View Full Version : Gold fill on walnut

Bob Reda
10-24-2006, 6:03 PM
I have been asked to carve a company logo on some boxes made of walnut. They would like the logo to be gold filled. I've searched the archives and most of gold fill is mentioned with marble or granite. What would be a good product to gold fill on walnut?

Thanks for the info in advance.


Frank Corker
10-24-2006, 7:01 PM
Hi Bob, you should look at the articles on masking the work off prior to engraving and the fill would probably be paint from a spray can or brushed in, there are a few posts regarding that. I have difficulty communicating because sometimes people refer to brand names on products that we don't get here. Different types of masking film which are placed across the engraved area (that just gets vaporised) The principle is the same as the granite stuff. Once you have engraved the masked off area, brush in gold paint or spray it. When the masking is peeled off the result can be fantastic.

Bob Tate
10-24-2006, 7:06 PM
I was replying in reference to engraving. I just re-read your post and you said Carve. If you are fairly good with a small brush (for the sizing) the Gold Leaf stuff at Hobby Lobby is not too expensive.

I mask, engrave thru the mask, and spray. I use a spray available at Home Depot, Lowes, just about everywhere, but I have forgotten the name. It is the shiniest gold I have ever seen. I do 6 or 8 a month and have been using this stuff for about a year. The cap on the can looks like a gold chrome. I am at work right now but will look it up later and post the name. It is the only spray I have ever gotten a good shine on Walnut.

Tom Cole
10-24-2006, 7:50 PM
I use krylon brushed or gloss gold on 1/8" laserwood for nameplates to go on paintings. I spray the entire piece and then raster engrave through the paint and into the wood. I then vector cut the nameplates out. Cleanup by spraying a paper towel with pledge and wiping the residue off the plate. Krylon sticks to the laserwood very well, although if you rub REALLY hard you can rub through it. Another plus is that it dries in about 15 minutes.

Bob Reda
10-24-2006, 8:44 PM
My carving is V carving with a shop bot. I guess I was seeing the names of products and thought they were a special product for this type of operation. I've masked off areas to engrave and then painted, however with a vcarve it often lifts the mask off, especially the smaller areas. I usually start with a coat of zinser shellac, sand lightly, mask and go to town, but usually the mask doesn't hold up too good. Usually end up sanding after it dries. Others have used multiple layers of masking to help prevent this, I really odn't know how that works. Once again, thanks for the info.


Joe Pelonio
10-24-2006, 8:55 PM
Might be easier to do it like we do sandblasted signs when the stencil lifts. Do the carving, paint the lettering by hand or spray, let dry well. Then sand the whole thing to get rid of the overspray or misguided brush marks, vacuum or air blow well, and then roll the finish on the background with short nap foam roller. If you do get a little drip here and there in the letters, touch up as needed.

Mary Helvey
10-24-2006, 9:43 PM
What do you use to mask the wood?


Mitchell Andrus
10-24-2006, 11:49 PM
I've done gold filling as follows: mask, raster (engrave), spray gold paint, overfill with clear epoxy, remove mask, sand and polish, apply clear finish on entire piece. Quite effective.


Mike Shauer
10-25-2006, 12:39 AM
Bob, I use Krylon 18kt gold plate in the spray can. It is the bright-es gold colour I could find. Comes in a 227g can I think from walmart. Expensive compared to regular gold paint. I like everyone else raster with a resist then paint. I then spray with clear lacquer to seal the wood first so as not to bleed also you must pull the resist before the paint is completely dry or it tends to pull out of the engraving. Cheers, Mike