Single Drawer Shaker Table, Norm Style

[Martin Shupe]

The last time I posted pics, it was two hours of frustration. Now, after reading Vaughn's fine tutorial, I am going to try another attempt. Thanks, Vaughn, for your good work.

I am known as the slowest woodworker in the west, but recently my wife has told me that I am not allowed to start new projects until I complete my backlog. So, I am attempting to do just that.

I actually finished this table last year, after starting it in early 2004. It is loosely based on Norm's Shaker (of course) bedside table, with the dimensions stretched a little bit.

The legs are 26 inches tall, with a 3/4 inch top, for a total of 26 and 3/4, about right for a nightstand or table next to a chair.

There are some things I would now do differently. Notice the rails above and below the drawer are orientated vertically. After attending Kelly Mehler's writing desk class, I now orient my rails above and below my drawers horizontally. This piece also has round pegs to lock the tennons, now I use square sometimes, although most of the Shaker pieces I have seen use round.

The drawers have hand cut dovetails. When I practice, I can do some fairly decent ones, but if I don't do them for a few months, I get worse. I think if I did them everyday, it would help a lot.

The first pic I will attempt shows the front quarter view of the table.

[Martin Shupe]

The second shot shows a view of the open drawer with some hand cut dovetails. You can also see the bullnose edge treatment on the top.

The inside front of the drawer has a cove cut out, another technique learned from Kelly Mehler. You can barely see the knob that I turned myself after excellent instruction from the esteemed Bill Grumbine.

On my next table, I would reduce the front overhang, to allow easier access to the drawer.

[Martin Shupe]

Here is the third and final shot, which shows off the bookmatched cherry top with some knots that I like. The top started out about 16 x 24, but was reduced a little when I had some tearout issues with the bullnose treatment.

Again, thanks to Vaughn for the excellent picture posting tutorial.

[Corey Hallagan]

Very nice Martin, that is a beautiful piece for sure. Top notch all the way from the legs, the DT's and the top. Very nice indeed.

corey

[Peter Stahl]

Nice looking table Martin!

[Keel McDonald]

Very nice, Martin! I love Shaker style furniture!

[Hans Braul]

Beautiful piece! I love the simple elegance, and great craftsmanship. The figure in the top is really beautiful. Did you resaw the wood yourself?

Hans

[Don Boys]

Martin,

Please direct me to the tutorial.

Don Boys

[John Renzetti]

Hi Martin, Great job. Nice to get the backlog out of the way. I like your wife's way of thinking. Good excuse for tossing the other honey do list to work more in the shop.
take care,
John

[Bart Leetch]

Martin your table looks great. I have been thinking of something similar but it would have to be only 12"-14" deep front to back because it would be to put in our hall way.

Are you aware that you can post up to 5 pictures in one post?

I size most of my pictures 640 x 480 pixels & can fit 5 in a post.

[glenn bradley]

Very nice piece Martin. Does the cove on the drawer front serve a functional purpose or is it just for looks? Very good work.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Martin, great job on this table! The handcut dovetails look great. And the delicacy of the knob is just right for this piece. I prefer the dimensions of the Moser version better than the "Norm" version, but that's just a personal thing. I made four of them through the years but decided I like the Moser dim. better and started building them instead. Regardless, your workmanship is really showing in the details of this piece - the cove on the drawer is a nice touch as well.

Did I see a branded drawer there as well?

[Warren White]

Martin,
You did a great job on the table! I like the finish and the craftsmanship shown. The detail on the top of the drawer is very nice; it adds a touch that I didn't use on mine. I wish that I had. The dovetails are top drawer (they would have been even if it were on a bottom drawer)! The top looks great.

What did you do to finish the project?

Good job! Back to the to-do list!
Warren

[Jim Becker]

Great work, Martin.

It's interesting seeing the differences in this "Norm" design versus the Thos Moser that I've built a few of. The one that jumps out the most is in the apron above and below the drawer...thicker on your table. When I look at various books documenting Shaker style/design, the variation is quite striking.

[Ken Werner]

Martin, excellent job. Your family will cherish it, I am sure.
Ken

[Mark Singer]

Martin,
That piece you can be really proud of! Excellent!

[Martin Shupe]

Martin,

Please direct me to the tutorial.

Don Boys

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31106

It is in the support forum.

I cannot thank Vaughn enough for making that post.

Thanks for all the kind comments.

Hans: No, I was able to buy some cherry lumber that had all been cut from the same log, so that is how I got my book match. I have done some resawing, but only cutting 1 inch boards down to two 3/8 inch (after planing) drawer sides. I have some 8/4 that I will attempt to resaw, but only after I practice on some cheap 2 x 4's to make sure I don't ruin the wood. By the way, your table is excellent, and I love the wood on your top!

Bart, thanks for the tip on multiple pics in one post. I'll do that next time.

Glenn, the cove serves no function, simply for looks. I think Kelly says it "lightens the look of the drawer front". It is simple to make. After the drawer is glued up, but with the bottom out, invert the drawer, and put equal sized stop blocks in each corner of the front. Then using a 1/2 inch cove in a router table, run the drawer front from stop to stop.

Jason, yes, that's the brand, after looking at all the options, I figured out quickly that you chose the best one. Imagine that. I did not get the electric version, so while I have the heating technique almost down, it seems that I need to learn to evenly apply the brand. Some areas are too dark, some are too light. Different every time.

Warren, always nice to see your posts. I hope your wife is doing well. My finish is always evolving. Right now I use Tried and True BLO, just the pure oil, no beeswax, no varnish (which I used once and took forever to dry). However, any BLO will do. Then I set the piece in the Texas sun (although I am sure the California sun would work almost as well :D ) for several hours to darken. Finally I use Waterlox original (the one in the rectangular can). I wipe on 3 or 4 coats with a blue shop towel until it looks right. The inside and drawer inside is coated with Bullseye shellac to seal in the oil smell, but the front of the drawer is done with the Waterlox.

Jim, you are correct. I started this table before I attended Kelly Mehler's writing desk class. I would recommend that class, or any at Kelly's to everyone. He taught me how to make better rails and better table construction in general. You can see I applied the lessons to my Two Drawer Shaker Table I posted after this one.

Thanks to everyone one else who commented but did not have specific questions. It is one thing to show off a piece to your family and get positive feedback, it is quite another to get positive remarks from your peers.

[Jason Tuinstra]

I need to learn to evenly apply the brand. Some areas are too dark, some are too light. Different every time.


I agree. I haven't mastered that either. They say you're supposed to rotate (is that how you would put it???) the preassure just the littlest bit around the brand but I'm fine with some light spots. I'm pretty picky, but I can live with uneven branding. ;)

[Michael Collins]

Martin,

Your table looks great! That is a piece that I hope to make some day when my skills improve. As a beginner I am curious, what is the benefit of orienting the rails above and below the drawer horizontally rather than vertically? Thanks.

Michael

[Martin Shupe]

Martin,

Your table looks great! That is a piece that I hope to make some day when my skills improve. As a beginner I am curious, what is the benefit of orienting the rails above and below the drawer horizontally rather than vertically? Thanks.

Michael

Hi Michael...

This is a good beginner project. Norm Abrahm has published plans for it in one of his books. Norm does a couple things that I would not recommend.
The first is bread board edges. On a table this small, you do not need them. Also, if you use them they will only line up twice a year. Many people also talk about how important it is to alternate growth rings when glueing up boards for the top. I have talked to many master woodworkers, and they all say that it is just fine to orient the boards best side up, and not to worry about the growth rings. The second technique I would not use is the vertical rails, which you asked about. The horizontal rails look better, and provide a wider "shelf" for the drawer to slide on. If you look at my thread on my two drawer shaker table, you can see a picture which shows how I attach the top rail to the legs with a large dovetail. I think the horizontal method also provides more resistance to "racking" between the legs. Note that the lower rail is joined with a double tenon joint, although I have seen plans which call for a single tenon, which might be a little easier for a beginner.

I would encourage you to build one of these tables. You will learn a lot, and if you make a mistake, will not waste too much lumber. I made one exactly like Norm's plans, and although I still have it, I would not show it on this forum.:D The best part about woodworking is that your skills improve with each successive project.

I wish I had a resource like this board when I was a beginner. It would have prevented many mistakes!

Be sure to post pics and ask questions along your journey.