Shop Painting

[Chris Jenkins]

As each day goes by I get a little bit more excited about getting into the new shop, espeically when the builder calls and moves UP the closing date!

So I'm thinking if I can get in a bit early, then maybe I'll just pull the trigger and paint the floor and walls before the machines ever come out of storage.

I know I am epoxying the floor as I did before in the old shop, but as far as painting the walls go, I'm on the fence.

Last time I used Drylok, but this time i am thinking of just using plain old block filler. It's half the price and does almost the same job right? I know it doesn't waterproof like drylok, but live next to a farm field, how much water can really be coming my way, afterall I have a burm and a whole bunch of land right next store soaking up water.

OR! Should I just skip the block filler on the poured walls and just spray a quick coat of primer and shoot semi gloss white all over the place? I planned on putting the semi-gloss on top of the drylok anyways. Or is this cutting too many corners?

Thanks,

Chris

[Jason Roehl]

Chris, Sherwin-Williams makes a product that is block-filler and semi-gloss paint all in one. I don't recall the name of it off-hand, though. You don't need Drylok on above-grade block walls--that's partially what the hollow portions are for--to drain away excess water. Drylok is for below-grade applications where there is some hydrostatic pressure you're trying to hold back.

Holler if you have any more questions. Personally, I wouldn't be inclined to put in semi-gloss paint in a shop--too much glare, not enough light diffusion. An eggshell or satin finish would be better without letting too much dust stick to it.

[Chuck Hanger]

the semi gloss. Although my shop is OSB on the ceiling and walls, the semi gloss (2 coats after Killz) cleans back to new with a household duster. Just run over it about once a month. Dust does not stick to it near as easy as my old flat paint.
Just my experience,
Chuck

[Jim Bell]

Sherwinnn Williams has a product called Meta-latex. It is water based and comes in gloss or flat. You can mix the two to make whatever sheen you like. It was originally designed for water towers. I live in Florida and it wears like iron. It is self priming and can be tinted to whatever color you like. It is an industrial product but available to anyone. The price is very reasonable as well.
Jim

[Brad Noble]

Chris, I had a chance to use full sheets of 1/2" melamine on all the inside walls and ceiling in my little shop. I was concerned about it being "too" glossey as in light glare, shining reflections and the like but now after having it up for a few months I have come to like it a lot. It certainly makes lighting an easier task to say nothing of being able to hang anything on the wall anywhere. I'd vote for gloss white. Good luck whatever you choose.

Brad

[Chris Jenkins]

Thanks for the input guys. I hope to hear some more opinions.

Jason - My shop is below grade (basement shop) hence the use for the Drylok. Which is also why I use semi-gloss and high output light fixtures as natrual light is very minimal. Do you know the name of the 2-in-1 product?

At this point I am thinking of just spraying semi gloss on the walls as I do not expect to fill the pourous concrete to any type of a smooth finish. Chances are in a few years I will go the OSB route after some more settling has taken place and I know it is safe to cover the exposed walls. In fact the more I think about it, I'll prolly Dust down the walls, spray primer to start and then finish up with a few coats of semi. I don't see what the block filler is really going to do for me the more I think about (especially if I am going to cover it up in a few years)

[Jason Roehl]

Found it after a little digging at the Sherwin site:
ProMar® Interior Exterior Semi-Gloss Fill and Finish White

Product Number
B25W00035

The reason for using a block fill is that it is cheaper. Unsealed block will suck up your finish paint at a high rate. Block fill is designed to put a lot on using low-cost solids so that you use much less topcoat (every block fill I've used has been VERY easy to topcoat). The product above shortcuts the process a little (it may still take 2 coats, I don't recall if I've used it or not).

[Chris Jenkins]

Jason,

Thanks for the info. This sounds like a good product for me to go with on raw concrete. Now to find out the specs on this and see if I can push it through my airless sprayer. (Not sure if I have a big enough needle for something like this with high solids in it)

[Jason Roehl]

Chris, unless you spent about $2500 retail for your sprayer, don't do it--it will eat your airless sprayer for lunch. A 9" or 18" roller with a 1-1/4" nap really isn't too bad, just look at it as a little bit of exercise. Figure on roughly 100-150 s.f. per gallon for coverage.