Trim router question...

[David Rose]

I have a 3HP router for the table and a 2 & 1/4HP for normal use. Tonight, I realized that I have many fixtures and jigs that have square edges. They would be more pleasant to handle and work with if the corners were rounded. Being assembled, that would be a feat for a regular router or the table for some of them.

Never having used a trim router, I wonder a couple of things. Can you just hold them in one hand (small roundover bit) and zip them around and over edges? Or is the tool one which should receive careful, focused attention? I'm not advocating carelessness. That bit is close to your hand with a small base. But will it run steadily enough over the edge of a 3/4" board to cut passable roundovers? I'm not thinking furniture here but more fixtures which don't have to be near perfect IMO.

David, who after being quarantined from the shop for two months is needing a tool almost as much as to get to work

[Jim DeLaney]

I have two Bosch trim routers (laminate trimmers). I keep a 18" roundover in one, and a 1/4" roundover in the other almost all the time. I find them very handy for quickly softening the edges of various projects.

They do have very small bases, and will 'tip' easily if you don't pay attention to what you're doing, but I don't perceive tham as any more (or any less) dangerous than any other router.

[David Rose]

Hey Jim, I was going to ask for what folks liked too, but you beat me to it. Thanks.

One question though. With a 2 or 3" base, isn't that 18" roundover at least a "little" more dangerous than a big router? :D You must work some pretty large timbers. ;)

Do you find it feasible to run the base along the edge of a 3/4" piece? I can't see how you could feel the surface with a larger router, though I've never tried. I can see how it might work with the trimmer.

David, who rarely finds wood over 3" thick


I have two Bosch trim routers (laminate trimmers). I keep a 18" roundover in one, and a 1/4" roundover in the other almost all the time. I find them very handy for quickly softening the edges of various projects.

They do have very small bases, and will 'tip' easily if you don't pay attention to what you're doing, but I don't perceive tham as any more (or any less) dangerous than any other router.

[Steve Clardy]

David, I have two of the porter cable trim routers. One is the full fledged lamanite trim kit with 4 bases. The other is just the standard 7310 with straight base. These are all I use when rounding over edges. It isn't to difficult to round over the 3/4" edges, theres more feel to them than say a standand 1 1/2 -2 hp router. Theres hardly a day goes by that I do not use them, whether its rounding over door edges, making trim, etc.
I think if you'll do some shopping, some of the 7310 pc are down from $110.00 to around $60.00. I think those deals are at The big boxes where they are closing out some tools. Seen someone post that they had acquired one for that price. As usual though, theres always Ebay too.
Ps, I don't believe I'd try the 18" bit in these either. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Steve

[Jim DeLaney]

Hey Jim, ...isn't that 18" roundover at least a "little" more dangerous than a big router? :D You must work some pretty large timbers. ;)

Do you find it feasible to run the base along the edge of a 3/4" piece? I can't see how you could feel the surface with a larger router, though I've never tried. I can see how it might work with the trimmer.


Make that 1/8"...

As for doing the edge of a 3/4" board, I think it's actually easier with a trim router. There's less weight and height to keep balanced atop the narrow edge.

As I said, I have the two Boschs, but if I were buying new, I'd look at the PC. The little PC has a base that will accept the standard guide bushings, and that could come in handy for some template work - especially with a 1/8" bit and an inlay template set.

[David Rose]

Steve,

Which of those do you find easier to handle? Or maybe I should say which "fits your hand better". On a tool like this that is important to me and no one around here has more than two or three choices to try.

David


David, I have two of the porter cable trim routers. One is the full fledged lamanite trim kit with 4 bases. The other is just the standard 7310 with straight base. These are all I use when rounding over edges. It isn't to difficult to round over the 3/4" edges, theres more feel to them than say a standand 1 1/2 -2 hp router. Theres hardly a day goes by that I do not use them, whether its rounding over door edges, making trim, etc.
I think if you'll do some shopping, some of the 7310 pc are down from $110.00 to around $60.00. I think those deals are at The big boxes where they are closing out some tools. Seen someone post that they had acquired one for that price. As usual though, theres always Ebay too.
Ps, I don't believe I'd try the 18" bit in these either. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Steve

[David Rose]

The bushing base is a good point. I'll keep that in mind as I start hunting. That is what I was thinking about the balance of a trimmer.

Aw shucks! It was much more fun trying to figure out what an 18" roundover was. Just funnin' ya! :) You know, it could have just been a fraction of the arc more befitting the tool. But then it wouldn't be a roundover, or would it?

David


Make that 1/8"...

As for doing the edge of a 3/4" board, I think it's actually easier with a trim router. There's less weight and height to keep balanced atop the narrow edge.

As I said, I have the two Boschs, but if I were buying new, I'd look at the PC. The little PC has a base that will accept the standard guide bushings, and that could come in handy for some template work - especially with a 1/8" bit and an inlay template set.

[Steve Clardy]

David. Both of mine are the same router. Right one is the basic 7310 with straight base. Left one is the lamanite kit, with three other bases. One for scribing lamanite to walls, one is a angle base, and there is a base for making a seam to join lamanite.
Don't remember the kit#, but I paid around $210.00 for it. The regular 7310 was $100.00 when I purchased it.
If you have a need for different bases I would suggest the kit, as If you buy extras bases, they are high, $50.00-70.00 each, so the savings add up quick with a complete kit.
I like the feel of these routers, they are small and lightweight to handle.
Now to throw you another one, PC makes another trim router, a 310. It's a little larger, heavier duty for the big boys, and you can get different bases too. Quite a bit higher though.
Do a goggle search with these numbers, or go to Portercable.com. Should be some pictures there.
And as Jim said, they use the same guide bushings as the 690 series routers.

[David Rose]

Steve I did some searching. Which base(s) do you use? Without having had one, I'm not sure I'll want it for more than softening edges. But you know how that goes. :rolleyes: I usually end up with all the accessories for most tools I buy.

I've seen the 310 advertised as more of a workhorse. It is a little lower amperage, but that doesn't mean much. I'll read the reviews off Amazon on both tonight.

I went through this process on these a while back, but cooled my wants before I spent the money. Wow! Can't believe I actually did that. But... it's baaaaaack! I guess if you keep seeing the need for a tool it's time to get serious. :D

David


David. Both of mine are the same router. Right one is the basic 7310 with straight base. Left one is the lamanite kit, with three other bases. One for scribing lamanite to walls, one is a angle base, and there is a base for making a seam to join lamanite.
Don't remember the kit#, but I paid around $210.00 for it. The regular 7310 was $100.00 when I purchased it.
If you have a need for different bases I would suggest the kit, as If you buy extras bases, they are high, $50.00-70.00 each, so the savings add up quick with a complete kit.
I like the feel of these routers, they are small and lightweight to handle.
Now to throw you another one, PC makes another trim router, a 310. It's a little larger, heavier duty for the big boys, and you can get different bases too. Quite a bit higher though.
Do a goggle search with these numbers, or go to Portercable.com. Should be some pictures there.
And as Jim said, they use the same guide bushings as the 690 series routers.

[Steve Clardy]

David, if you do not do lamaninte work then you do not need the scribe base or the seemer base. These 7310 's come with a standard base as in the pic on the router to the right. You might also consider the angle base. It actually tilts, giving you the option of using some of your straight bits at an angle, for different looking cuts.
But price both ways. If you buy a seperate router, then add another base, you are approaching the price of the whole kit with four bases.
I have never seen the advantage of going to a 310 router, as these 7310's do all I want them too.
I understand the tool buying binges. I have those all the time. After all those Jorgenson clamp sales, I'm going to have to build another wall somewhere to hang these things. Out of wall space. Steve

[David Rose]

I don't know if the borgs here carry the kits. I'll have to do some calling and probably "going". If they are closing them out here, it might still be a savings if I only need one base.

Steve, how about floor space? I built an a-frame wheeled carriage that I like better than wall mounting. It's 2x3' and holds a lot of clamps. I would sure like to find a way to use my wasted ceiling space. It is 10' high with hanging lights all over the place.

David


David, if you do not do lamaninte work then you do not need the scribe base or the seemer base. These 7310 's come with a standard base as in the pic on the router to the right. You might also consider the angle base. It actually tilts, giving you the option of using some of your straight bits at an angle, for different looking cuts.
But price both ways. If you buy a seperate router, then add another base, you are approaching the price of the whole kit with four bases.
I have never seen the advantage of going to a 310 router, as these 7310's do all I want them too.
I understand the tool buying binges. I have those all the time. After all those Jorgenson clamp sales, I'm going to have to build another wall somewhere to hang these things. Out of wall space. Steve

[Steve Clardy]

I don't know if the borgs here carry the kits. I'll have to do some calling and probably "going". If they are closing them out here, it might still be a savings if I only need one base.

Steve, how about floor space? I built an a-frame wheeled carriage that I like better than wall mounting. It's 2x3' and holds a lot of clamps. I would sure like to find a way to use my wasted ceiling space. It is 10' high with hanging lights all over the place.

David
Out of floor space too. I am planning a 16x64 addition next year. Move all of my mechanical stuff over there and have a built in spray booth too.

[David Rose]

...drool, slobber, drool... That's what happens when you buy too many tools! :D

David


Out of floor space too. I am planning a 16x64 addition next year. Move all of my mechanical stuff over there and have a built in spray booth too.

[Howard Rosenberg]

Most trim routers will fit most people's hands, but you should also factor in ease of height adjustment (and minimal backlash once you've set it)especially if you're using it for rounding-over edges.

The other thing to consider is visibility - of the bit and base. I use mine for creating templates. I settled on the Makita with the transparent rack-and-pinion adjustable base so I could see my pencil lines.

You'll find more uses for your trim router as you start using it more often and there's nothing worse than trying to follow a line and the base is cramped and dark (hey, that's starting to sound like my brain!).

My 2c. Howard

[Curt Harms]

I have a 7310 and find it easy to use and plenty powerful. There are two things I'd improve (don't know how :( ) Being able to see a line when for instance routing a hinge mortise and the height adjustment doesn't work as well as the larger PC routers. Visibility is limited to a hole about 11/2" in diameter. I put a clear sub base on the base but it didn't really help. The 7310 uses a threaded knob captured in the base. It works, but it doesn't seem optimum. HTH

Curt

[Hoa Dinh]

I've seen the 310 advertised as more of a workhorse. It is a little lower amperage, but that doesn't mean much.

No, David, the advantage of the 310 over the 7310 is not the power, rather, it is inherent in the design.

In the 7310 and most other trim routers (Bosch, Dewat, ...), the motor is attached to the base by one screw on a side of the motor. This design makes adjusting the motor up and down less accurate because of the backlash in the screw. If you are patient, this may not be a big problem. But more importantly, this design can't guarantee the motor (thus the collet, thus the bit shrank) to be perpendicular to the base. For example, when you use a 1/4" roundover bit, if you rotate the router, you may have a "decorative bead" on the workpiece.

The 310 is designed as a "real" router. It is very similar to the Dewalt 618 (better than the PC690) in terms of bit height adjustment. The design warrants the perpendicularness (is it a word?) of the motor and the base. The 310 is also a bit fatter and has a lower center of gravity than most trim routers, making it more stable.

I paid $175 for a PC7311 kit (with 4 bases) from my local PC Service Center. They promised me a recon'ed kit but someone there had accidentally sold it to someone else. They gave me a new kit with recon'ed price. Can't complain.

Frankly, if I were to do it over again, I'd get the PC310 instead. The last time I checked, it was $140 recon'ed price.

[David Rose]

Howard and Curt, thanks for broadening my thinking a bit. I do make templates frequently and never considered that backlash might exist! I need to slow down the urge to buy and check out more trimmers.

David

[David Rose]

Hoa, thanks for giving me the reason for the backlash and what it meant.

I think you've helped me rule out the 7310. It seems that I am going to have to find a place, if possible, where I can examine the trimmers a little better. I know there are reasonable limits, but I don't like slop and slack and lack of precision in my tools. I also realize that I am a woodworker only because I can afford a few tools. Every tool I own requires some technique, but I want as little of that required as reasonable.

I will try to find a 310 and Makita to handle.

David


No, David, the advantage of the 310 over the 7310 is not the power, rather, it is inherent in the design.

In the 7310 and most other trim routers (Bosch, Dewat, ...), the motor is attached to the base by one screw on a side of the motor. This design makes adjusting the motor up and down less accurate because of the backlash in the screw. If you are patient, this may not be a big problem. But more importantly, this design can't guarantee the motor (thus the collet, thus the bit shrank) to be perpendicular to the base. For example, when you use a 1/4" roundover bit, if you rotate the router, you may have a "decorative bead" on the workpiece.

The 310 is designed as a "real" router. It is very similar to the Dewalt 618 (better than the PC690) in terms of bit height adjustment. The design warrants the perpendicularness (is it a word?) of the motor and the base. The 310 is also a bit fatter and has a lower center of gravity than most trim routers, making it more stable.

I paid $175 for a PC7311 kit (with 4 bases) from my local PC Service Center. They promised me a recon'ed kit but someone there had accidentally sold it to someone else. They gave me a new kit with recon'ed price. Can't complain.

Frankly, if I were to do it over again, I'd would get the PC310 instead. The last time I checked, it was $140 recon'ed price.