Howard Rosenberg
10-24-2003, 12:26 PM
Hi all - This is one of two cabinets I built to fit into niches in our living room.
Construction is... entirely MDF! (what did you expect?)
As always, I use only dadoes, grooves, rabbets and glue. The only mechanical fasteners are the screws used for the drawer hardware.
The first photo includes the shelves which are the "free-floating" style - they're actually 1/2" MDF skins placed onto welded square tube screwed into the studs and then shimmed for level - left-to-right and front-to-back.
The next two photos show the frame and panel doors.
The frames are 3/4" MDF. I mitred them, reenforced them with biscuits, chamfered the inside & outside edges and routed rabbets for the 1/2" MDF panels to fit into.
I also chamfered the mating frames and panels on the insides to provide something of a reveal.
I used BLUM 110-degree face-frame compatible Euro-hinges.
I took my time lining up the drawer faces and used a reversible drilling jig for the knobs' screws. I glued "false" face frames behind the cabinets' face-frames to hide the drawer hardware.
The last photo shows two of my favourite techniques:
To lighten the appearance of a tabletop, I like to chamfer the top and run an ogee on the bottom.
The second is my cheater's technique extraordinaire!
If the carcases aren't as aquare as I'd like, I chamfer the front and back of the face-frames and extend them beyond the gables. This establishes a discreet reveal, and voila! - instant square carcases!
Thanks for looking. Howard
Construction is... entirely MDF! (what did you expect?)
As always, I use only dadoes, grooves, rabbets and glue. The only mechanical fasteners are the screws used for the drawer hardware.
The first photo includes the shelves which are the "free-floating" style - they're actually 1/2" MDF skins placed onto welded square tube screwed into the studs and then shimmed for level - left-to-right and front-to-back.
The next two photos show the frame and panel doors.
The frames are 3/4" MDF. I mitred them, reenforced them with biscuits, chamfered the inside & outside edges and routed rabbets for the 1/2" MDF panels to fit into.
I also chamfered the mating frames and panels on the insides to provide something of a reveal.
I used BLUM 110-degree face-frame compatible Euro-hinges.
I took my time lining up the drawer faces and used a reversible drilling jig for the knobs' screws. I glued "false" face frames behind the cabinets' face-frames to hide the drawer hardware.
The last photo shows two of my favourite techniques:
To lighten the appearance of a tabletop, I like to chamfer the top and run an ogee on the bottom.
The second is my cheater's technique extraordinaire!
If the carcases aren't as aquare as I'd like, I chamfer the front and back of the face-frames and extend them beyond the gables. This establishes a discreet reveal, and voila! - instant square carcases!
Thanks for looking. Howard