Some router table info PLEASE...........UPDATE!!!!!!! [Archive]

Mark Rios

10-30-2006, 11:11 PM

When you folks make your router tables (not the cabs, but the actual tables), you usually laminate a couple of pieces of MDF, right? At least that's the usual material that I've seen (read) and been told to use. When you glue the two pieces together, how much do you worry about the finished table being flat? Is there an allowable "bow" in one direction or the other, either across the width or the length?

When you're done, you lay some sort of straightedge on it right? and check it for flatness? May I assmue that whether you use a $400 Starret or your favorite four foot level that you are looking for a relatively flat table? One that has no discernable bows? Maybe a small gap or two but no bows right?

I'm not building a table (not yet anyway) but I'm trying to get a reasonable expectation for my "second", 27" x 43", Woodpecker offset router table. The primary bow is along the length. This second table has more of a bow than the first one, about 1/8", but the bow is gradual this time. The first one turned up at the ends in about the last 6 to 8 inches. On this second one however, there is also a bow across the width at the router plate cut-out.

I called Woodpecker today after trying to shim the table for the first half of the day. I was told that a little bow is okay. I was also told to adjust my (new) PRL plate a hair higher than the table and adjust the (Incra LS) fence to the router plate to get it square and not worry too much about the table. This just doesn't sound right to me at all. Incidentally, I cannot adjust my PRL plate flat/level with the table top. It seems to me that the top has a twist in it (I'm assumng that the PRL plate is flat).

Can you folks tell me a little about what you find acceptable as far as the flatness of your tables is concerned? Shouldn't I at least be able to level the plate to the table at all four corners?

Thank you very much for any help/advice you can give me.

David Rose

10-30-2006, 11:41 PM

Mark,

If I am reading right, the only flat area on your table is the plate. That means you will have to use the plate for all levelling of the work piece. If the table is low at the right, you will have to raise the work before you hit the cutter for many cuts. If it is high either place, you cannot have a straight cut on a long piece.

I haven't dealt with Woodpecker, so I don't know what they will do. I think I would ask them for another opinion, if that is an option. If you are stuck with the one salesman, I would be a bit upset.

Other than a part of the table that you don't use (maybe the back edges?), I think the table should be as flat as possible. If you have .010" error, you may have to sand that much out between rails and stiles. I sand out that much frequently, but not by choice. And that is with a table flatter than that. The sanding/planing/scraping must be done front and back for "feel right", and feathered into the next rail/stile to look right with much gloss.

David, who lusts for a cast iron FLAT table

Mark Rios

10-30-2006, 11:59 PM

The rail and stile issue is my main concern right now David. I've got a set of cabinet doors to build and I don't want to have a repeat of my rail and stile fiasco from last year. That's why I bought a whole new router table kit, to be able to get a dependable result/product from my router table.

Where does one get a cast iron router table? Or an aluminum one for that matter? Can you get them with the cut-out for a router lift/plate? I tell you I'm ready for one. I'm very frustrated right now. I still have to set up my Incra fence. I'm told that it takes the good guys about 2 to 3 hours. It'll probably take me all day.

Bart Leetch

10-31-2006, 12:14 AM

Mark

I am just wondering if your situation doesn't have a lot to do with the size of the table your attempting to build?

Is is possible that you could build yourself a torsion box assembly table top to to build you router table top on so that you would be able to clamp it down dead flat.

This is something that Steve Jenkins down in Texas uses for I think all of his assembly & his work is beautiful. He has several different sized torsion box table tops that he sets up depending on what he needs.

The base of my CMS/Spindle Sander/Portable planer/Mortiser & mechanic tools cabinet is built with a Torsion base.

A torsion box is something you can use over & over again so building one to build you big router table flat will be a plus from now on.

Mark Rios

10-31-2006, 12:43 AM

Sorry for the confusion Bart. I'm not building a table (yet). I purchased a table from Woodpecker and it was curved at the ends creating a bow and the second (replacement) table is bowed as well.

I may have to build one but after Daves post, I just might have to try to find a cast iron or aluminum one. I really don't have the time right now for the learnig curve to build one.

David Rose

10-31-2006, 12:55 AM

Sadly, I don't think a cast iron one is available. I hope that I am wrong. I've shiimmed and reshimmed my doubled plywood table. I think I could have done better with MDF. The plywood pieces had crown, which I turned in. That did not make it "quite" flat, and it did not stay as flat as it started.

Lee Valley has a small steel one. But it has a center crown to help compensate for the router weight, and it is smaller than I want. I want a FLAT table! I even once considered granite, but the cost of milling was more than I wanted to pay. And worse, I would have been stuck with what I got with no customization.

For now, I will settle for keeping my table as flat as possible, knowing that I will have to put the cabinet scraper to work after milling. If anyone ever comes up with a truly flat table, at a price that I can afford (which is growing), I will be very interested. Someone on ebay offered a couple of saw table wings recently. That perked my interest but there were not enough specs.

I wish you success, and PLEASE post if you come up with something that is "right".

David

The rail and stile issue is my main concern right now David. I've got a set of cabinet doors to build and I don't want to have a repeat of my rail and stile fiasco from last year. That's why I bought a whole new router table kit, to be able to get a dependable result/product from my router table.

Where does one get a cast iron router table? Or an aluminum one for that matter? Can you get them with the cut-out for a router lift/plate? I tell you I'm ready for one. I'm very frustrated right now. I still have to set up my Incra fence. I'm told that it takes the good guys about 2 to 3 hours. It'll probably take me all day.

glenn bradley

10-31-2006, 1:46 AM

I am currently rebuilding my RT as I developed a sag due to inadequate support (on my part) of the top. Everything was fine till I hung a big ole whompin' Milwaukee router and a dust enclosure from the table without addind additional support.

At any rate. . . If the table is not DEAD FLAT you will get irregular cut depth / width. We go to a lot of trouble to get the profile just right during setup. You don't want to travel your material over an irregular surface on the way to, across or departing the bit.

I have some 'pretty flat' surfaces in my shop but for the RT top glue up I'll drape a drop cloth over my table saw and use it as a reference/clamping surface. I gotta get around to making that torsion box!

glenn bradley

10-31-2006, 1:50 AM

Bench dog and MLCS both make cast iron router tables. I'd love to go to one of those and hopefully solve any sag problems. I just can't quite get myself to pony up the dough yet. I'm still a major rookie and wouldn't want to be without any excuses for my work.

Chuck Hanger

10-31-2006, 2:26 AM

This was the ad from a recommended supplier. Anything but. Ended up making additional 1" sub base out of 2 1/2" plys glued and clamped flat in a press and pulling down the outer edges with 6 1/4" counter sunk flat head bolts. Lot of extra work.
Chuck

Dead flat, super smooth... This is the best way to finish off your custom router table

http://www.hartvilletool.com/shared/images/products/medium/RouterTable.JPEG

(javascript:void(0)) (javascript:void(0))
Design Router Table Top

Our solid MDF table top has high pressure laminate on both sides (not melamine). The removable 9" x 12" composite plate has a patented leveling system for a flush fit, a brass starting pin, and a snap out center disk which accepts Porter-Cable style template guides. Our Utili-Tape T-Track gives a solid method of attaching your fence (slot accepts the head of any 1/4-20 bolt), and provides a built in reference for making settings and adjustments. Aluminum miter channel guides standard 3/4" x 3/8" miter gauges. Top is approx. 24" x 32" and is 1-1/16" thick. USA

49294

David Rose

10-31-2006, 2:32 AM

Thanks Glenn! I had not seen those. I guess I'm shopping again, serious big time shopping...

David

Bench dog and MLCS both make cast iron router tables. I'd love to go to one of those and hopefully solve any sag problems. I just can't quite get myself to pony up the dough yet. I'm still a major rookie and wouldn't want to be without any excuses for my work.

David Rose

10-31-2006, 2:40 AM

My current table is 37 1/2 x 27 1/2. Both these tables are much smaller. I am still shopping... and check to see if I might cut down my table size.

Thanks,

David

Bench dog and MLCS both make cast iron router tables. I'd love to go to one of those and hopefully solve any sag problems. I just can't quite get myself to pony up the dough yet. I'm still a major rookie and wouldn't want to be without any excuses for my work.

Mack Cameron

10-31-2006, 7:22 AM

The rail and stile issue is my main concern right now David. I've got a set of cabinet doors to build and I don't want to have a repeat of my rail and stile fiasco from last year. That's why I bought a whole new router table kit, to be able to get a dependable result/product from my router table.

[quote]Where does one get a cast iron router table?
LV's item 05J20.01 is described as a 16" X 24" steel plate. I have 2 of them which I use for rail and stiles.

Chris Barton

10-31-2006, 7:39 AM

pat warner

10-31-2006, 9:23 AM

Can be done, but substantially difficult if the top is screwed up to begin with.
Tips at the RT link. (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html)

Travis Porter

10-31-2006, 9:32 AM

Couldn't you put say ribs on the bottom with screws and force it straight?

I too would want it as flat as possible.

Mark Rios

10-31-2006, 9:41 AM

Travis, I was shimming that stinkin' thing all day yesterday.

I really need to get a table set up. I'm going to need to start milling the rails and stiles pretty soon. Well, maybe not too soon if I have to keep wasting days shimming and leveling.

Please give me your opinions on this…

Should I have to shim and level a pre-(factory)made table?

I need a flat, accurate table of any size for my current job but I also, at some point, need a 27" x 43", or thereabouts, table for my Incra LS Super fence system. If I'm willing to pay for a table, I feel it should be flat.

Any comments? Please continue with your advice and opinions.

Larry Crim

10-31-2006, 9:53 AM

Mark
I have the same set up as you except the table is the larger version. I ran into the same problems and could not get it shimmed to stay flat so I ended up getting some 1.5" angle iron and mounting it on the inside of the cabinet and leveling that then I attached the top to it and all it needed was some very minor shimming to get it flat that was 3 years ago and still flat, I used it all around the cabinet and then two across the middle It would not be a good thing if you had to rely on the router plate to ensure your stock was squared and level. If you need pm me and I will send you some pics from inside the cabinet to give you some ideas.
larry

Reg Mitchell

10-31-2006, 9:59 AM

Harbor Freight has a cast Iron table top. you can get it delivered, for me from Ca. to Tn., for $62.
vendor part no.....50500002 - table top
Reg

Laurie Brown

10-31-2006, 10:37 AM

I used two pieces of 3/4" MDF glued together, without any lamination, for my top. I've never even checked it for flatness, but based on the work pieces I've made on it, it's probably the flatest tool in my shop. I've never had any problems cutting stiles or rails on it. It's roughly 37" x 27" in size and edged with poplar.

Joe Jensen

10-31-2006, 10:46 AM

Mark, have you considered a real shaper? By the time you spend all the money on plates and tables and lifts and what-not, you could easily have bought a proper used 3HP shaper. Router tables are ok, but they are a 100% replacement for a shaper.

Having said that, I just built a new outfeed table/router table/storage cabinet. I vacuum pressed two sheets of MDF together and use the top of my saw/shaper table system to ensure it was flat. The top ended up very flat, but to be safe, I made a very sturdy cabinet below using doubled up sheets of 3/4" plywood, and the top is securely fastened to this very rigid base. I know the top of the base is flat because it relies on the straight cuts made on each sheet of plywood. If you are set on a router table, I say build a super strong and flat base...joe

When you folks make your router tables (not the cabs, but the actual tables), you usually laminate a couple of pieces of MDF, right? At least that's the usual material that I've seen (read) and been told to use. When you glue the two pieces together, how much do you worry about the finished table being flat? Is there an allowable "bow" in one direction or the other, either across the width or the length?

When you're done, you lay some sort of straightedge on it right? and check it for flatness? May I assmue that whether you use a $400 Starret or your favorite four foot level that you are looking for a relatively flat table? One that has no discernable bows? Maybe a small gap or two but no bows right?

I'm not building a table (not yet anyway) but I'm trying to get a reasonable expectation for my "second", 27" x 43", Woodpecker offset router table. The primary bow is along the length. This second table has more of a bow than the first one, about 1/8", but the bow is gradual this time. The first one turned up at the ends in about the last 6 to 8 inches. On this second one however, there is also a bow across the width at the router plate cut-out.

I called Woodpecker today after trying to shim the table for the first half of the day. I was told that a little bow is okay. I was also told to adjust my (new) PRL plate a hair higher than the table and adjust the (Incra LS) fence to the router plate to get it square and not worry too much about the table. This just doesn't sound right to me at all. Incidentally, I cannot adjust my PRL plate flat/level with the table top. It seems to me that the top has a twist in it (I'm assumng that the PRL plate is flat).

Can you folks tell me a little about what you find acceptable as far as the flatness of your tables is concerned? Shouldn't I at least be able to level the plate to the table at all four corners?

Thank you very much for any help/advice you can give me.

Travis Porter

10-31-2006, 10:53 AM

Should I have to shim and level a pre-(factory)made table?

No, you should not, but is this one of those cases you get what you pay for? You would be cheaper and probably easier using a plain piece of 3/4 MDF and cut out a slot for your plate.

I have the Jessem top, and it is flat. I did bolt angle aluminum to it so I could fasten it to my cabinet.

Mark Rios

10-31-2006, 11:43 AM

I agree about the "get what you pay for" thing, Travis. But I"m buying from Woodpecker and I thought that they were in the better catagory.

I just got off the phone with "JUSTIN" from Woodpecker. He's the person I talked to yesterday. He started getting mouthy with me and was saying that I wasn't willing to listen to what he wanted to tell me regarding shimming procedures. He contiinually talked over me and interrupted me when I would try to explain what was going on. He tired to tell me that I didn't know how to shim it properly or that I wasn't shimming it properly. He wouldn't listen to me when I told him that it had a twist in the table. He KEPT repeating that, without any braces at all and just laying on my torsion box, the 1/8" bow across the length was acceptable and that I wasn't going to find a table from ANYONE that would be flatter than theirs out of the box.

He was actually arguing with me that "flat" was a tolerance issue and that the only way that I would be satisfied would be to buy a $40,000 reference table. He also repeated that since there was no way that I was going to be happy with anything they sent that he was just going to issue a refund. I kept telling him that I just wanted a flat table and he just kept repeating that I had the flattest table made.

This was NOT a good customer service experience. This conversation and the way I was treated was VERY different from past experiences that I've had with them. He also wasn't willing to let me talk to anyone else. I asked 3 or 4 times to talk to someone else and he just kept saying that he was the guy to talk to.

He calmed down after a bit and after I mentioned that I was in the middle of a thread about this issue online. The conversation finally ended with him telling me that he would go back to the warehouse and check through tables and see if there was a flat enough one there and call me back.

I ask you, they have to check to see if they have a flat table?

Now, I'm just waiting for him to call back to tell me if I have to wait ANOTHER week for the table to get here and continue the ordeal. However he did say that I wasn't going to get a table from them that wouldn't require some sort of shimming.

Amazing.

Any suggestions, opinions, help? Travis mentioned Jessum. I'll go look at theirs. Anyone else have a source for a flat table? I need one approximately 27" x 43" to accommodate my fence set-up.

BTW, I was wondering why the tops would bend/bow in the first place. I'm sure that they weren't made that way. Their tables only have the laminate surface on the top and the edges. The bottom is a material that looks like the face of MDF or something similiar. Could that be why it's bowing, uneven moisture/expansion?

Maybe I'll just have to take the time to build one. I've already waited two weeks and now a third if they send me another one. Any tutorials out there for building a flat top? I don't know how I'm going to laminate two pieces of MDF together flat without a vacuum press. How do you folks do it.

Man I'm frustrated. Thanks for the vent.

And thanks again for any and all help in this matter.

Al Willits

10-31-2006, 11:55 AM

fwiw my Rockler premade is a heck of a lot flater than yours, probably a bit smaller, but if it was an 1/8" off I'd either return it or throw it away.

Your buying from the up side of Rockler and having to live with 1/8"??

Not to sure I'd be happy.

Al

Mark Rios

10-31-2006, 12:17 PM

Justin just called me back and said that they had nothing that I'd be happy with. What??????? He kept saying that I wasn't going to find a table that would be flatter. He is going to refund my card.

Now I have to start a search for a new table. Maybe I should take a trip over the hill and have a look at what Woodcraft has to offer. Man....another half day wasted.

Ed Kowaski

10-31-2006, 1:11 PM

Interesting story Mark, thanks for posting it.

If you want to spend a bit of cash Reid Supply sells steel machine bases. The tops are 1/2" thick steel welded to a heavy steel base and blanchard ground to +- 0.002" / foot. Sizes listed are from 24x24 to 30x72 and whatever height you want up to 63". They list the product as custom made so it's possible the manufacturer would mill the top for your lift. If not you could probably find a local machine shop could do the milling.

edit; speeling ;)

Randal Stevenson

10-31-2006, 2:09 PM

Harbor Freight has a cast Iron table top. you can get it delivered, for me from Ca. to Tn., for $62.
vendor part no.....50500002 - table top
Reg

Part number isn't good. Should be in a form like 45470-(#)vga (never seen one more then then five digits). Also, why would they get it delivered to you? Birthday coming up, LOL:p

Jim Becker

10-31-2006, 2:22 PM

I did check mine for flat when I laminated it...no problems. I also put the plastic laminate on both sides to insure it added no tension to the mix.

Mark Rios

10-31-2006, 2:35 PM

I did check mine for flat when I laminated it...no problems. I also put the plastic laminate on both sides to insure it added no tension to the mix.
Thanks Jim. Do I remember correctly that (at one time anyway) you had a tutorial on building/making a router table?

I seem to remember you referring to your point of laminating both sides and what you did for the edges but it may also have just in a post instead of a tutorial. I looks on your website and didn't see one.

Thanks again.

Reg Mitchell

10-31-2006, 3:38 PM

Travis Porter

10-31-2006, 4:10 PM

Mark, to put it mildly, that sucks.

There are tolerances, but the tolerances shouldn't be plus or minus an 1/8". Strapping angle aluminum or iron to the bottom of it would pull it out. When I built the cabinet for the jessem top it had pre tapped holes for support/attachment and I believe it stiffens the top as well.

If you are going to make stile and rail doors, I would think you would have trouble with the parts rocking if the table isn't flat.

Kyle Robinson

10-31-2006, 4:13 PM

thanks for posting this story. I thought Woodpecker was one of the better suppliers and that their tables would be flat. According to their website

MDF as a core material is about perfect, all things considered. It has a thickness tolerance of +/- .005” for a ¾” thick sheet versus .034” for a similar thickness piece of solid phenolic.

That's why all Woodpecker Router Tables are made with multiple layers of MDF for the core, and horizontal grade phenolic laminate for the surface.

That quality process yields the flattest possible router table with all the benefits of a phenolic wear surface without the negative drawbacks of a thick piece of laminate. http://www.woodpeck.com/phenvsmdf.html

Phil Thien

10-31-2006, 4:23 PM

Flat is very important. In the picture of my router table below I used a 1" thick Baltic birch top that cost me a small fortune. But, it is as nearly dead flat as any piece of wood can be. And, it probably weighs in at about the same amount as the same sized top in 1/4" steel. I like a large table top and find that few of the "ready made" tables or tops are adequately sized.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=26606&d=1133116264

I'll 2nd the use of BB. I only used 3/4" because of my smaller table. But it started flat and hasn't deviated from flat since being laminated on both sides, having a lift hole cut in it, and getting mounted as an extension wing. I can't imagine I'd be able to get the same results from MDF.

Dennis Peacock

10-31-2006, 5:29 PM

OK....please allow me to toss in an idea here. It may not be a great idea, but an idea none the less.....:rolleyes:

You can make a nice RT top out of 2 by 4's laminated together (face to face) and then plane both sides and make it to fit your cabinet. Make the top surface to where is dead flat via sanding, hand planing, wide belt sanding, just pick your poison here. When done, laminate the edges first, then laminate the top and bottom. It will be heavy, flat, and durable.

My first RT was made from plywood thrown away by a builder and scraps of construction grade pine boards. It lasted me around 13 years before I got rid of it and upgraded.

Just my 2¢ on the topic.:D

Phil Thien

10-31-2006, 8:34 PM

Their tables only have the laminate surface on the top and the edges. The bottom is a material that looks like the face of MDF or something similiar. Could that be why it's bowing, uneven moisture/expansion?

Yep. You may be seeing a backer on the bottom, which I suppose can look sorta like MDF. This is essentially a HPL (High Pressure Laminate) w/o the finish layer. Both sides need to be laminated, but they may use a backer on the bottom to save money.

It is entirely possible that they don't use a backer. I've seen it quite often. Always leads to moisture imbalance and sagging. Sometimes there is adequate support (countertop) to hold it in shape. But the truth is, the sagging still occurs, it is just harder to see.

-Phil

Paul Greathouse

10-31-2006, 10:01 PM

Mark

About 3 years ago I built the Norm Abrams/New Yankee workshop router table. It consists of two 3/4 inch pieces of MDF glued and screwed togeather. The top is covered with laminate and the edges are banded with hardwood. I used some scrape oak on mine. I installed a benchdog lift and PC7518 router on mine and there is no sag.

The video and measured drawing were easy to understand. I built the top and fence and installed the lift and router in less than two days time. I feel that is was well worth the effort. If you have the knowledge to build cabinets and doors, Norms router table shouldn't be a problem for you.

You can order the plans from the New Yankee Workshop website or from Rockler.

Mitchell Garnett

10-31-2006, 10:46 PM

Part number isn't good. Should be in a form like 45470-(#)vga (never seen one more then then five digits).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45470

Roger Myers

10-31-2006, 10:58 PM

Mark,
As someone earlier suggested, Lee valley has a metal plate (and also accessories) that I use as one of my router tables... if I recall, and I may be wrong, they put a very small amount of curve in the plate so that the weight of the router brings it dead flat... Mine certainly appears dead flat... It is not as large a plate as you describe ultimately wanting, but could be inset into a torsion box.. and the critical area around the router would still be dead flat.
And, as for cutomer service,well, in my opinion, they are the benchmark company.
Roger

David Rose

10-31-2006, 11:40 PM

Roger, I agree with you about Lee Valley as a company and about most of their products. But here is what they say about the table:
"Many router tables claim to be flat, and some even are, until you mount a router to them and they suddenly become concave. Each Veritas® router table top is a 16" x 24" steel plate that has been hand tuned to have a slight upward curve. This curve is specifically set so that the weight of the router cannot deform the router table to concave. Whatever the weight of your router, the Veritas router table top will always be slightly convex, with the highest point adjacent to the bit, so your depth of cut will always be exactly as set. Because the plate is steel, it will not sag over time, as ma..."

Their table is designed to retain the convex shape to some extent. It appears that would have to add some angle to any cut, especially something like a sticking cut. I think LV told me that the crown is around .015".

David

Mark,
As someone earlier suggested, Lee valley has a metal plate (and also accessories) that I use as one of my router tables... if I recall, and I may be wrong, they put a very small amount of curve in the plate so that the weight of the router brings it dead flat... Mine certainly appears dead flat... It is not as large a plate as you describe ultimately wanting, but could be inset into a torsion box.. and the critical area around the router would still be dead flat.
And, as for cutomer service,well, in my opinion, they are the benchmark company.
Roger

Randal Stevenson

11-01-2006, 12:32 AM

LOL Randal...I have in still in the box just waiting for the day I can have enough time to get it in my saw. It was already my birthday. Oh the number is the vendor no I will look tonight to get the other number
Reg
There is a thread somewhere in SMC that talks about this same topic and a guy that has pics of it installed

I found the thread your talking about. And it appears the model I discussed, and Mitchell Garnett, posted a link to (Not allowed by TOS I believe).

Now if that table was set up for a riser plate, I would be happy. I will probably build a "Mr. Sawdust" style top (2 layers of mdf, with steel bars on edge for support in between them), and leave the opening for the riser.

Brad Kimbrell

11-01-2006, 3:38 AM

I was at the Woodworking Show in Louisville, KY last month and Marc Sommerfeld was talking about his new "Extruded Aluminum" router table system. I was very impressed, but as they say "it ain't cheap".

It is listed for $299.90 w/o the fence. The fence is another $199.90 but I think I read that you have an Incra-Jig that you will use as a fence.

He actually had a phenollic table on the unit he was demonstrating, but he said that even those are not capable of staying as flat as the new extruded aluminum one will.

I'm sold and plan on replacing my "Norm" laminated top with one very soon. As soon as I recover from my latest purchase that started out to be a DJ-20 and ended up including the 12" Delta Sanding Center as well. Small Gloat as it replaced my 30 year old Craftsman 6" Jointer and 9" Sander...:rolleyes:

Joe Jensen

11-01-2006, 10:29 AM

I'm amazed that there is a market for router tables this expensive.
Table $300
Fence $200
Lift $200
Router $200
Legs or cabinet $100

That's $1K for a router table. Guys, a good used 3HP shaper will cut circles around a 3HP router (think about the 6HP Sears vacuums). For that $1000 you get a 500 lb cast iron machine.

I was at the Woodworking Show in Louisville, KY last month and Marc Sommerfeld was talking about his new "Extruded Aluminum" router table system. I was very impressed, but as they say "it ain't cheap".

It is listed for $299.90 w/o the fence. The fence is another $199.90 but I think I read that you have an Incra-Jig that you will use as a fence.

He actually had a phenollic table on the unit he was demonstrating, but he said that even those are not capable of staying as flat as the new extruded aluminum one will.

I'm sold and plan on replacing my "Norm" laminated top with one very soon. As soon as I recover from my latest purchase that started out to be a DJ-20 and ended up including the 12" Delta Sanding Center as well. Small Gloat as it replaced my 30 year old Craftsman 6" Jointer and 9" Sander...:rolleyes:

Travis Porter

11-01-2006, 12:29 PM

Joe, I hate to say it, but you are right. I am totally guilty of doing the entire router thing, and have just gotten a shaper, and I am thinking, why didn't I do this 2 years ago? Raising a panel in a single pass at half the noise level is an amazing thing after you have used a router table.

The only reasons I can think of why I did this are:
1. I have (and still am) a bit scared/intimidated of the shaper
2. I was a bit scared of cost of cutters. I got fooled there. I bought a complete Freud raised panel door set for $270 which wasn't much more than I paid for the router bits.
3. I assumed you have to have a power feeder. I still intend to get one, but if you aren't doing large runs or production (which I am not), you can get by without it in my opinion.

PS - I think I spent more than $1k on the router table set up.:(

Joe Jensen

11-01-2006, 7:47 PM