spiral cutterhead-Worth the $$?

[Jake Helmboldt]

Is the spiral cutterhead on the Grizzly 586 jointer worth the extra money? Even at reduced cost on a local deal it will be more than a comparable 3 or 4 blade standard cutterhead jointer.

Is the benefit worth it or is it negated by the finishing that is required regardless.

Also, I can get this one for about what I would pay for the parallelogram jointer. Prices being equal, which would you spend your money on; spiral cutterhead or parallelogram adjustment?

Jake

[JayStPeter]

Prices being equal, which would you spend your money on; spiral cutterhead or parallelogram adjustment?

Jake

I chose spiral cutterhead and am happy

[Walt Caza]

Hi Jake,
They are not mutually exclusive. I chose parallelogram now (DJ20),
and will probably add true helix Byrd Shelix head in time.
I am surprised it seems rarely mentioned, but I like the 4 corner adjustment
by eccentric bearings, over shimming dovetailed ways for table set-up.

Also, there may be a bit of confusion in the marketing of these heads.
Both shear the wood at a low angle (think l.a. block plane)
If the square carbide inserts meet the wood straight on, even though they
are mounted in a spiral around a cylinder, my understanding is that would not be true helix config. In true helix, the cutting edges meet the wood
at an angle. (and at a low angle of attack)

As an afterthought, I will throw in that if you were to knick (think knots)
inserts vs knives, you can replace just the affected inserts.
(clean those seats to preserve cutting height)

Helix heads are quieter, feel different when feeding (wood in constant contact with cutters), and shine for highly figured grain.
I saw David Eisan facejoint birdseye maple with helix, without tear-out !
(you can search for his post about helix here at SMC)

Good luck with your tool shopping,
Walt

ps maybe a helix user will share their hands-on experience with
the finish they produce ...
:)

[Walt Caza]

Hi Jake,
They are not mutually exclusive. I chose parallelogram now (DJ20),
and will probably add true helix Byrd Shelix head in time.
I am surprised it seems rarely mentioned, but I like the 4 corner adjustment
by eccentric bearings, over shimming dovetailed ways for table set-up.

Also, there may be a bit of confusion in the marketing of these heads.
Both shear the wood at a low angle (think l.a. block plane)
If the square carbide inserts meet the wood straight on, even though they
are mounted in a spiral around a cylinder, my understanding is that would not be true helix config. In true helix, the cutting edges meet the wood
at an angle. (and at a low angle of attack)

As an afterthought, I will throw in that if you were to knick (think knots)
inserts vs knives, you can replace just the affected inserts.
(clean those seats to preserve cutting height)

Helix heads are quieter, feel different when feeding (wood in constant contact with cutters), and shine for highly figured grain.
I saw David Eisan facejoint birdseye maple with helix, without tear-out !
(you can search for his post about helix here at SMC)

Good luck with your tool shopping,
Walt

ps maybe a helix user will share their hands-on experience with
the finish they produce ...
:)

[Erik C. Hammarlund]

where are you?
If you're in or near boston, before i'd spend $1000 on the Grizz I'd look at this (http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/222291776.html):

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Walt is dead on about the distinctions between a true sprial and a cutterhead with inserts that looks like a sprial.
I prefer straight blades because they work great and are cleaner cutting in most figured wood.

The sprials are quiter and easier on the bearings.

Parallelogram adjustment is a definite advantage.

[Mike Weaver]

I prefer straight blades because they work great and are cleaner cutting in most figured wood.


I have to respectfully disagree - the Byrd shelix head excels at clean cutting figured wood by all accounts when compared to straight blades.

As always though, YMMV,
-Mike

[larry merlau]

i dont have one but saw one in process they took birdseye maple ran it one way showed us the finish,great no tear out. and then he took it and ran the oppiste way and same great finish ..wow do that on knives and it wont end up the same.

[Walt Caza]

Hello again Jake,
Larry is correct about grain reversal, less tear-out from helix's shearing
cut. Sure, an experienced eye can read grain and choose a feed direction,
but what about boards where the grain turns-around ?

My understanding of high speed steel vs carbide inserts boils down to...
the keener edge of HSS gives glass smooth finish on straight grained wood, but not for as long...
while carbide may not take as sharp an edge, but will last longer and take
more abuse (silica!)

One feature often touted on a parallelogram jointer, is that the tables move in an arc around the head, keeping a consistent table to blade gap.
The benefit of this is dubious at best, due to the normal shallow cuts.
Gap would increase as cut depth approaches hogging, but do we use the
jointer this way?
(sidebar...the Delta DJ20 has replaceable table lips !!)

I have not rabbeted on the jointer, but another quirk is that rabbeting
is not allowed with helix head. Does anyone do this ?

Another great jointer controversy is table adjustment by knobs vs levers.
There are boosters of both.

Last thought as I ramble,
helix head produces different chips than straight blades, which would
facilitate dust collection and less stringy clogging.
(my biscuit jointer was clogged with a big Mahogany string birdnest)

I definitely overshopped jointers :) ,
Walt

ps still hoping to hear about surface finish from a helix user.
(ex: works fine for edge glue-ups for panels straight from jointer clean-up?)

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I have an older jointer with levers. I rarely adjust the beds. But when I do, it's difficult to make the small adjustments.
-Jeff :)