Finishing shop cabinets

[Don Abele]

I'm almost done my new miter saw table. It's made from birch ply, maple edging and 1/4 hardboard for the top. Looks nice unfinished, but was thinking of at least sealing/protecting the look from dirt/grime. What's a durable finish for shop cabinets? I've noticed in the past that when Norm builds a shop piece, he doesn't cover what he finishes it with, if he does at all. I'd rather not paint my shop cabinets (seems a sin to paint wood) and staining it is not out of the question.

Thanks for your experience and advice.

Be well,

Doc

[Phil Phelps]

...using an oil base poly. You could use a water base poly for that matter. We can't discuss religion here, Doc, so I can't talk about painting wood. :rolleyes: Varathane is a good product. Put a couple of coats on and it'll look like furniture.

[Jim Becker]

I usually keep thing simple in the shop...if I want a finish on something other than paint, I just use BLO and leave it at that. It's renewable at any time and doesn't require extra care...if you ding something, just hit it with a little more oil and you're done.

[Kent Cori]

Don,

I'm assuming you are leaving the hardboard unfinished.

I use the "witche's brew" for almost everything including the wooden components of my shop cabinetry. It is simply 1 part gloss poly, 1 part BLO and 1 part mineral spits (or turpentine). It is applied like any wiping varnish. Three to four coats does a great job. After the first two coats, I use 220 wet/dry sandpaper to work the third and subsequent coats into the previous finish. I wipe off the last coat pretty quickly. The finish is outstanding; smooth and protective!

[Don Abele]

Phil, thanks for the suggestion. I love varathane and considered it, but didn't want to have to wait so long after applying the finish until I could use it. As for the paint, I love the beauty of wood to always be visible. Yes, I admit, sometimes wood should be painted (especially when I need to hide imperfections!!!).

Jim, first, nice avatar!!! I was considering BLO because of it's ease to apply and quick turn-around time to be able to use the table. I have never actually used it though. How durable is it in a shop environment?

Kent, yes, the hardboard top is unfinished and is not attached so can be removed/replaced as needed. This is the same idea that Norm used for his workshop hutch. With your formula what's the apply-to-use time? With the poly added to the BLO does this increase it? I want a durable finish, but one that will cure quickly so I'm not "down" too long.

Thanks for the info so far...

Be well,

Doc

[Todd Burch]

You can't beat poly. There is "zippo" protection from BLO. It's an oil - it soaks in - that's it - nothing is left on top.

Several years ago, I used Minwax Fast Dry Poly on a countertop. I put it on one evening. Next day, I sanded it smooth and applied a second coat. Today still, none of the finish has chipped off, and I use it on my Miter Saw station counter, and I drag rough lumber across it daily. It has scratched and has some paint marks on it where I have dragged painted wood across it, and wood with screws and nails sticking out, but it's one tough finish, and as far as curing - 3 hours for the poly to cure is a heck of a lot faster than BLO. Oil based poly will warm the wood color up quick a bit too.

Todd.

[Jim Becker]

I was considering BLO because of it's ease to apply and quick turn-around time to be able to use the table. I have never actually used it though. How durable is it in a shop environment?

Todd is absolutely correct...BLO is not going to "protect" your shop furniture from huge amounts of abuse. If you need that, than a film finish, such as varnish, is more appropriate. The oil just adds some nice color and a little "slickness" to the material but does not seal it or harden it like a varnish will.

I use BLO, however, for my shop fixtures that are not painted. (I use it for a lot of my other projects, too) Firstly, I hate poly and only use it when I'm forced to by circumstances. (My prefered film finish is water-based lacquer) Secondly, for my shop, the simplicity and renewability of the BLO is all I'm after. For example, my workbench gets an application of BLO about twice a year. It keeps it looking nice and glue doesn't stick on it. Same with my miter station. I apply it at the end of the day on a Sunday, and it's just fine in a day or two. I suppose that this would not be convenient for someone who makes their living from the shop, however!

It all comes down to personal preferences... :p

[Steven Wilson]

I finish all of my shop cabinets with shellac. It's quick, dries quickly, can be applied in very cold weather, and is easy to repair. I usually brush on two coats of Zinser's orange shellac (which is a 3lb cut) let the last coat dry for an hour an lightly rub out with a scotchbrite pad.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I'm almost done my new miter saw table. It's made from birch ply, maple edging and 1/4 hardboard for the top. Looks nice unfinished, but was thinking of at least sealing/protecting the look from dirt/grime. What's a durable finish for shop cabinets? I've noticed in the past that when Norm builds a shop piece, he doesn't cover what he finishes it with, if he does at all. I'd rather not paint my shop cabinets (seems a sin to paint wood) and staining it is not out of the question.

Thanks for your experience and advice.

Be well,

Doc

Hi Don, Could you post some pics when you're done? I'm just about to build a miter saw station for a slider and would appreciate seeing yours. Thanks Alan in Md. Now if I can just get home some of that big heavy plywood stuff. :)

[Don Abele]

I will be sure to post pics and details when I complete it.

Be well,

Doc