What kind of finish for my coffee table??

[Derek Foster]

Need a little advice on finishing an ash coffee table. I’m not really sure on what type of finish is going to fit my requirements. Here is what I’m looking for:


Durability – I have a one year old boy. Enough said right? I need this to be either REALLY durable, or easy to repair. I’m pretty much resigned to the fact that the table is going to show wear.
Color – The wood is white ash, I would like it to be a nice amber color.
Fumes – Polyurethane would be my first instinct for a finish, but I am concerned about the smell. I live in NH and its getting a little cold. I have to finish this in the basement, so if it needs to be really well ventilated, it might get a little cold (not sure about Polyurethane’s temp requirements).
Application – I’m not a pro (yet) so I would want a fairly easy to apply finish. Thus far I have finished in Polyurethane and Polycrylic (water based). Spraying is not an option unless it comes in an aerosol can.
That’s about it. Hopefully some of you pro’s can tell me what finish is going to fit the bill. Thanks a lot!

Derek

[Bob Wingard]

Ash is open-grained, so if you brush on poly full strength, there's a good chance you'll wind up with a thick, plastic-looking finish full of air bubbles.

The curing process of poly is exothermic .. it gives off heat .. heat causes air to expand. You have air trapped deep inside the open pores of the ash, so if you apply a thick coat of finish, the heat of curing causes the air to expand in an attempt to get out, but it gets trapped in the thick finish.

My solution .. and it has been flawless for me thus far .. ..
Choose whatever brand of poly or tung you wish .. I like McClosky's or Red Devil .. use whatever is available to you. Thin a small amount of finish (4-5oz) approx. 1 part finish to 3 parts VM&P Naptha. Any suitable solvent will work, but I like the characteristics of Naptha. Odor is not too strong, and it dries quickly. With a piece of an old t-shirt soaked in finish, apply thoroughly allowing the wood to take in all it wants. The lower viscosity of the thinned finish allows it to seep into the pores, displacing the air, and allows the finish to partially fill the grain. You can apply about 3 coats of this finish per day without sanding/scuffing in between. Scuff the finish SLIGHTLY if you have to leave it more than about 20-24 hours without any topcoats .. this will give subsequent coats some "tooth" to grab onto the old finish. Just a few swipes with steel wool or a woven pad to slightly dull the finish is all that's necessary.

Depending on the size of the project, and the amount of finish it has soaked up, you can doctor up your left-over preparation by adding more poly/Naptha only for the last 3-4 coats, you can thin it about 50/50 so it builds a bit faster.

The entire finishing process should only take a few minutes, three times a day or so, depending on your schedule. You can apply as many or as few coats as you like in order to attain your desired look. Applied in this manner, poly will NEVER look plastic or gaudy .. it will resemble a rubbed oil finish with a bit of amber that you mentioned.

I keep my prepared finish in a jar and place the t-shirt material in the same jar between sessions .. no added expense and no brushes to clean. Most of the time, the top coat does not need to be sanded or rubbed out. If you want a satin finish, be sure to use gloss for all but the last 2-3 coats .. if you use satin all the way thru, it can give a hazy, flat look to the project because the flatting agent is too dense and it obscures the grain slightly. If all you have is satiin finish to work with, let it sit undisturbed for a few days, and the flatting agent will settle to the bottom of the can, and you can decant some of the clear poly off of the top.

Although I've been using this method for years, I've never seen it in print and I can't believe no one else has tried it .. .. trust me, it yields beautiful results with minimum of effort and gives plenty of protection.

[Derek Foster]

What about BLO then Shellac? Would that be very durable and does Shellac smell as bad as poly?

[Jim Becker]

Shellac doesn't smell at all once the alcohol flashes off. It's durable to a point, but not to the extent that a varnish or water borne acrylic will be. Shellac will also "ring" under certain circumstances that are kicked up a notch when kids are involved. My walnut natural edge coffee table was finished in shellac and it held up reasonably well with the kids, but when I brought it into the shop to repair some physical damage from a falling lamp (Dr. SWMBO knocked it over, not the kids... :) ), I coated it with Target USL at the same time I was putting the final finish on my natural edge walnut bench fo the kitchen.

[Derek Foster]

thanks for all the replies! I have chosen to go the Shellac route, namely because it doesn't smell as bad, is easier to repair, and I want to try something new. :D