OT: Need help identifying a type of electric connector

[Doug Shepard]

I'm trying to find a certain type of electrical connector but am having no luck with online searches - primarily because I dont what these are called.
What I'm looking for is like 2 opposing L's that slide together with a male connector pin sticking out of the short leg of the L's that slides into a socket on the longer side of the opposing L. I know I've seen these on auto wiring, but have looked on auto parts sites also with no luck. Anybody know what these darn things are called?

[Kent Fitzgerald]

You mean, like, a two pole trailer connector?

Scroll or search down to Product 42:
http://www.lowcosttrailersupplies.com/trailer-parts-lights-electrical-8.html

[Doug Shepard]

You mean, like, a two pole trailer connector?

Scroll or search down to Product 42:
http://www.lowcosttrailersupplies.com/trailer-parts-lights-electrical-8.html

Kent - Thanks. That's EXACTLY the type I was talking about. Now that I know what they're called, I should be able to find something. I have to double check the items I'm wiring up but I think I need a version with 14 or 16 gauge wire. Think maybe I'll try including 'trailer wiring' in my search. That might help me narrow things down a bit.

Muchos gracias

[Matt Meiser]

This is for a low voltage application, I hope? If so, the trailer connectors are available at Murray's and Autozone. Both have them in 2 and 4 pole. Look by the trailer stuff, not the electrical stuff--DAMHIKT.

[Doug Shepard]

This is for a low voltage application, I hope? If so, the trailer connectors are available at Murray's and Autozone. Both have them in 2 and 4 pole. Look by the trailer stuff, not the electrical stuff--DAMHIKT.

Cool. I can swing by Murray's tomorrow and see what I can find. For sure one use is low voltage and wont have any problem with the 18-gage example that Kent found. It's for the 12-volt emergency strobe light that goes off when my DC bin gets full. The other use is for the Dwyer bin sensor motor and switch wires. I checked and it's also 18-gauge. Two wires are 110V but the current is ?? I can only find specs on the 220V version, and that one is 3A. The Power consumption is 1.5 Watts. The 2 wires for the switch I wasn't too worried about. I was originally thinking of taking the 2 power wires straight to an AC plug, but wouldn't mind hooking the whole thing up to the 4-pole version of the connectors if the 110V isn't too much for it.
What do you think?

[Robert Mickley]

tons of stuff to be found here too

http://www.delcity.net/

Same thing as #42

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=8873&page=1
But they are only .36 here :D Less than a third the cost

[Doug Shepard]

tons of stuff to be found here too

http://www.delcity.net/

Same thing as #42

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=8873&page=1
But they are only .36 here :D Less than a third the cost

Yeah - things were looking real nice on their site - even 16 gauge wire instead of 18. But then I noticed they have a $25 minimum order. Unless I can think of $20+ worth of other stuff I need, I think I'll have to pass them up for now. I bookmarked them for the future though. Thanks.

[Robert Mickley]

Heh, I never noticed, but then the last time I ordered it was $50 or $60.
I hate having to run out and get connectors in the middle of fixing something

[Matt Meiser]

Doug, I wouldn't use those connectors for 110V as they are not rated for that use. I don't think that they would be very safe as there can be exposed "hot" conductors as you connect them.

Radio Shack sells these (http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032286&cp=2032058.2032231) which are rated for up to 8A at 250V.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

I was originally thinking of taking the 2 power wires straight to an AC plug, but wouldn't mind hooking the whole thing up to the 4-pole version of the connectors if the 110V isn't too much for it.
What do you think?
Doug, those trailer-style connectors are for low voltage use only. The exposed pin is a shock hazard.

[Rob Russell]

Doug,

What is the application here - how is the wiring being used? Curious minds are inquiring ...

Rob

[Doug Shepard]

Doug,

What is the application here - how is the wiring being used? Curious minds are inquiring ...

Rob
Rob. My 3rd post covered some of it, but here's a pic of the main portion. This is my DC barrel with the Dwyer Bin Level Sensor mounted on top. It's only got a short wiring pigtail and wont quite reach the electric hookup. Plus I dont want to hardwire it in case I want to unhook the 6" hose clamp and remove the whole drum from the DC closet with the lid still attached. 2 of the 4 wires coming out of the pigtail are the 110V to run the motor. The other ones are the Normally Open switch pair that will complete the 12V circuit that turns on a small 12V flashing strobe light.
50066
The other use that I'm not worried about is for the strobe light itself. It will be mounted to the header of the DC closet over the door. I built the header (and the whole DC closet) to allow it to be unbolted as one big piece. If I have to disassemble the DC closet to get at the cyclone for motor maintainence I want to be able to unplug it up near the header and have the light stay attached to the header.



Doug, I wouldn't use those connectors for 110V as they are not rated for that use. I don't think that they would be very safe as there can be exposed "hot" conductors as you connect them.

Radio Shack sells these (http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032286&cp=2032058.2032231) which are rated for up to 8A at 250V.

Matt - Thanks. I actually juist got back from Murrays and found both a 4-pole and 2-pole setup that I think will work, but will return it and get the RS type if you think I need to. One other item I didn't mention is this: The outlet that will provide power to the Dwyer is switched to go off/on with the cyclone. The 110V that runs my contactor coil is the same circuit that powers that outlet. I'm not getting my 110V for the contactor from the same circuit as the 220V for the cyclone. That way I dont have to have separate switches to turn on/off with the cyclone. The Dwyer, the 12V adapter for the strobe light, and whatever else I plug into the switched outlet will go on or off along with the cyclone. I cant think of a case where I'd ever try to unplug the harness plug with the DC running so I think the hot conductor issue probably doesn't apply in this case, but... ?
The RS type says it handles up to 18-gauge wire. The ones I picked up at Murrays look to be 16-gauge. Still think I should return it and get the RS type or should I be OK as long as I'm only plugging or unplugging with the circuit turned off?
Here's a pic of the setup. The LH box is the switched one that goes on/off with the DC contactor switch coil. The RH box is on another 110V circuit and is always hot. The top box has the contactor and 220 connections inside.
50067

[Matt Meiser]

I would be pretty nervous about using a connector designed for 12V use in a 120V situation. Better safe than sorry in my opinion. You may not plan to disconnect that plug with power connected, but the possibility exists that it could happen.

You said the bin indicator is 1W, which is only like 9mA, so the 18 ga wire would be fine. You could put a couple amp fuse on the whole bin indicator circuit to be safe--Radio Shack could help you with an appropriate holder and fuse for that.

[Doug Shepard]

Gotcha. Looks like a trip to RS is in store.