Yates American, info. please

[Dale Gregory]

I'm new to turning and have only taken a few classes. I'm gearing up to buy my 1st lathe and was set on a Rikon Mini, Jet Mini, or a HFxxx06. Then I see this ad in the local paper for a Yates American, late 60's or early 70's model, 3/4hp single phase, 8-speed, 12x39 with outboard spindle on the left side. My question is do I go with this big lathe (think high school type lathe, weighing approx. 700 lbs.) or stick with a new mini? I eventually want to turn bowls and the Yates would handle that job better I'm guessing due to the heavy weight. He's wants $550 for it verses $220-279 for the Mini's. Is the Yates priced too high (no tools, chucks, etc., maybe live centers only)? Any lookouts? Which way would you guys go?

[Don Orr]

...can be a real beast. Yates-American was a good name back in the day. You are right about the mass for turning bowls. If you go to look at it, make sure every thing is loose that should be loose, and what should be tight is tight. Check that the bearings are in good shape. Not super critical because they should be easy to replace. Some rust is not deadly either since it can be cleaned up. Depending on condition, I think it seems a little pricey. Make a reasonable offer and see what happens.

Also check out the Old Wood Working Machinery website; www.owwm.com (http://www.owwm.com) for more info. A serial or model number would be helpful there.

Good luck and post a photo if you get it.

[Wilbur Pan]

You should stick with the mini lathe and then pass on the information on the Yates American to me so I can take it off the seller's hands. ;)

Seriously, If you're interested in bowls, I'd go for the larger machine. I'm in the same situation as you -- trying to choose between a mini lathe and a larger machine. With a mini lathe you won't be able to turn objects much larger than 9 1/2" in diameter. I know that most most mini lathes have a 10" swing, but the practical maximum size is about 9 1/2".

I am interested in large bowl turning, so I'm holding out for something bigger. In the meantime, I'm still waiting for a Yates lathe to be sold for about $500 in my neck of the woods.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dale I would definately go for the Yates. Check it out and if all seems good go for it. As Don said check the bearings and surfaces.

If you don't buy it I would definately look at the Rikon Mini. It will turn a 12" bowl. I just got mine and turned a bowl 11 7/8". Turned a platter yesterday that was right on 12".

[Dale Gregory]

Dale I would definately go for the Yates. Check it out and if all seems good go for it. As Don said check the bearings and surfaces.

If you don't buy it I would definately look at the Rikon Mini. It will turn a 12" bowl. I just got mine and turned a bowl 11 7/8". Turned a platter yesterday that was right on 12".

I was going to buy the Rikon last week but our store can't keep them in stock, so I'm on a waiting list with no obligation. How deep (height) do you think the Rikon is capable of turning if you are pushing 10+ inch diameters? Did you round up the bowl before putting it on the lathe or did you start with a square block? Thanks for the feedback.

Dale

[Bernie Weishapl]

Yes I did round up the stock before mounting. It measured roughly 11 7/8" across and was right at 5" deep. So far that is the biggest I have did. Maybe Don Baer will chime in. When I measured it I was figuring on having to cut a little off but didn't need to. Don Baer of this forum cut one I think he said was 12 1/4" after cutting it round. Yep check out Don Baer's post "A Full 12". He said between the blank and the lathe bed he could still get a quarter thru. If you cut the stock round before putting it on the lathe it makes it more balanced and the lathe doesn't bounce around. I buy alot of my stock already cut round but if it comes in square I use my bandsaw with a template to cut it round. Kinda like Mike Mahoney does in his video From the Tree to The Table.

[Dale Gregory]

Yes I did round up the stock before mounting. It measured roughly 11 7/8" across and was right at 5" deep. So far that is the biggest I have did. Maybe Don Baer will chime in. When I measured it I was figuring on having to cut a little off but didn't need to. Don Baer of this forum cut one I think he said was 12 1/4" after cutting it round. Yep check out Don Baer's post "A Full 12". He said between the blank and the lathe bed he could still get a quarter thru. If you cut the stock round before putting it on the lathe it makes it more balanced and the lathe doesn't bounce around. I buy alot of my stock already cut round but if it comes in square I use my bandsaw with a template to cut it round. Kinda like Mike Mahoney does in his video From the Tree to The Table.

Bernie, thanks for the info. I think 12" will do me for several years, until my skill level deems better equipment. The Rikon is looking better all the time.

Dale

[Curt Fuller]

Dale the nice thing about the old American made lathes is the mass of steel and iron in them. There's usally no need for ballast like the way a lot of folks sandbag their lathe stands. But the drawbacks are the speed range and the capacity. They usually have something like 600-700 minimum speed which can be changed with a EVS conversion but it's pretty expensive. And the 12" capacity isn't any bigger than a Jet mini when it comes to turning bowls. I turn on an old Oliver that is about the same size of the Yates American you're considering. When I go to a club meeting and turn on a Jet mini it feels like a toy. The Jet gets the job done and is a good lathe but all the things like the tool rests and moving the tailstock feel like a toy compared to the Oliver. I love my Oliver but I wouldn't mind having a Jet mini too for when I'm just turning a pen of finial or other things small.

[Robert Mickley]

I have a YA Lathe, with a little work you can set it up for outboard turning. I could turn 24 inches on mine before I removed it from the homemade stand in the interest of gaining space.

I'm currently working out a plan for riser blocks. I also converted mine to DC power the variable speed is great.

[Dale Gregory]

Wow, now that's a lot of wood turnings on the floor!:) Thanks for the input. Can you tell me what the spindle size and thread is for the Yates Am.? My main concern with the Yates is that the size and mass of this piece will force me to put it in my Pole Barn, where moisture becomes an enemy of all tools. Also, that makes Winter use difficult if not impossible in my part of the Country. I'd love to have the Yates, but I'm now leaning toward the Rikon, which I have space in my heated basement to work.

Dale

[Robert Mickley]

Actually at 12X36 its not that bad. If its the same as mine it disassembles into pieces one person can handle. the heaviest being the head.

The spindle is 1X8. The only issue I had with it was the threads where so long my chuck would not seat against the shoulder. Which resulted in it not always running true. Origionaly I just cut them off shorter with the grinder and a cutoff wheel. Solved the problem. Later on during the rebuild I had a friend turn me a whole new shaft out of 4140.

I've hung some seroius chunks of wood off of that thing with no problems