Table Saw Debate

[Travis Lavallee]

Hey creekers,

Just want to get an opinion on which saw you would prefer:

General International 50-260 for ~$1,900 (w/o ext. table)
or
Steel City 35618 for $1,950 (w/ ext. table and legs)

Both have similar specs., but Steel City has 5 year warranty.

Also, when wiring in, am I correct to assume a 2 wire 220 V supply?

Thanks

[Mark Rios]

Steel City

[Nancy Laird]

Hi, there are really a lot of differences in table saws, and a lot that most of the "experts" will not talk about.

To begin with you need to know that I make my living recommending and selling and using woodworking machines. That said here is my .02.

First you need to understand why a left tilt table saw was built, and that has nothing to do with safety. The left tilt table saw was invented so that there would not be a lot of tearout on the outside of a mitre cut.

Second, you need a really good fence and a Beismeyer is the original and in my opinion the best.

Third, the real difference is in the way the blade stacks on the arbor of the saw. On a left tilt the blade stacks from the left to the right. That means that when you change the blade from, say, a thin kerf to a regular kerf to a dado blade, that the distance from the right side of the blade to the fence, without moving the fence, changes, meaning that the tape measure is not accurate with different blades. On a right tilt the blade stacks from the right to the left and when changing blades, say, from a thin kerf to a regular kerf to a dado blade the distance from the right side of the blade to the fence, without moving the fence, stays tha same, making the tape measure a useful item.

Fourth, safety on a table saw, or any other piece of equipment, is a matter of the operator, not the machine. My point is that if the operator does something not smart, like trying to rip a warped twisted board then the machine will do somethine stupid like throwing it back at you (generic you). The one thing that I can tell anyone is that if your mind and body are not in the same spot at the same time while doing woodworking you will have an accident.

My perference is a right tilt Delta Unisaw with a Beismeyer fence. I have owned and used mine for 13 years with no problems. trouble, or kickbacks.

I'd get the Steel City right tilt 50" tablesaw.

If you care to talk to me some more please feel free to PM me.

David

[Norman Hitt]

Well, discussing tablesaws and especially left tilt vs right tilt is usually comparable to discussing religion or politics,:D so I guess to keep things even, I will try to make some representation for the left tilt crowd.;)

I have used both left tilt and right tilt saws, (many of each over the last 55 + years) and have owned several saws, but just never liked a right tilt well enough to buy one. One thing I don't like about a right tilt saw is that you have to move the fence over to the left side of the saw to keep from "Trapping" the piece between the sawblade and the fence when doing a Mitre cut, and unfortunately, I have Rarely found, Including my Biesemeyer Commercial fence (which I love dearly), a fence who's sides are exactly parallel to each other, and it takes a lot more time to adjust the fence parallel to the blade for this setup, and then readjust it again when you put it back to the other side, than it does to compensate for the error in the fence rail's "MeasuringTape" when changing from one blade kerf width to another or installing a dado.

To compensate for a different kerf width blade, OR a dado blade, I simply keep an 18" long by 4" wide piece of MDF that I lay against the blade and then move the fence up against the MDF and lock the fence. I then place a short piece of masking or electrical tape across the cursor fitting so that one edge is exactly above the 4" mark on the tape and that edge becomes my cursor for as long as I have that blade/dado setup in the saw. Recalibrating when returning to the original blade setup........Peel Off the Tape.;)

With all that said, I love my PM 66 that I bought new 16 or 17 years ago, but there are several excellent cabinet saws available these days, and any of them would probably serve you well. IF "I" were in the market at this time, I personally, would probably give a hard look at the new PM 2000, because of it's riving knife, new internal dust collection shroud and flex hose, new single flat wide belt and pulleys, and built in mobility system that you just crank down the wheels and roll it away, but most likely my PM 66 will still be going strong when I'm not.

I have no personal experience with either of the saws you mention, but my suggestion would be to go look in person at those and other saws in the category or your price range and climb all over each of them, and then pick your preference. I will also say that left tilt/right tilt is also a personal preference thing, and either will work as long as you understand the shortcomings/safety considerations of each and how to compensate for them, so pick what "Feels Right to YOU", not to me, or anyone else, because we're not the ones that will be using it.:D

Good luck, and have fun with your shopping, and be sure to let us all know what you get.

[scott spencer]

Tough call between those two.... I've had good dealings with both companies via a GI contractor saw, and through my Orion made 22124. I'm intrigued by the new offering from Steel City and it's added features, but I'd also be hesitant b/c it's so new. The 5 year warranty should offer some comfort in that regard though...

The GI is a more proven machine...

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I am left handed so a left tilt (blade tilts off to my right hand side) is my prefence. The issue about stacking & tilt is interesting. But, my reasons for tilt preference are more about safety and comfort. I like the left tilt because I stand with the blade on my right when I cross cut. This means that when I lay the blade over it's leaning away from me and I like that way better than having it leaning into the fence.

The Steel city seems to have a nice Bies style fence but I'd prefer a Vega.

Have you had a chance to test run either of these machines??

[Travis Porter]

Very informative. I learned some things I had not considered before. I am not in the market for a saw, but it brought about points I never really knew.

[richard poitras]

I think steel city has 20% off a lot of there tools right now , might be something to think about when buying?

[Mike Canaris]

If I would spend that much ,I would go for the real mcCoy and get myself a General 350/650...made right here in NA. IT will proabably cost you a few hunnerd more...but you will have a saw that your grandkids will pass down to thiers.

[Frank Fusco]

I love it (NOT) when experts debate. Both sides are right even though they differ. That leaves us ordinary folks in the middle scratching our heads. I wish I understood what Nancy was saying with the stacking and tape measurements not being the same. :confused: :confused: :confused: A measurement is a measurement is a measurement. Even though I'm pretty sceptical of many things, I often yield to the choices of the many. e.g. I believe there is a reason why 96% of computer operating systems are MS. On that basis, I won't select one that is used by only 2%. With table saws, the overwhelming majority seem to be left-tilt. When/if I purchase a high dollar TS, it will be left-tilt. And I know when I measure three inches with my tape measure, it will still be three inches the next time I use that tape measure. Right? ;)

[scott spencer]

I love it (NOT) when experts debate. Both sides are right even though they differ. That leaves us ordinary folks in the middle scratching our heads. I wish I understood what Nancy was saying with the stacking and tape measurements not being the same. :confused: :confused: :confused: A measurement is a measurement is a measurement. Even though I'm pretty sceptical of many things, I often yield to the choices of the many. e.g. I believe there is a reason why 96% of computer operating systems are MS. On that basis, I won't select one that is used by only 2%. With table saws, the overwhelming majority seem to be left-tilt. When/if I purchase a high dollar TS, it will be left-tilt. And I know when I measure three inches with my tape measure, it will still be three inches the next time I use that tape measure. Right? ;)

Hi Frank - Nancy was refering to the fixed measuring tape on the front rail of a TS fence. That tape is referenced to zero at the farthest right edge of the blade for most applications. On a LT saw, if the blade thickness changes it skews the zero setting and either needs to be readjusted to zero by moving the cursor, shimmed, or a separate measuring tape used. On a RT saw the thickness of blade does not skew that setting.

That said, I never saw it as a very big concern. I tend to use the same thickness of blades or use a separate tape measure if I change blade thickness. There are other differences that I didn't notice mentioned that favor the left tilt....on a RT saw the orientation of the arbor nut thread is reversed, and lends itself to tightening the nut with my left hand. It's a small issue to some, but that aspect of my RT saw drove me nuts....a LT saw has the threads in a normal orientation and is easily tightened with my right hand...my dominant hand....the "righty tighty" rule applies! I found that feature to outweight the more minor inconvenience of blade thickness changes skewing the zero reference, but it's really a matter of preference IMO....there's no right or wrong decision. I give the RT/LT debate very little weight in a TS buying decision, and would not let it kill an otherwise great deal on nice saw.

[Frank Fusco]

Hi Frank - Nancy was refering to the fixed measuring tape on the front rail of a TS fence. That tape is referenced to zero at the farthest right edge of the blade for most applications. On a LT saw, if the blade thickness changes it skews the zero setting and either needs to be readjusted to zero by moving the cursor, shimmed, or a separate measuring tape used. On a RT saw the thickness of blade does not skew that setting.

That said, I never saw it as a very big concern. I tend to use the same thickness of blades or use a separate tape measure if I change blade thickness. There are other differences that I didn't notice mentioned that favor the left tilt....on a RT saw the orientation of the arbor nut thread is reversed, and lends itself to tightening the nut with my left hand. It's a small issue to some, but that aspect of my RT saw drove me nuts....a LT saw has the threads in a normal orientation and is easily tightened with my right hand...my dominant hand....the "righty tighty" rule applies! I found that feature to outweight the more minor inconvenience of blade thickness changes skewing the zero reference, but it's really a matter of preference IMO....there's no right or wrong decision. I give the RT/LT debate very little weight in a TS buying decision, and would not let it kill an otherwise great deal on nice saw.

OK, that makes sense. No problem for me. I simply don't trust the fixed tapes on equipment for close work. I consider them only 'aproximate' and make careful measurements for all other work.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Are the overwhelming majority really left tilt? I've used both, and prefer a right tilt...for no valid reason I can think of. Is the SawStop a lefty? If so, my next one will be left. ;)

KC

[Bob Dodge]

I'm a "left-tilt" guy. Mainly because beveling a narrow work-piece strikes me as being safer with the blade tilted away from the fence. Mind you, that's pretty flexible anyway. You can always place a right-tilt saw's fence to the left of the blade and do exactly the same thing. Overall though, I prefer left tilt, but I'm happy with either one.

[Mike Null]

After more than 30 years with a left tilt I bought a right tilt mainly for the fence upgrade.

I'll take left tilt any time--more comfortable and--my perception--safer.

[Loren Hedahl]

Why do most folks position their fence on the right side of the blade?

I use mine on either side, depending on what I am doing. I have no formal education on the issue -- just self-taught. My first table saw was a home made affair with an old Skill saw as the prime mover, that I cobbled together shortly after buying my first house, a real fixer-upper. I don't remember which way that one tilted, nor do I remember which side of the blade I clamped a piece of angle iron on for a fence.

I do remember a couple of throw backs, though, and thought about what caused it. Once, I must admit, I installed the saw backwards under the table. That was a hoot! Another time I installed the blade backwards. Most problems were due to using too short of a fence on the operator side. A little twitch when feeding the material and things jam up quick. That is the main reason I don't use a bench-top. I would like it better if my contractor saw had 6 inches to a foot longer table and fence on the input side.

I find it interesting that a left tilt was brought out originally to lessen tear-out on miter cuts. If I were worried about that, I would just pre-scribe the cut line with a sharp pocket knife along a straight edge.

Am I an accident waiting to happen, or otherwise doing something wrong?
I don't mind being "educated" or even "flamed". That's why I lurk on this forum and sometimes post.

[scott spencer]

Why do most folks position their fence on the right side of the blade? ...

Most saws are set up so that the bulk of the ripping capacity is on the right side of the blade. It's also a bit safer to approach cuts with familiar repitition when possible....changing sides alters that familiarity somewhat.

Also, many blade manufacturers recommend a slight "toe out" of the tail of the fence to reduce the chance of pinching the workpiece which could cause kickback.....moving a toed out fence to the opposite side would cause a toe in situation.

[Rick Christopherson]

First off I want to state that I could care less what saw somebody buys or uses. It's not my shop and I don't sell saws. What I do care about, however, is misinformation and myths. This is one myth that drives me nuts becuase there is no basis for it, yet it gets repeated with such regularity that no one even questions it.

One thing I don't like about a right tilt saw is that you have to move the fence over to the left side of the saw to keep from "Trapping" the piece between the sawblade and the fence when doing a Mitre cut
Trapping the workpiece under the blade is not going to cause a kickback. As a matter of fact, a kickback is more likely when the workpiece is sitting above the blade that it will be below the blade. In order for a kickback situation to propagate into a full kickback, the workpiece must catch a forward moving tooth of the blade. Since the sawblade plate is holding the workpiece from lifting up, and the fence is holding it from moving to the side, it can't reach the forward moving teeth of the blade.

On the other hand, when the blade is tilted away from the fence, the workpiece can easily move upward, diagonally across the blade plate to the forward moving teeth. The blade not only doesn't stop it from moving in that direction, it helps it move in that direction. Moreover, the harder the operator tries to stop the propagation of the kickback by holding the workpiece down, the more friction will tend to pull it sideways.

Pick what ever saw you want; just don't use trapping the workpiece as the main basis for the decision.

[Travis Lavallee]

Thanks for all the input.

I noticed that everyone must have read halfway through my first post and got all worked up about the left right tilt debate that they skipped over my last question.

Is it correct that such a saw would require a 2 wire 220 V supply?
Or will it need a 3 wire?

[Phil Pritchard]

Trapping the workpiece under the blade is not going to cause a kickback. As a matter of fact, a kickback is more likely when the workpiece is sitting above the blade that it will be below the blade. In order for a kickback situation to propagate into a full kickback, the workpiece must catch a forward moving tooth of the blade. Since the sawblade plate is holding the workpiece from lifting up, and the fence is holding it from moving to the side, it can't reach the forward moving teeth of the blade.
If the timber is straight grained and stress free then that is the case, yes. However, with a long through fence (such as a Biesmeyer) if the material being sawn has any stress in it which is released by the action of sawing it will either bend outwards into the fence (potentially causing a jam) or inwards towards the blade potentially contacting the rising teeth - in both of those cases a kickback can arise. If you shorten the fence, as it would be in the European short rip fence, then the first (trapping) problem wouldn't occur as there would be no Obstrucction (fence) to the free warping of the offcut to cause the trapping, but the second instance could still occur. Either way (left or right tilt) with a fine offcut outboard of the blade there is a chance of it contacting the rising teeth of the blade and being ejected as a projectile.

I'm personally not in favour of left tilters simply because they tilt the top of the blade towards where my hand would naturally be positioned to control timber when making a crosscut with a rolling carraige or mitre fence - and that I find unacceptable.

Maybe one other point - in Europe we use a short rip fence (generally a rip fence with a sliding insert) and all our locally built saws are right tilters.

Phil

[Rick Christopherson]

Thanks for all the input.

I noticed that everyone must have read halfway through my first post and got all worked up about the left right tilt debate that they skipped over my last question.

Is it correct that such a saw would require a 2 wire 220 V supply?
Or will it need a 3 wire?
Yes, I noticed your original question, but I assumed someone would have addressed it by now. You are correct that your saw would need a 2-wire connection Plus Ground. You do not need a 3-wire connection, as the Neutral is not needed.

[Nancy Laird]

The saw requires a neutral and a ground. They are connected together in the main panel of the building.

That said there is a requirement in most saws for a neutral, as the control windings on the magnetic starters are operated by 115V not 230V.

So, make sure that you have a three wire circuit.

Also most "Unisaw" type saws have a 3hp motor and the will normally draw 15amps under full load. A lot of installations use a 20amp breaker and if the motor is 100% good they never give you problems. I use a 30amp circuit just so that I will never "pop" a breaker during start-up. A motor can draw 600% of the rated current during start-up and still be a good motor. That draw is only for a very short time, like a spike, but can cause a "popped" breaker in certain circumstances.

David

[Gregg Feldstone]

I bought a left tilt unisaw as my first ever tablesaw. It has worked fine and I got left tilt because I read so many articles claiming it would be safer. If I were currently looking for a saw I would get the Sawstop!!
I've seen one in person and it seems to be built as well or better than the competitors. I have not seen the weiner test in person but have talked to people who have and have heard the testimonials of those who have had close calls and kept their fingers only because they were using a Sawstop.
The extra $1600 is definitly worth it to me, and I would have simply financed whatever portion of the price I couldn't affort at the time.
I don't think any serious woodworkers are crazy enough to intentionaly do something that would put their body in contact with the blade...even on a sawstop...it's still just as scarry to even think about. I wish they had already been out there and proven a couple years ago when I bought my saw. I plan to buy one eventually.....so don't take a loss like I will and start out with the safest saw around.

[Rick Christopherson]

The saw requires a neutral and a ground. They are connected together in the main panel of the building.

That said there is a requirement in most saws for a neutral, as the control windings on the magnetic starters are operated by 115V not 230V.
Careful there David. This is not correct, but because you just stated this with authority you will get people to believe it is. I really liked your previous posting because it was one of the rare cases where someone stepped up with a relatively non-biased presentation on this topic.

However, the ground and Neutral conductors are not interchangeable, and the Neutral is not required for a tablesaw. I can also assure you that a proper magnetic contactor does not require the Neutral unless it is a kludge from a previous owner. Most tablesaw motor contactors will either operate at the line voltage or at low voltage (24 V with a transformer), but you will rarely find a factory contactor with a pull-in coil of 120 volts when the line rating is 240 volts.

So please don't tell people they need a 3-wire system when it is not required.

You also touched on another misconception regarding the wire size. A 20 amp breaker will not trip with a 3 hp motor unless the wiring was improper to begin with. Advising people to blindly install a 30 amp breaker is not prudent. If you are tripping breakers with a 3 hp motor, then you have more of a problem than just upsizing the circuit.

[Brad Wright]

...all our locally built saws are right tilters.

Phil

Hi Scrit! (Phil):D

My British-built Startrite is a left-tilter. I like it a lot.

Brad

[Dick Bringhurst]

Nancy, I thought your response was really informative and excellent. Thanks. Dick B.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

That said there is a requirement in most saws for a neutral, as the control windings on the magnetic starters are operated by 115V not 230V.
David
David, do you have an example in mind? I personally have never seen or heard of a 240V saw that requires 120V for the starter.

[jeremy levine]

Rick Christopherson touched on a point that was rubbing me the wrong way also.

Don't over size a breaker. 30 amps is a monster breaker. The peak instant load on a breaker it much higher than the "amps" rating. You should not be tripping a 20 amp unless there is a real problem.

[Nancy Laird]

Nancy, I thought your response was really informative and excellent. Thanks. Dick B.

Thank you, Dick, but I can't take credit for it. My husband wrote that response, and just in case anyone doubts his qualifications to state what he said, he has:
28 years in the Navy as an electronics technician;
about 20 years of "side" work in electrical work, and acquiring and holding several electrical permits in the Commonwealth of Virginia;
having attended and passed (with flying colors) a three-semester course at Old Dominion University on the National Electrical Code;
13 years of owning and operating a Delta Unisaw; AND
nearly 9 years of selling such saws and other large woodworking machines.

I think he knows whereof he speaks, Rick's comments notwithstanding! :confused: :confused:

Nancy

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Are the overwhelming majority really left tilt?
I doubt it.

Historically, Delta, General, and the most of the clones thereof (Jet, Grizzly, etc) were right-tilt. Powermatic and Craftsman were left-tilt. Within the last 5-10 years, a number of new left-tilt models have been introduced.

So, among current models, there's a preponderance of left-tilts, but I suspect that if you surveyed all saws currently in use, it would be close to 50-50.

[Norman Hitt]

First off I want to state that I could care less what saw somebody buys or uses. It's not my shop and I don't sell saws. What I do care about, however, is misinformation and myths. This is one myth that drives me nuts becuase there is no basis for it, yet it gets repeated with such regularity that no one even questions it.

Trapping the workpiece under the blade is not going to cause a kickback. As a matter of fact, a kickback is more likely when the workpiece is sitting above the blade that it will be below the blade. In order for a kickback situation to propagate into a full kickback, the workpiece must catch a forward moving tooth of the blade. Since the sawblade plate is holding the workpiece from lifting up, and the fence is holding it from moving to the side, it can't reach the forward moving teeth of the blade.

On the other hand, when the blade is tilted away from the fence, the workpiece can easily move upward, diagonally across the blade plate to the forward moving teeth. The blade not only doesn't stop it from moving in that direction, it helps it move in that direction. Moreover, the harder the operator tries to stop the propagation of the kickback by holding the workpiece down, the more friction will tend to pull it sideways.

Pick what ever saw you want; just don't use trapping the workpiece as the main basis for the decision.

Rick, In theory, your reasoning is sound, and I personally have never had a kickback from "trapping", BUT, for whatever reason they occurred, I personally have seen the results of 4 kickbacks that happened to other folks that I knew, many years ago, where the wood was trapped between the tilted blade and the fence, and in two cases, the sawblade was also ruined by those kickbacks besides the personal injuries and damage to one shop wall. I think murphy's law should state, "Never say Never".:D

[Rick Christopherson]

Rick, In theory, your reasoning is sound, and I personally have never had a kickback from "trapping", BUT, for whatever reason they occurred, I personally have seen the results of 4 kickbacks that happened to other folks that I knew, many years ago, where the wood was trapped between the tilted blade and the fence, and in two cases, the sawblade was also ruined by those kickbacks besides the personal injuries and damage to one shop wall. I think murphy's law should state, "Never say Never". :DNorman,
I didn't say that a kickback can't occur. I said that the act of trapping the workpiece is not going to cause the kickback. You are correct; Never say never, because under extreme conditions trapping can cause a kickback, but under these extremes, the kickback would probably occur regardless of the tilt.

However there is a flaw in your rationale that trapping caused the kickbacks you mentioned. It is kind of like the statistic that 90% of all driver accidents occur within 5 miles from home. The accidents don’t happen because you are near your home. The statistic is because 90% of a person’s driving is within 5 miles from their home, and therefore, most accidents occur where a driver drives most frequently.

What I am trying to say is that just because someone had a kickback with the blade tilted toward the fence does not mean that the kickback was caused by the trapping of the wood. There are many different causes for the many different types of kickback. More often than not, the kickback was caused by a binding situation, and therefore would have occurred regardless whether the blade was tilted toward the fence, away from the fence, or not tilted at all.

[Rick Christopherson]

...I think he knows whereof he speaks, Rick's comments notwithstanding! :confused: :confused:

Nancy Nancy,
I am sorry that either you or David took offense to my posting, but nevertheless, the information stands and I will not retract it. David mistakenly tried to correct my original posting and now you have followed this up by listing his qualifications as a rebuttal.

I am not infallible and I do make mistakes, but this is not one of those times.

Most questions about woodworking are opinion-based, and there is no right or wrong answer. However, most questions about electrical issues are NOT opinion-based, and there typically IS a right and wrong answer.

When I am unsure about an electrical topic, I make sure that readers understand that I am speaking from speculation. However, when I speak with authority, especially on a rebuttal reply, you can rest assured that the information is correct.

That being said, if David still wishes to contest my original assertion that a standard domestic tablesaw requires no more than a 2-wire connection, plus ground, then show me the saw. If you dig hard enough, you might find a specialty saw that requires a 3-wire connection, but it is the exception, not the rule.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I am an Electrical Technologist, and I have never seen a 240 volt single phase saw that need a neutral for the magnetic starter.

The starter will either have a line voltage coil (230 or 240 volt) or use a control transformer to step the line voltage down to the rated coil voltage.

You will need two current carrying conductors and a ground wire.

Note that house wire (Romex or BX) does not count the ground conductor so you would need either 12/2 or 10/2 depending upon the motor current.

The cab tyre (Flexible cord) that you attach to the saw to plug it in, does count the ground conductor so you would need 12/3 or 10/3 depending upon the motor current.

Regards, Rod.

[Art Mann]

Credentials don't always imply knowledge, especially on a message board where you don't know the person with whom you are conversing.

Edit: My experience is the same as Rod's.

[Brian Penning]

Travis,
FWIW I have the General 250(ie, right tilt) and am very happy with it. No problems at all.
I strongly suggest you get the right side extension table. Otherwise it's a bit tippy imo.
You should perhaps also get your dealer to throw in the ext table with the deal. Mine did.

Also, the saw came with the wire and plug. Like below configuration. Was a piece of cake for the electrician. After checking my wiring(12/2 I think) he just replaced the 110V receptacle that was there and the breaker in the panel.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/298281_front500.jpg

[Mike Seals]

The saw requires a neutral and a ground. They are connected together in the main panel of the building.

David

I'm not familiar with this practice. Are you refering to the main panel as the meter box or disconnect?

[Todd Solomon]

Hey creekers,

Just want to get an opinion on which saw you would prefer:

General International 50-260 for ~$1,900 (w/o ext. table)
or
Steel City 35618 for $1,950 (w/ ext. table and legs)

Both have similar specs., but Steel City has 5 year warranty.

Also, when wiring in, am I correct to assume a 2 wire 220 V supply?

Thanks

Travis,

Just to throw another into the mix, you're approaching the price of a Powermatic 2000. This has the advantage of a true riving knife, which virtually eliminates kick-back. The built-in casters are also a bonus. This is the one I would seriously consider, at that price level.

Todd

[Justin McCurdy]

I just bought the 35618 SC saw that you were talking about. It was priced at 1599 with a 150 rebate on top of that. I must say, I am happy with the results. I had a couple of light scratches on the table saw top, but they told me how to remove them and sent me a new blade for my troubles. The directions are easy to follow, but could use a little more added to them. I sent this to one of their engineers and they have acknowledged them as valid points that will make it into the next rev of the manual.

1: In the manual, where there is the part breakdown for the fence, there are a few farts listed as hex screws, 4 being hex screws, the other 2 being hex cap bolts but both are listed under the same item number. As these do appear physically different, you might want to separate them on the itemized list as this can be confusing for the person doing the assembly.

2. It might seem like common sense to someone who has constructed a large saw before, but making a note in the manual that the laminated side of the table board is supposed to be the exposed end would be good.

3. A note for users with mobile bases: while putting on the extension legs, make sure to check the spacing of the necessary feet position on the mobile base. For instance, the delta base will have both feet well inside the corners of the table board. Since there is no mention in the manual of checking this before attaching the legs to the base, I just assumed and ended up needing to do it twice. Not a big deal, but worth the extra sentence in the manual.

4. I called last week to ask about cupping on the table board. Well, it is there. There needs to be at least 1 if not 2 holes in one of the cast iron wings so that the user can fix the cupping by screwing through the table board and into the cast iron wings. I might have to end up drilling these holes myself because the cupping is that bad. I think it will affect the fence sliding. Deltas have the same problem, or so I have read online. By adding the extra holes you would add another well thought out feature that would put you above them. I have perfectly aligned the two sides of the table board with the cast iron extension, but the middle still sags. This transition between the wing and table board is pretty important.

5. This is another important one. The hex screws used to attach the front rail to the cast iron need to be just a little longer, maybe ¼”. When the lock washer has not yet been “crushed”, it shrinks the available thread so much that it can be next to impossible to get it started. Another remedy is to tell the user to pre-crush the lock washer by screwing down the nut the whole way before attempting to do the same with the rail and cast iron in between.



That being said, even at the same ending price of around 1500, I chose the Steel City over the Delta X5. I researched them for about 2 months at the point of getting laughed at by the local power tool dealer for making a pilgrimage to their store once a week. The extension table is also constructed using better quality wood than the Delta. All the Delta's that I looked at used pine strips with tons of knots. The SC used plywood (more structurally sound) and I found out that the glues used will hold up better in cold weather. I have come to the conclusion that the SC fence is superior to Biesemeyer. I'll take parallel machining over plywood with double sided tape any day. The casing on the saw itself not only looks better on the SC, but I am convinced it is more structurally sound. The cast iron top arrived perfectly square to the blade, yeah! One thing I would suggest though is if you do not have any heavy machinery to lift the saw, open up the main box and remove the accesories from the side and inside of the saw as well as the 2 case iron extension wings from the top of the table. This will save you some backache in the long run.

Steel City also has the best customer service around. I have dealt with them all and there is nothing like talking to someone who knows their product and can make things right if they are wrong.

This is just my $.02 and I am just an ordinary user, no affiliation.

Justin