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View Full Version : Which Glue for Cutting Board?



John Buzzurro
11-04-2006, 11:04 AM
Any reasons to use Titebond III vs. Titebond II? They both say "FDA approved for indirect food contact", which I assume means safe for cutting boards. I know that Titebond III is waterproof, so that would seem a better choice, but is it overkill?

thx
John

Charlie Hans
11-04-2006, 11:56 AM
John, Titebond lll will work just fine I have used it a lot for cutting boards and have never had a failure. Just don't try to put it in the dishwasher. I have a couple in the shop at this time that I used Titebond lll on. I use Mineral oil for the finish, about three coats allowed to soak in and rubbed out.
Charlie

Matt Guyrd
11-04-2006, 12:10 PM
I just made a couple of boards based on the WOOD article in last months issue. I used TBII, however, I just picked up a bottle of TBIII for the other cutting boards I am making because TBIII has a bit longer open time.

I read where another woodworker (Mike Schwing maybe?) used Titebond II White glue because it had a longer open time. I have not had the opportunity to determine which of the Titebond glues have the most open time. Anybody know?

Matt

Roy Wall
11-04-2006, 12:47 PM
I just made a couple of boards based on the WOOD article in last months issue. I used TBII, however, I just picked up a bottle of TBIII for the other cutting boards I am making because TBIII has a bit longer open time.

I read where another woodworker (Mike Schwing maybe?) used Titebond II White glue because it had a longer open time. I have not had the opportunity to determine which of the Titebond glues have the most open time. Anybody know?

Matt

II - 5 minutes
III - 8 minutes

The Titebond website says 10 minutes for the III, but a CS from Titebond told me 8 minutes is more accurate

Mike Goetzke
11-04-2006, 1:28 PM
I have made four of the Wood mag. design - just finished these last night (one is shorter because it took more passes through the planer to remove a defect in one of the boards):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/th_IMG_0291_1_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/IMG_0291_1_1.jpg)

I used TBIII and had to move quick to glue half together at a time (remember to use cauls for clamping or the clamped ends won't be flat - DAMHIKT). Wonder if there are other glues available with longer open time than 8 min.?

Matt Guyrd
11-04-2006, 4:23 PM
Roy...thanks for the open times on the TB glues (info readily available on their website, I see :rolleyes: ).

Mike - Nice boards! Did you apply a finish yet, and if so, what did you use? I applied liberal amounts of Mineral Oil on my first board. I knew that each species would darken, but I was a bit disappointed with the hard maple...it darkened much more than I had hoped and did not leave the contrast I was looking for. See included Pic.

I think I am going to try the mineral oil and beeswax mix next. This is suppose to give the board slightly more durability, particularly with moisture control. It should add a bit of a shine at first too.

Matt
49525

Mike Goetzke
11-04-2006, 4:46 PM
I didn't know what to apply so just used mineral oil as suggested by others.

Don Henthorn Smithville, TX
11-04-2006, 10:16 PM
I didn't know what to apply so just used mineral oil as suggested by others.

According to the article regarding the tests run at the University of Wisconsin, any finish used on a cutting board retards the natural properties of wood which destroy the microbes hiding there. It is best, according to the article to keep the cutting board bare and wash it, not in the dishwasher, after use.

Plastic, even if washed, is a regular germ factory according to the study.