Jointer questions

[Lou Ferrarini]

I am thinking of upgrading from my 6" jointer to an 8". I have been looking at these two:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0586

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0490

I would like to know if anyone here has used the dispos-a-blade system from Grizzly. It appears to do away with the problems of getting the knives set, which always seems to take me forever.

The thing is, I like the specs on the G0490 but they don't seem to offer the the dispos-a-blade system on this jointer:

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/55

They do offer it on the 586. If you were in the market for one of these, would this affect your decision? As always, thanks for any info in advance. The knowledge I have gleaned from this site is very appreciated.

Lou

[Harley Lewis]

Lou, I have the G0586, and it is a great machine. For me, the dispose a blade system would be a waste of money. Using guages, I can set the four blades in just a few minutes using the jack screws. If a person were a production shop perhaps the dispose a blade would be worth while, but when a person changes blades perhaps twice a year like I do, it is not worth it.

The advantages of the GO490 are the built in wheels and the parallelagram beds. If I were to be buying now,I would probably go with this jointer.

[CPeter James]

I have the Delta DJ20 and I would definitely go with the G0490. Learn to set the knives and you will be ahead of the game. Setting the knives is not rocket science as many would have you believe. There are many ways to do it. If your jointer has jack screws, you can do a good job with with nothing more than a flat stick of wood. If you want to get fancier, get an inexpensive dial indicator and use that. I have a magnetic jointer knife setting jig made by Woodstock International. It is quick and easy and does a good job. The cost is reasonable.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-International-G3360-Jointer-Polycarbonate/dp/B0000DD1NL/sr=1-2/qid=1162916120/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/102-3650232-4304938?ie=UTF8&s=hi

CPeter

[Steven Wilson]

I have a tersa cutterhead on my jointer/planer and the quick blade changes are great. I throw and older set of blades in for rough thicknessing and jointing and then plop in a set of fairly new blades for the final pass or two. I was fairly proficient setting the blades on my PM60 but the Tersa style (and similar from other manufacturers) cutterhead is just so much easier, accurate, and repeatable.

[D. Hunt]

I agree with the above poster. Forget the blade system and learn to set the knives without. The stick method is usually preferred and advised and for a good reason. I had always had trouble setting blades until I learned how to set with the stick method. I recently bought a G0490 (nice machine) and the blades were not set right on the machine. I had a lot of scalloping from the way they had them set. I used the stick method and stuck with it til I had them set right. End result, no scalloping (ridges). Before, I bought the G0490 I had a 6" Grizzly 1182Z. I had always set the blades with a dial indicator and never got the results I expected and that was with a lot of time invested. You can literally set the blades in a fraction of the time with the stick method and get better results. The only tools you really need to tune up a jointer are a nice straight edge (to set the tables), feeler gauges (not a necessity but nice to have),an accurate square (to set the fence) and then make yourself a flat stick (to set the knives). If you have those 3 tools and the flat stick, you can feel confident in tuning up and setting the knives in your jointer. Repeating what was said, it's not Rocket Science but if you don't get the results you expect it can feel like it. Below are a few links. One demonstrating the stick method and another for a reliable straight edge if you don't have one.

http://woodworking.homeip.net/wood/Tuning%20Tools/Jointers/Step%203.html

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313

To answer your question, I went with the parallelogram tables after running into some problems with the dovetail ways on my 6" jointer. I don't believe they were machined right. If you do upgrade to an 8", they are very heavy and you will need multiple people to help you unload and put the table on the base. The shipping weight on the G0490 tables is 410 lbs. and very awkward because the tables are so long. That's just the tables!!! I had 2 other people outside of myself to help put it on the base. The truck driver and myself lifted it off of the semi into my truck (only a 1-1/2' difference in height). Whichever you go with I'm sure it will serve it's purpose and a very reliable machine. Good luck.

If you need some help with the knives PM away and I'll do what I can to help.

Darrrell

[Lou Ferrarini]

Wow I like that stick idea. I am going to try it on my 6".

Thanks for the info.

[Ted Miller]

Lou, I agree with the guys above, after setting blades for quite a few years with a perfect machinist level and you will get them done in minutes, hopefully with no blood spills, I think I still have scars from the first few times of blade changes.

As for the Griz, I like the 2hp 8" but I found too many tables with too high of tolerance, and I saw a few bowed fences...