Plywood saw blade

[Joe Koren]

Hi everyone,

I have been using the Forrest Woodworker II blades on my table saw and have had some tearout issues. After experimenting I discovered that it was that my feed rate was "to fast." After slowing down the tear out dramatically decreased. Unfortunately, the feed rate is sooooooo slow that I think I will have grandkids before I finish building this toy trainbox for my son (He is 7 months old).

Does anyone have recommendations for a good ... no make that excellent plywood cutting blade. Having the Forrest Woodworker II, I naturally, looked at the Forrest products the Duraline HI-A/T in particular, but am open to all blades.

Thanks
Joe

[Mark Rios]

I also had trouble with the WWII (on my old contractor saw) and I found that I got better cuts with a dedicated rip or crosscut blade.

This blade was suggested to me and I absolutely love it. I love it so much that I ordered a second one after using it.

http://www.hechinger.com/web/catalog/product_detail1.aspx?pid=69861&cm_ven=Shopping.com&cm_cat=Power%20Tools&cm_pla=Freud&cm_ite=Freud-Accessories-69861&cid=CBE0DCBEC67C64EDD789A8C0A078EC0C

I got mine from Amazon but Amazon is only listing this blade now, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WKBEQ/002-4328333-8534454, which, if I understand correctly, is the old version of the LU80R010 above.

This blade is absolutely terriffic (for me anyway) for crosscutting plywood. I don't mind changing blades at all when I need to make crosscuts on plywood because of the great finish that I get. This is all assuming a ZCI is used as well, of course.

Just my opinion and hope this helps.

[Larry Fox]

I recently picked up this one and absolutely love it. I also use a WWII as my primary blade but for ply this one is fantastic. Zero tearout for me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225VC/104-4849074-6058324

[Mark Rios]

Thanks for that link Larry. I could only find the other one.

[Hoa Dinh]

With the risk of violating the rules here, I'm posting this link:

Leitz Blade Ad (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=2684422&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14)

For sheetgoods, get either:

- LEITZ PRO SERIES OPTICUT 10" z80 neg. hook ATB 5/8" $29
- 35-622 10" z80 ATB 5/8" bore $21

For melamine/laminate coated particle board/MDF:

- 35-633 10" z80 TC 5/8" bore *0 degree hook*$28

It's too bad he's out of 24T FG Rip (full-kerf) and 40T ATB Pro-Series Combo.

[scott spencer]

Hi Joe - I've used several 80T blades....DeWalt DW7647, DW3218TK, Leitz 80T Pro, Freud LU74R010, and Freud F810. Of those, I think the F810 (now the LU80R010) will make the biggest improvement over the cut of the WWII in ply, a Hi-ATB blade is an excellent choice. I imagine the Forrest is equally impressive. You could also consider the LU79R010 (TK).

http://www.epinions.com/Freud_F810_10_80_Tooth_Hyper_Finish_Precision_Cros scut_Blade_Shop_Tools

[Nick Clayton]

Joe,

I found that using dedicated blades was one of the best performance ugrades I could have made when using my table saw. As far as what type to purchase you'll get so many opinions, as there are many good blades to be purchased; my preferance is Amana

[John Bailey]

Hoa,

No problem with the link to Leitz Blades. As per the TOS, "links for the sole purpose of marketing," would not be allowed. Your link falls within the TOS.

John

[Tim Burke]

a Hi-ATB blade is an excellent choice. I imagine the Forrest is equally impressive. You could also consider the LU79R010 (TK).


What does Hi-ATB mean? Is that an ATB blade with a high tooth count?

Tim

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Contrary to common experience, I spent a good chunk of money on an Amana plywood blade ($80?)...and used it only a couple times before putting my 30T WWII back on and leaving it because I didn't see a significant difference in cut quality.

I think the 40T WWII might be better for plywood and crosscuts, but the 30T has been an excellent one-size-fits-all blade for me for several years (7 or 8?)

KC

[Charles McCracken]

What does Hi-ATB mean? Is that an ATB blade with a high tooth count?

Tim


Tim

HiATB is a version of the ATB grind with very steep bevel angles, generally higher than 30°.

[Jim Becker]

Like KC, I've had excellent results with my WW-II blades on sheet goods...no tearout with a ZCI as long as the blade is sharp. I have a Freud ply blade (I forget the configuration) and it works well, but I don't see any difference between it and my normal blade.

[John Renzetti]

hi Joe, I'm a fan of the German made Guhdo blades. They have a 90T 303mm HiAt blade that I've used on sheet goods without scoring and it worked great. You should be able to get it with the 5/8" bore as it normally is sold in 30mm bore. Also I have heard people get excellent results with an FS Tool blade.
take care,
John

[Brian Gumpper]

As Mark said, 80T Hi-ATB is the way to go for melamine and veneer faced ply. Here is a link showing the tooth geometry.

http://tenryu.com/ToothGeometry.pdf

I have tried a good combo blade and unless I score the material, can't get satisfactory results.

[Laurie Brown]

I've been using a Freud Avante 80T blade, and it makes nice smooth cuts in plywood.

[Gary Herrmann]

I was given a Forrest Duraline HI AT after building some bookcases for my aunt and uncle. Fabulous blade. Pricey, but its my only exposure to a dedicated ply blade. http://www.forrestsawblades.com/hiat.htm

[John Schreiber]

Does nobody else see the topic for this thread and each time say to themselves.


"That will never work. How would you put carbide teeth into the plywood? Is there really Baltic birch that's flat enough for a sawblade? Hmmm, maybe for a really big buzz saw?"

Maybe I'm just not spending enough time in the shop and too much time on the computer.