Music Stand and Lathe Questions

[Jack Norfleet]

One of my nieces who is a music teacher is marrying another music teacher in June. I want to make them a pair of music stands as wedding gifts, but have a few questions.

1. How long is a typical music stand main column? She is a flutist so she typically stands when performing.

The answer to this will influence whether I just get a bed extension for my Delta Midi or if I upgrade to a larger lathe.

2. How would you drill the hole down the column for the adjustment bar? Should I split the blank, rout out the center, and then glue it up or is there another method I am missing?

3. If I get a larger lathe, I would prefer either the PM 3520 or the Jet 1642 2HP. The problem is, I can get the Jet 1642 1.5HP, with a Jet rebate and a Woodcraft 10% for around $1400.

Either of the Jet lathes allow for longer spindles which may make it a better choice for the type of work I intend to do.

Would I be sacrificing much by not going to the 2HP lathe? I don't turn big bowls or vessels at this time, but I may in the future. Right now I want to turn longer spindles for furniture.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

[Dick Parr]

Joe Tonich made a beautiful music stand last year, hopfully he will see your question and can give you the answers. Wish I could help yea more.:(

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18340&highlight=music+stand

[John Terefenko]

I can't help with the measurements and all, but ask you to consider going the extra mile and making it a piece of art work. Add a music symbol to the front such as a "G" Clef ( I think that is what they are called) Also scroll some music notes into the top. Maybe even a stanza of notes. I try to think outside the box when it comes to designing a basic piece.

[Jack Norfleet]

I can't help with the measurements and all, but ask you to consider going the extra mile and making it a piece of art work. Add a music symbol to the front such as a "G" Clef ( I think that is what they are called) Also scroll some music notes into the top. Maybe even a stanza of notes. I try to think outside the box when it comes to designing a basic piece.

That was the plan. I have seen some very artistic pieces in threads here at the Creek and hope these turn out half as nice. I was figuring on adding treble clefs and other musical symbols in contrasting woods. I was also wanting an elegant turned column and curved set of legs which I have never done before. My primary turning experience has been pens so this is a large step for me.

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, a music stand really needs to be adjustable in height for best utility. But you can do a fixed height if you can find out what the musician's preference is. Everyone is different! While that shows your hand relative to the gift, it's probably the right thing to do... ;)

[Jack Norfleet]

I was planning on an adjustable height. Usually the height adjusts with a rod sliding inside a main column. The column length is where I need the help. I was thinking that around 36 inches for the column might be a good starting point.

[Chuck Saunders]

Here are the dimensions of my Manhasset Music stand (the black ones you see in every band room at school)
Music tray 20"Wx13"H
Music ledge 2"
Pivot of Music tray is 4-1/2" up from the bottom
Tray in Low position 29" High Position 56"
Hope this helps
Chuck

[Frank Fusco]

For #2
Drilling long straight holes is always problematic. Flute makers and makers of old style muzzle loading guns that need ramrod holes have techniques, sometimes secret, that they use. Flute makers are divided. One school of thought says to split, rout and glue back. Another says drill.
But for your one or two item project, what I would do is use a large piece of wood, drill the hole and then use the hole as your center for turning. That is a whole lot better than turning first then drilling and having your drill come out the side.

[Carl Eyman]

Fine Woodworking had an article on making music stands that covered all the parameters mentioned above. I made the one shown here (http://www.eyman.org/furniture/03_music%20stand.htm) In this case I also copied their styling, but that wasn't the point of the article. It was on height, size of support, etc.

Oh, on the hole: I fabricated the blank for the pedestal from two pieces of wood with a dado down the length of each into which I epoxied a piece of 1/2inch emt electrical coduit. The holes for the pin that allows height adjustment won't elongate over time as they might if the pedestal were wood alone and the interior is a nice smooth surface.

PS I'll look up the issue number if you wish.

[Royce Meritt]

Being a band teacher, after I read your post I measured the nusic stands in my band room. The main cloumn measures 29" from the floor to the top of the column when in the lowest position and 52" from floor when fully extended.

BTW, I have made several music stands myself. I dealt with the problem of drilling the hole down the length of the column by NOT drilling a hole. I glued up 4 peices of stock into a "square tube" and made the adjustment mechanism square as well. Fabricate a couple of pieces to allow mounting on the lathe and you are ready to go.

I made a few of the "desks" (where the music sits) ornate, but some people prefer that it be flat and solid so that they have a solid surface for writing on the music if necessary.

I have attached a picture of some stands and a crude sketch of how I mounted it on the lathe. Hope this helps

[Erik C. Hammarlund]

This company makes a 10' long bit (http://www.bamanufacturing.com/customdesign.html) so I'd call them and ask how to drill your hole!

[Frank Fusco]

I saw a show on that Made in America series of a company that makes bagpipes. Their long flutes are drilled with an "air" drill. They didn't show the business end of the thing. I e-mailed the company and asked for an explanation but they didn't reply.
Many of the makers of old style muzzle loading rifles I know use spoon bits to drill the ramrod holes. This is tricky business as a good stock blank can cost from several hundred to several thousand dollars and a drifting hole is ruination.
When I drill ramrod holes (which is seldom, I pay the pros to do it) I do it one of two ways: lucky :) and ruination :( .
Nobody seconded or criticized my idea [for the music stand] of drilling first then using the hole as a center for turning the post. Good? Bad? Or just too dumb an idea for comment? :confused:

[Jack Norfleet]

Everyone, Thank you so much. I now have a place to start. Now I just need to convince the wife that I need a bigger lathe.

[Jack Norfleet]

Fine Woodworking had an article on making music stands that covered all the parameters mentioned above.

PS I'll look up the issue number if you wish.

Carl,

If you do find the article, please post the issue number. I searched the FWW website and could not find it.

Thanks

[John Taylor]

Nobody seconded or criticized my idea [for the music stand] of drilling first then using the hole as a center for turning the post. Good? Bad? Or just too dumb an idea for comment? :confused:

Good idea, I do quite a bit of long hole boring, although the longest I have done is 24" with a 1 1/4" hole. I use either spade or Auger bits and the required extension bars.

I always use an oversize blank in case the hole wanders off centre, drill the hole first then make plugs for the ends so that when you mount it between centres the hole is central. then turn the item to size and what ever design you want.

john

[terry richards]

I have made a couple of stands. To achieve the adjustment, I made the lower section of 4 pieces of flat stock. I then attached a glue block to the bottom, & turned this into a tenon to fit in the chuck. I uesd a cone center on the top end for the tailstock. This produces a turned cylinder with a square internal hole. It is extremely critical that the inside surfaces of the cylinder be straight, smooth, and that no glue globs squeeze out inside. This is eliminated by reaming the inside with a damp cloth, similar to cleaning a shotgun.

The upper half, the moving stem, is made from square stock. The back side (side facing the musician) is machined with a long dovetail groove. A sliding wedge is fitted into this slot. In this way, the stand remains at whatever height to which it is lifted. To lower the stand, the wedge is lifted and then released when the desired lower height is reached. The photo shows a finished lower section and a raw wood upper stem.

The upper stem is drilled to accept the wooden threaded bolt and knob. Space is an issue here, but I have several add'l photos of the subassemblies if anyone would care to see them.

The base is a turned platter with a receiver the same size as the chuck tenon. The original glue block may be left on and glued up with the lower cylinder, or it may be removed after a gluing tenon is turned on the shaft.

The two stands shown have zero metal fasteners. Everything is wood, joints, and glue.

BTW, this is my first attempt to post a photo, so here goes...

[Carl Eyman]

The article was on pages 50 ff of issue #63 March & April, 1987. Look for a pm