute to cut across a 3/4 inch sheet. Little noise or dust and the exercise is good for me.

Roger Barga
11-18-2006, 5:33 PM
Hi John,

I also purchased the Mast-R-Slide for my 50" Unisaw and did pretty much what you are considering. I moved the left extension table to the right, and cut the rails on the right hand side to roughly 40". If I need to rip a sheet of plywood, I break out my Festool (circular saw) and guide rail. The slider and reduced footprint has really been an improvement for my small workspace.

Roger

Greg Sznajdruk
11-18-2006, 6:38 PM
I've got the same saw as John. I find that the last 20 to 30 inches of the extension table is where my measuring tape and square reside. Pretty expensive real estate for tape measure storage. Can't remember last time I ripped 50 inches.

Greg

John Gornall
11-18-2006, 7:02 PM
I'm chuckling to myself as I think that I probably haven't seen the last 20 inches of my extension table in years. In fact a few years back I cut a bit off the end of the table and cut a hole in the wall so I could slide the saw towards the wall letting the end of the fence rail go 6 inches into the wall. I needed another 6 inches of shop for something.

John Keane
11-18-2006, 10:59 PM
I have the same Unisaw setup. To solve my sheet plywood cutting problem I have the sheet cut in two 48 X 48 sheets. I built an outfeed table so that when I cut them at home I have that assist. Works for me.

Bart Leetch
11-18-2006, 11:14 PM
"48 X 48 sheets"?????:confused: :eek: :confused: :) ????