thick/thin fast/slow finishes

[Frank Fusco]

I'm taking a statement by Andy Hoyt from the turners forum and starting question/discussion here rather than stray from the point of the turning thread.
Andy said in part: "....my assessment of wipe on poly is that it's a product designed to help the impatient. It dries quickly because it's been thinned down significantly...."
Now, I have long understood exactly the opposite. At a demonstration for Myland's products, it was explained that the better/expensive finishes dry fast because they have a high concentration of solids and low percentage of solvents. To me, that makes sense. Less stuff to evaporate, less time it takes to evaporate.
OTOH, the years almost up and it's time for me to make, at least, one misteak for the year. :rolleyes:
What say the jury?

[Dennis Peacock]

Every poly I've ever tried dries to the touch in about 2 - 4 hours (depending on shop temp, humidity, sun is up or down, world is spinning in the right direction and such as that) and yes, even my gel-poly. If you want a FAST drying finish? It needs to be shellac or lacquer. You can speed up the drying process of poly by thinning with Naptha, but then you're still having to wait the preverbial 24 hour wait time for total dry. Just my 2¢ on the topic.

[Frank Fusco]

I should have added that the Myland's products dry in seconds.

[Steve Schoene]

Myland's products are mostly shellac, with very fast evaporating alcohol as solvent. They aren't unique--all shellac dries quickly.

[Jason Roehl]

There are several variables included in a finish's drying time. Type of solvent, solids to solvent ratio, film thickness, air and surface temp and humidity. Alcohol is certainly one of the quicker evaporating solvents, so shellac dries quickly. However, if you get the shellac (or many other finishes) on too thick, the surface can dry and seal over some wet finish that will take a long time to dry and cure. On the other end of the spectrum, you could probably thin an oil-based poly with a light machine oil, but then it would take a very long time to dry.

The longer a finish is wet, the better it can self-level (or run, drip and sag). It will also collect more particulates out of the air.

[Kyle Robinson]

I'm taking a statement by Andy Hoyt from the turners forum and starting question/discussion here rather than stray from the point of the turning thread.
Andy said in part: "....my assessment of wipe on poly is that it's a product designed to help the impatient. It dries quickly because it's been thinned down significantly...."My assessment of wipe-on poly is that it's a great way to apply a durable finish without getting drips & sags or brush marks. It's easy to apply a smooth finish that just needs a final buffing with #0000 steel wool dipped in wax to get a semi-gloss finish. I figure I'm saving hours that I used to spend with wet/dry sandpaper flattening the finish to remove flaws that went in when I brushed on poly. Maybe it's just my technique with the brush and others can get a great finish with it, but for me finishing has become much more enjoyable and consumes a lot less effort since I started wiping on a poly finish.