Killed my lathe motor-now what?

[Jerry Ingraham]

While trying my first outboard turning on my Griz lathe, I evidently ruined the motor. Admittedly, the blank was large and it repeatedly stalled the motor to the point where it won't turn anymore. This was foolish on my part :o and now I'm wondering if I should install a larger (more hp) motor if I can find one that will fit? I don't have the model # with me but it is the equivalent of the currently offered G1067Z, I believe. Any thoughts on the motor upgrade? I've still got my new Rikon, so the world continues to go around while I decide what to do;) .

[Frank Fusco]

How old is your lathe? Less than one year and Grizzly will replace the motor. I have the 1067Z and admit that it is underpowered for your type of project. Replacing the motor with something different could be problematic due to the design. Suggest you look for a local company that can rebuild your motor if it is out of warranty.

[Richard Madison]

Jerry,
Do you mean that the motor shaft is mechanically locked, or that the motor simply won't start when turned on? If the latter, does it have a start/run capacitor? If so, check same before getting new motor (unless it is still under warranty of course).

[Travis White]

You dirty murderer! Killing your lathe!

[Jerry Ingraham]

I've had it about 5-6 years, so no warranty. The motor started, I ran it through the various speeds unloaded and it seemed ok, but then I touched the motor :eek: youch, hot! I went ahead and put the blank on and it started to come up to speed then slowly died:( .

[Jim Underwood]

It might yet be the capacitor.

I've fried one on a friends Jet Mini, and the motor was pretty darn hot, but the motor still came back after I replaced the capacitor. (While I had it down, I replaced his bearings for him also.)

If you know how to take the motor apart it might be worth a look inside. If it's turned all black and stinky inside, then prolly it's a boat anchor.:(

But if not, it might just need a capacitor. Sometimes these motors have a centrifugal switch inside them and it goes bad, killing the capacitor. If you just replace the capacitor, it'll just fry again. You'd have to replace the switch too. Without looking at it myself, I couldn't tell you anymore...

[Jeff Myers]

Symptoms sound very much like i just ran into recently on my Jet mini.
Working that thing like crazy, then it just spun down slowly and stopped.
Was REAL hot, let it cool off a bit and tried to start it later and it
would start spinning pretty good but didn't have any torque(i could use
my hand to stop it dead real easy...had a buffing wheel on i was grabbing:) ) and if i didn't do anything when i started it back up, it would load up to speed and then after 10-15 seconds would quickly slow back down to a crawl and eventually stop turning.
Turned out to be the start/run capacitor. Jet's technician on the phone
thought it was probably the motor too, but i asked for them to just send
the capicator first to try and that's what it was,,,been working fine since.
Something you should definately try first,,difference between $17 and $175.
Hope it's as simple a fix for you too!!

[Jim Underwood]

Just for the record, the small 1/2 hp motors on the Jet don't have the switch, and they just use a start/run capacitor.

The motors that use a centrifugal switch usually just have a run capacitor, which only get used when the switch kicks it on. Or they have a start capacitor that stays on til the switch kicks it off. (I think that's correct....) In any case when the switch fails the capacitor can't handle the extra duty and fails also.

Some motor tech or electrician could tell you more persactly... I'm just a hack....:)

[Jerry Ingraham]

Jeff,
You described EXACTLY what mine has done. I think I'll check into it. What do I need to get the proper start/run capacitor? I'm assuming Grizzly doesn't sell them, (though I'll check there first) and I'll have to source it locally. Should I just carry in the whole motor?

[Corey Hallagan]

Don't most lathes get pretty darn hot regardless? I know many people post here that at least there lathes get pretty darn hot. Mine does I know but works flawlessly.

Corey

[Jim Young]

It's a sign from above for you to buy a new lathe.:)

[Jim Underwood]

I'm sure that if you find the Grizzly model number that they have a parts breakdown, and you can order one directly from them. Do a search at Grizzly online, and I bet you can find the parts manual...

I mean, heck, even Harbor Freight does that much...:rolleyes:

[Jeff Myers]

Corey, my Jet mini does get pretty warm when turning normally but it never gets so hot i can't rest my hand on it for a bit, when that capacitor
went out and i felt the motor,,,it just about took skin off it was so hot.
after the new capacitor, it's back to getting quite warm but not blistering hot.
Jerry, I know absolutely NOTHING about electrics so i ordered straight from Jet rather than from an electric motor house locally. This problem has
come up before in several different postings and there was a very knowledgeable person talking about the jet motor and it's capacitor being of a type different than most,,,it was a start/run capacitor vs. a start or
run on it's own???? I don't know the difference so i ordered the exact replacement from Jet and i bet you could do the same from Grizzly by calling their service dept. In the other posts, everyone said you'd know
if the capacitor was shot because when you pulled it from it's case, it would be burnt looking and have a burnt smell,,,,mine was spotless, had
no odor and no obvious signs that it had gone bad,,,that's why the Jet technician was certain it was the motor and not the capacitor but it
turned out to be just the capacitor so don't go by it's looks, certainly
the cheapest thing to try first and will only cost a few bucks to find out
Although it will add to your down time to "test" a new capacitor if in deed
the motor is the culprit and you do have to order a motor later....but
what the heck,,,gives you more time to clean your shop, spend with the family,,,etc. :rolleyes:

[Bill Boehme]

Just for the record, the small 1/2 hp motors on the Jet don't have the switch, and they just use a start/run capacitor.

Actually, from the number of capacitor failures on the Jet, I believe that they cheaped out and just used a start capacitor. I have recommended to a number of other turners on this and other forums that instead of getting a rreplacement capacitor from Jet, that they get an oil-filled run capacitor instead. If you get the type that is designed for HVAC blower motors, they range in price from about $7 to about $18 if you have an account at Grainger. They are also somewhat larger in size -- somewhat like an oversized Prince Albert can so they won't fit into the space where the old capacitor was mounted. But, that is actually good news because you don't want to have your capacitor sitting on a hot motor and cooking itself anyway. Attach it to the underside of the lathe bed (onto one of the legs at the headstock end).

Bill

[Bill Simpson]

The capacitor should have a number on it and it should be available from Grainger. Much less price also. remember these things are built with shelf parts. Often the markup on these parts will make you sick. I reciently blew one on another device and the manufacturer wanted $22 plus shipping, I got my Electrician son to get me one at Grainger (using his company account) and paid $6 for the same thing. If it isn'r burnt or exploded , you should be able to lift some numbers from it. Take it to Grainger to compair.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

I don't work for or connected to grainger but I do know they have about everything Electrical.

[Bill Boehme]

The capacitor should have a number on it and it should be available from Grainger.

The two numbers that you need are the rated voltage and the capacitance. The rated voltage on the replacement can be higher than what you currently have -- it is the maximum peak voltage that it is safe to operate at. The capacitance should be matched as closely as possible. A typical value would be around 7 microfarads. Normally an abbreviation is used for microfarads -- examples are MFD, MF, and UF. The U is actually supposed to be the Greek letter "mu", but sometimes you will see the letter U and sometimes a "mu".

Bill

[Jerry Ingraham]

Grizzly tech service recommends the capacitor and for $5.00 + s/h, it's worth a try. I've ordered them and I'll let you know what the result is when they get here. Thanks for your input, if not for all of you I might have just ordered a new lathe.:eek: Hey! Wait a minute......