I need to replace my Uni already and maybe I want to get a thickness sander?......

[Mark Rios]

My recently purchased 4 year old Uni is fine, teriffic and a very welcome upgrade from my Ridgid. However, I've now cut a few 45's on some 3/4" plywood pieces and I didn't like the experience AT ALL! It's a right-tilt and my last saw was a left-tilt. When I got done with a couple of pieces I realized that I was very nervous about making those cuts. I'm not looking forward to ripping 45's on my face frame material.

So, since I'm FINALLY and unexpectedly getting some money that my ex was supposed to turn over to me 5 years ago, I thought I'd splurge and get a left-tilt saw and/or a thickness sander.

I've been thinking about the quality of the Uni and it's popularity lately and I was wondering.....What is a step up from the Uni? It's been around forever, it's a favorite of a large chunk of the WWing universe, and it has a reliable reputation year after year, right? Should I just get a left-tilt Uni or step up? What is a step up from a Unisaw? Is the next step one of the PM's or the Sawstop that we've been reading a lot about recently?

Thickness sander.........I worry pretty intensely (for my experience level :rolleyes: ) about my set-up on my router table so my cope-and-stick joints come out pretty good but they still need a little sanding most of the time, and sometimes a lot of sanding. :D (I'm anxious to see how my new Porter Cable 7518, Woodpecker PRL, Incra LS Super system combo works out for my doors on my current cabinet project.) Anyway, I very rarely make any doors over 18" wide so I'd be looking at a 20" sander but I know NOTHING about buying and/or using a thickness sander other than the difference between it and a thickness planer. Your opinions and suggestions on a sander please?


Thanks very much for your opinions and advice.

[Ken Werner]

Mark,
If I was going up from a uni, I'd take a serious look at the sawstop.

No connection have I.

Ken

[Barry Beech]

Keep the Uni, get yourself a Bies splitter, and then get the sander.

The Bies splitter is about $100. You don't have to worry as much about kick-back with it.

[Mark Rios]

I am thinking about the SS Ken, thanks.

Barry, I'm sorry if I wasn't clear; I"m not worried about kickback per se, I don't like the whole experience of ripping at an angle with the material under the blade and the finish of the cut that I get. I find that I need to learn new cutting techniques for using the right-tilt. I'd rather get a left-tilt and be comfortable while I'm cutting the angle cuts and be happy.:D I'm pretty sure that I'll be getting the sander as well though since I can see a need for it in my work plan. I just need to find a way to fit it in my mobile shop/trailer. Maybe I need to go buy that 8 x 24'er that I've been eyeing. ;) ;) ;)

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Mark, if your only concern with the current saw is bevel-ripping, you could:

Move the fence to the left of the blade, or
Use hold-down wheels or a stock feeder, or
Rip on a bandsaw, or
Something else I haven't thought of

I wouldn't base the decison to replace your saw entirely on one cutting operation.

Then again, if you want to upgrade, I think the SawStop would be a logical next step.

[Steve Bagi]

Rip to the left of the blade and get a drum sander.

[Matt Moore]

My vote: SawStop (http://www.sawstop.com)

See the thread Cabinet Saw Advice sought thread for lots of civilized discussion on the top 3 saws that would be considered an upgrade from the Uni.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45881

[Michael Fross]

My vote is also the sawstop. Even if it didn't have that great saftey break, it's still an amazing saw that I would probably spring for.

Now if I could only get them to give me one to eval it here, that would be the ticket... ;-)

Michael

[Richard Niemiec]

A more economical solution for a Unisaw may be the removable splitter that is a part of the overhead Uniguard assembly and works wonderfully. I bought one from a Delta service center when I lived in Charlotte NC; its Delta part number 1349941 and as I recall it cost about $25 or so, it works really well for me. It's designed to fit in place of the splitter guard assembly that comes with the saw, and has a knurled knob for quick removal for dado use, etc. It has anti kickback pawls as well.

RN

[adam quinn]

I cannot speak for the saw stop but I do like my PM66. It is a left tilt and the table top is superb. It is also made in the USA.

[Mike Wilkins]

Have you considered a Euro-style slider? While I don't have one (yet), the idea of the slider moving the workpiece past the blade is appealing. This set-up would keep both hands and the offcut away from the angled blade. These machines are available both with and without the outrigger for large pieces, which does most of the work.
Just another thought to muddy the waters.

[Bruce Page]

Mark, I usually work from the left side of the blade when doing angle cuts. I think it is just a matter of getting comfortable with it.
If somebody stole (God forbid!) my Unisaw I would take a serious look at the PM 2000 or the Saw Stop. As far as sanders go, I’ve been happy with my Delta 18/36

[Bart Leetch]

I am in the same situation now because I am making replacement cabinet doors & drawers with beveled edges for the apartments that we manage.

The old cabinets are chipboard with wood grain vinyl overlay. The vinyl is peeling off. So I came up with the fix of wood grained laminate over 5/8" plywood with the edges & back painted dark to match the existing doors & drawers.

This way I don't have to replace all the cabinets or doors & drawers in 56 apartments.

I am working on a plan for a sled with a removable stop so I can cut the plywood just a little over-sized & put the laminate on & then put it on the sled with a 90 degree stop cut the first bevel then put in a beveled stop flip the door around & cut the other side. All this will be on the left side of my right tilt Unisaw.

[Mike Spanbauer]

consider moving both wings to the left and using the Uni as an opposite the fence tilt saw is one option.

PM66, PM2000, Sawstop are the current leaders in the cabinet saw realm

Stepping up into Euro sliders opens a whole new realm.

Sanders? Many schools of thought... open end, closed end, drum, wide belt. It's a matter of $$$. One item in your post though, thickness sander. A thicknesser (or thickness sander) is generally an industrial class machine with wide belt sanding capability (as well as a whole lot of power to spare). I own a performax 22-44ST and use it often. I'm pleased with the performance of my sander, but it is NOT a thicknesser.

When I get into my new shop someday I will be trading the 22-44 in for a 15" open end wide belt. Completely different class of machine.

Mike

[joseph j shields]

Why not rout the bevel on your router table???

-jj

[Mark Rios]

Well, someone else brought up the DC requirements of a thickness sander and since I work out of my big trailer I don't have any DC (other than my big shop vac). So the thickness sander is out of the running , for now. I might look at a Festool sander. :eek:

My big tools need to be mobile in and out of my trailer so, even though I'd like to get a slider, I simply can't fit it into my workspace.

This is bonus money, so I just thought I'd treat myself to a shiny, brand new saw with the left-tilt that I'm used to, a riving knife, and if it happens to come with a brake, so much the better.

It will probably come down to a PM, 66 or 2000, or a Sawstop. I just don't know which. I guess my dogs and I will have to make a day trip and go see them at one of the WWing stores.

BTW all you CA folks, this means that there will be a great deal on a very lightly used, 4 year old Uni coming up. WITH the long or the short rail set-up (I have both but I just installed the short rail set-up), including the extra tables for each and the factory mobile base for each as well. ;) ;) ;)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Why not get a slider??
Seriously. If you want a better saw and you want the tilt to go off to your right, get a slider.

right tilt - - left tile I could never quite figure out which perspective people meant is the operator's right or the machine's right?? That's why I always say it in terms of operator's perspective. I want the blade to tilt off to my right. I stand on the side of the maching so the blade is on my right hand side. With a slider that is par for the course.

Sliders offer so very many other super advantages over a conventional saw. It's a huge list.

[Bart Leetch]

Why not get a slider??
.

Mark Rios "My big tools need to be mobile in and out of my trailer so, even though I'd like to get a slider, I simply can't fit it into my workspace."

[Mike Spanbauer]

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage_norm&product_id=43&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26

:D

mike

[Bart Leetch]

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage_norm&product_id=43&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26




C 26 is a full-scale, multi-function machining center

GENERAL TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION· Three independent 2.5HP motors – 230V-1Φ · Anodized aluminum sliding table · Swiss-made Tersa cutterhead in jointer/planer · Net weight (base machine): 551 lbs.
:D

mike

From what I see this isn't TV you have to read what is posted.


Mark said "My big tools need to be mobile in and out of my trailer so, even though I'd like to get a slider, I simply can't fit it into my workspace."

551 lbs. does this look like it would be easy to move in & out of a trailer????

Like I said I just don't understand.:confused: :eek: :confused:

[Mark Rios]

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage_norm&product_id=43&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26

:D

mike



I have one question, if I may?...........


Where does the toast come out?

:D :D :D

[rodney mitchell]

His current unisaw weighs more than that minimax.

RM

[John Hemenway]

Mark,

Don’t listen to the others. Right tilt Uni’s are COMPLETELY UNSAFE FOR BEVEL RIPS. You must get a SAFE saw!

Although I don’t relish the trip to the great central valley in tule fog times, I could take that UNSAFE saw off your hands.

Any idea what you might want for this UNSAFE saw? I wouldn’t think it would be much since it is UNSAFE, almost to the point of being DANGEROUS.

Let me know if you decide to sell it.

Living dangerously in Northern California,
John

[John Lucas]

Don't be fooled to think that the SS is any more safer than the Uni when it cmes t the makingof the bevel cuts. Kickback from a bevel cut is because of poor skills. If you had a kickback the SS wouldnt act any differently. You would still have the material thrown back at you.Spend a little money and save the Uni and make your cuts safer. Using a Incra Sled is the safest way to make 45 d cutoffs. For rips, use Grip-Tites (two) for holding down the workpiece.

[Hoa Dinh]

Mark,

I normally don't get into right-tilt/left-tilt discussion any more. But for you, I'll throw in my 2 cents':

If you want to upgrade from the Unisaw and have the fund, by all means do so. But don't base your decision solely on the tilt direction of the saw.

For bevel ripping NARROW pieces, you can move the fence to the left side of the blade. IMHO, this is NOT because greater danger of kickback if the fence is on the right side, it is because the blade tilting toward the fence leaves less room for your hand to push the narrow piece through the saw.

For bevel ripping wide pieces ("wide" being, say, 5"), leave the fence on the right side of the blade. People keep mentioning the greater danger of kickback but I haven't read anyone clearly explaining why. If you use a splitter, and the splitter is aligned with the right side of the blade, how can a piece trapped under the blade be kicked back? Kickback happens when the workpiece wanders in the path of the trailing edge or the top edge of the spinning blade and thus gets thrown back toward the operator. With the splitter in place, the workpiece has NO way to wander in the path of the blade.

If the lumber has internal stress and jam the blade, it may stall the motor. But this also happens with straight rip, and with a left tilt blade.

I'd say use the saw for a little while, and learn how to bevel rip safely. And if you still want a better saw, take your time. You can easily unload the Unisaw any time you want.

BTW, my saw is a right-tilt and I have no rip capability on the left side of the blade because I chopped off the front rail to install a sliding table. If I need to bevel rip narrow pieces, I use a pair of GRR-Rippers.