frame door with glass question

[Jim Andrew]

I'm bulding cabinet doors for my daughter, and she wants glass in 4 of the
doors. Have the stiles and rails cut and machined, looking for an easy way to cut the back out so the glass will lay in the frame. Checked my
laminate trimmer, the bearing and nut are too much to fit in the groove.
I could rip the rails easy with the table saw, but have to stop the cut
in the stiles. Any simple method out there? Jim

[Mark Singer]

Jim,
A very good way is to use a rabbeting bit on a router with a pilot bearing. It will follow the edge and make a small rabbit depending on the bit. Then square the corners with a chisel and make stop....thats it:eek:

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

My experience has been that a rabetting bit will tear the bejessus out of the edge on cuts like that...unless I go the wrong direction, and make multiple passes, which provides a wonderfully clean edge.

KC

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Jim

I made it as Mark said, but in 2 passes, I left some 1/32" for the last pass.
What you see in the picture it's an Oak frame.

niki

49458

[lou sansone]

it depends on the profile of rail and stile. if it is a traditional colonial pattern then there is not a lot for the router bit bearing to ride on. the only way I have found to do this is with a guild setup and a 1/4 straight cut bit. take your time and you will get a clean edge

lou

[Jim Andrew]

Thanks for the help guys. You're the greatest. Jim

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I have never been able to get a clean cut with a rabbeting bit, ever, in any material going the 'proper' direction. The Infinity Rabbet Master is the best I've used, but it still chips, even at very slow feeds, and with very shallow cuts. Going the wrong direction, it cuts like a champ. Maybe it's just me... but the problem with this sort of operation is that all the work is done before you realize it's boogered up...and then it's too late.

KC

[Mark Singer]

Kirk,
You are correct....small passes in a climb cut tend to work best. If you watch the grain ....you can see the problems coming. Sometimes you can cut in the normal direction..

[Jamie Buxton]

I generally make one light pass "the wrong direction", and then a deeper pass the other direction. The first pass cuts the fibers on the surface of the wood, so there's no splintering. The second pass uses the cutting action to suck the bearing tight to the wood, so you get a full-depth cut everyplace.