New Workshop

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I am getting ready to break ground on my new 24x36 detached workshop. For those of you who have had a workshop built, what do you wish you had done differently? Please don't answer "Make it bigger". That's always a given. What recommendations would you have? Let's hear it. Don't hold back.

[Kyle Kraft]

Rob,

Congratulations on your new shop. Put in a metal ceiling. Minimum ten foot sidewalls. Do not attempt to paint your concrete floor until you do a vapor emission test. DAMHIKT:( Lots of insulation. A/C for summertime comfort. Run your dust collection and power under the floor if you plan on putting your TS in the middle of the room. Copper or black pipe airlines. Power and air drops from ceiling in strategic locations (over your ass'y table).

WHEW!

[Greg Sznajdruk]

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Hrihori/66b05c38.jpg
I was not as ambitious as you are, I purchased a used school portable. It is 24 by 32 steel roof and siding, on the upside it is completely finished on the inside. 100 amp panel, 5/8 drywall double up, suspended ceiling, tile floor and fully insulated. Why I went this way was over all cost.

I paid $4k for the building, $7k to have it split and trucked from Oshawa to Kingston. This includes setup. Paid $58 for building permit, about $1500 for trenching and conduit as well as power cable, about $100 for inspection.

I have my setup on cottage piers with hurricane ties. Soon as weather improves will add the skirt boards.

Good luck

Greg

[Art Mulder]

Rob, I've never built a shop. Yet. But I hope I am allowed to comment.

Just a few things I've picked up from reading forums for years and tucked away in my own mental wish-list:

- Wood floor is very nice underfoot
- If it must be a concrete slab, lay an inch or two of styrofoam UNDER the slab for insulation
- Lots of insulation. Personally, I'd look real hard at SIPs
- Mixed opinion on running power or DC in the floor.
- Lights move, so just put switched outlets in the ceiling and plug your fluorescents into that
- most folks seem to like putting in a closet to hold the DC+Compressor
- building on piers (like Frank Pellow, or Marty, or Greg above) is worth considering

- either contract it out, take time off work, or be really prepared for it to take a LONG time.

...art

[Mike Elo]

Build a small room outside, just big enough for your air compressor install a solinoid valve to the drain, wire it to some type of pushbutton inside the shop along with a light to let you know that the air comprssor is on. Plus it's nice to have a little more storage for rakes, shovel ect.

[Rennie Heuer]

OK, you asked for it!

Don't build on a slab - build over a crawl space and use trusses for the floor support. DC, air, electric - much of this can be run under the floor and will free up wall space and make it easier to swing material around. Warmer on the feet and much better on the back too! Get help sizing the trusses to insure they can handle the point loads of the machines and the storage loads for lumber.

For the roof consider SIP’s (structural insulated panels). They will give you maximum headroom and insulation.

Plenty of light - skylights for natural light, daylight color tubes for general lighting, halogens for task. Motion sensor security lighting around the entire exterior perimeter.

Double 3'-0" doors will handle almost anything in and out and are much better insulated and easier to secure than overhead doors. Make sure you have a second exit - maybe with panic bar hardware. There might (hope not) come a time when you need to exit in a hurry and the main entrance will be blocked.

Windows are a security risk. Either depend only on the skylights for light or use a wire reinforced glass in the windows. An alarm of some kind is also a good investment.

Fire sprinklers - the new systems designed for residential use are inexpensive and give great peace of mind. Add a few extinguishers in strategic locations - same thing for phones. Who wants to go groping for a phone in an emergency? You might consider an intercom to the house.

Heat and AC - Radiant floor for the heat. The new split AC units won’t take up floor space and have easy to clean filters.

Don’t forget ambient air filtration and ventilation for your finishing area.

Multiple speakers for the music - allows you to hear it anywhere in the shop without blasting the volume. TV with DVD/VCR player - great for checking back on those instructional videos or old NYW episodes.

Wireless broadband - for access to SMC, of course.

Covered shelf space for magazines & books, file storage for plans and manuals.

DC in a closet or separate room - noise!

100 amp panel - put lighting on own circuit. Split the general lighting into two sections and put a 3-way for each at each exit. Many, many quad outlets on the walls (48” off the floor) and a couple of doubles hanging from the ceiling over workbenches, etc.

Washroom equipped with a WC, sink and eye wash stand.

Now, what else? Oh yea, you need a bunch of money.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

what do you wish you had done differently? Please don't answer "Make it bigger". That's always a given. What recommendations would you have? Let's hear it. Don't hold back.

Install hydraulic jacks and storage like they do on aircradft hangars so each machine would glide out of the way int ostorage and a new one would magically appear form under the fondation.

[Ben Grunow]

I have an old door from a house I demolished as the access to my shop and its 6' 8" tall. THis is too short for me to walk thru carrying a sheet of plywood on edge and has resulted in several smashed fingers and sore knees when its MDF time. Go for at least one tall, double door.

I second the skylight suggestion.

I like air and electrical drops from the ceiling on spring loaded coilers. Using a power plane or belt sander without the weight of the cord to worry about reall lets you feel the tool and what its doing instead of manage a cord.

A bathroom is nice (or at least a secluded tree) and many small drawers for all the hand tools (only 1 1/2" deep or so but lots).

I would like to have a woodstove just for fun, not for primary heat.

Good luck and congrats, you will have a blast.

[Jim Becker]

Provide for lots of natural light. 'Just because you need wall space doesn't mean you have to give it up. Put windows up high on the walls. Make sure you can open them for cross ventilation on nice days. Don't use "regular "garage doors if you can avoid it...use a roll-up or use a double door setup (with outward opening doors) for "wide access". "Regular" garage doors block lighting and interfere with other overhead needs in a shop. And with a shop of that larger size, consider having a separate machine area, separate "hand tool" and assembly area and a dedicated finishing space. DC and compressor should have their own little room for noise containment.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Jim, you forgot the dedicated gardening space. How do you think I got permission to do this?

[John Bush]

In slab radient heat, max headroom, skylights, separate room for DC and compressor, utility sink, toilet, I even plumbed for a yet to be installed shower, I have an upstairs that was intented for my wife's art but is currently holding all her stacks of roughcut lumber, I wish I had spent more time planning on equip. placement and done covered trenches to hold DC and power supply. All my stuff drops from the ceiling and is OK but not as clean looking as I would prefer. I would visit as many shops, both hobby and commercial to share ideas. I also built double doors for the 8'W X9'Tall doors so I can get the old "67 Stang conv. in to tweak. I also built a large wood rack that takes up a lot of space. If you could design attached covered storage you can save on floorspace and still store lots of stuff. I have lots of windows and love the natural; light, but don't have any room for upper cabinets. I also used slot wall so I can arrange most all my tools on the wall. Good luck, JCB.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, you forgot the dedicated gardening space. How do you think I got permission to do this?

LOL! Ah, yes...negotiations. You seem to be doing well in that department.

(Did I ever mention that I actually lived in your town back in late 1979 and 1980? Owned a tiny condo...and this was before the big highway extended beyond Rt 29)

[Bryan Rocker]

I might not have started this post but it sure ties into my plans. I am planning on adding a 20 x 20ish shop on the back of my house. I had considered a truss floor. How far apart did you put the trusses? I know 16" centers is standard but for shops would you go to 12" centers or smaller for adequate support?