Green HF

[Bernie Weishapl]

I need some advice from you HF experts. When doing a HF out of green wood how do you handle it? Do you turn it rough, soak it in DNA and then finish when dry? Or do you turn it to final size or what? The 2 small ones I have did were kiln dried wood or wood that had been dried for a while. I have a wet piece of walnut and a piece of Elm I would like to try but need some guidence. Thanks.

[Travis Stinson]

Bernie, some like to turn green HFs thin and let them move as it dries. I like to turn mine around 1/2" or so thick and do the DNA routine. Try to get the inside as smooth as you can, it'll be a rough ride when you re-turn it. ;)

[Jim Ketron]

I do the DNA thing as Travis does.
I hate sanding wet wood on the lathe!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks guys. I was hoping you would jump in. I use the DNA on all my other green turnings so will use it here. I will try to leave it at least a 1/2" thick and try to get the inside as smooth as possible. Appreciate the help.

[Reed Gray]

I like to turn everything green, to final thickness, and then let it dry and warp. A wet piece of burl can really move along all of the reaction lines. Some are impossible to sand when dry without losing all of the figure, but since I am usually turning end grain, I can get it a lot smoother than flat grain. Sand, finish with a coat or 2 of Deftoil (inside and out), let dry, then add another coat or three of finish.
robo hippy