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View Full Version : Edge banding and such...get it flat....



Dennis Peacock
10-23-2003, 1:34 PM
Yes....I have ventured over to the world of hand tools. Since I am starting to like working with planes, chisels and such...I was wondering if there was something I could use to take solid wood edging down to a plywood veneer surface. If wood was sticking up about 1/16" above the top surface of a board that you were wrapping with another type of wood to form a "frame".....what would you use to get it down to the surface of it primary board?

Wow....I just re-read what I typed and "I" am even confused by what I wrote. :)

Maybe this will ask a little better: I have a board that is 3/4" thick that I have done some inlay work on. I want to wrap that board with another wood species to add "shazam" to the overall look. The wood I am using to wrap the inlayed board with is 7/8" thick. I usually leave things like this alone until AFTER the glue up so it can be sanded down to the thickness needed or desired. Is there a scraper or something that could be used. I tried using my block plane, but the exotic wood is too difficult to work with a standard block plane....unless I just don't have something setup correctly...and could be the case. Shoot, I don't know, I'm just trying to figure all this stuff out.

Any way, advise, pointers, new tool purchases are welcomed.

Steven Wilson
10-23-2003, 2:40 PM
Besides using a lipping planner (cool $1000 powertool) I would work it down with by favorite handplane, and if the grain isn't too weird, I would use a Stanley 386 jointer fence on a #5,#6, or #7 so that I didn't dip the edge.

Jim DeLaney
10-23-2003, 2:44 PM
Besides using a lipping planner (cool $1000 powertool) I would work it down with by favorite handplane, and if the grain isn't too weird, I would use a Stanley 386 jointer fence on a #5,#6, or #7 so that I didn't dip the edge.


A Stanley (or LN) 95, set for a very fine cut, would work quite well, too.

If usint the 4, 5, 6..., I'd put a piece of very this taps over the veneer, plane down to it, and then remove the tape and finish with a scraper - either a 12, 112, 80, or 81, or even a hand scraper.

Richard McComas
10-23-2003, 3:47 PM
Yes....I have ventured over to the world of hand tools. Since I am starting to like working with planes, chisels and such...I was wondering if there was something I could use to take solid wood edging down to a plywood veneer surface. If wood was sticking up about 1/16" above the top surface of a board that you were wrapping with another type of wood to form a "frame".....what would you use to get it down to the surface of it primary board?

Wow....I just re-read what I typed and "I" am even confused by what I wrote. :)

Maybe this will ask a little better: I have a board that is 3/4" thick that I have done some inlay work on. I want to wrap that board with another wood species to add "shazam" to the overall look. The wood I am using to wrap the inlayed board with is 7/8" thick. I usually leave things like this alone until AFTER the glue up so it can be sanded down to the thickness needed or desired. Is there a scraper or something that could be used. I tried using my block plane, but the exotic wood is too difficult to work with a standard block plane....unless I just don't have something setup correctly...and could be the case. Shoot, I don't know, I'm just trying to figure all this stuff out.

Any way, advise, pointers, new tool purchases are welcomed.

As Steve said the Lipping Planer is a great too. I have had the Lemello Cantex for something over a year now. It has earned the title as the most time saving tool I have. You can push the Lipping planer along as fast as a circular saw and get a real nice finish.

If you like speed and do much solid wood edge banding the lipping planer is the way to go.

Jim Becker
10-23-2003, 8:08 PM
I was faced with the same "problem" recently with the kitchen project and just used my L-N low-angle block plane to carefully get it "close" and a little sanding with a block to make it flush. This would be a pain for a production situation, but for my small shop, it did the job.

Terry Quiram
10-24-2003, 7:14 AM
Dennis

Take it to Bobby Hatfield's and shoot it through his 50" Woodmaster.

Terry

Dennis Peacock
10-24-2003, 12:47 PM
Dennis

Take it to Bobby Hatfield's and shoot it through his 50" Woodmaster.

Terry


Just send my your scrollsaw so I can get all this "right" the "first time"? :)

I guess I could but that is a good 2 hours or so...one way. I have "got" to get me a scrollsaw....even if it is a cheap one for now.