Uni finally ready for cutting and.......Dang.......

[Mark Rios]

First off, thanks to everyone for your help and answers to my questions that I had while getting this thing up and running.

I finally got it put together, (very) fine tuned and ready to go. I put a blade on it....OH I'm so excited....... and looked for the insert.?.?.? Where is it????

I don't have one!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: The old owner never gave me one. I don't remember ever seeing one. So now I have to order a factory insert so I have a template to make more.

I do have a question for you Uni owners though....How does the insert attach/stay in? In the insert hole in the table there are four tabs, two on each side, and that's all. I assume these are tabs for the adjusting screws in the insert (I won't know until I get one :D ). There is no tab with a threaded hole for a hold down screw.

When it came time for me to adjust/align the fence to the miter slot I found that the original owner had never adjusted the fence. The paint had never been broken around the adjusting screws. :eek:

Another Biese (and Biese clone) question....I got the fence aligned with just a tad of toe out. While sliding the dial indicator back and forth along the fence I saw that the indicator varied in and out within a 5 thousandth range. Is this okay? Is this normal or do I need to order another face for the fence?

I ran my 220 the other day so I hooked up my new saw and fired it up. Ummmmmmm........veeeerrrrryyyy niiicceee.........Now I know (a tiny bit anyway) what all of you have known for a long time; A real cabinet saw is a joy to use. I can't wait to run some wood through it.

Thanks again to all.

[Corey Hallagan]

Mark, I don't have a cabinet saw but I use inserts that I made from 1/4 inch mdf and plywood. You want to make it to where it is fairly tight but not so tight that you can't get it out. Drill a 3/4 or 1 inch hole in it with a forstener bit for a finger hole. I just put mine to the disc sander and snuck up on the fit until it set in to place with a pop of the hand on top and pulled up with a jerk without getting stuck. If it isn't flush, I just use card stock to make little shims to set on the little tabs. Works just fine.

It sounds to me like the face of the fence is wavy if I understand what you are saying. That isn't a great situation, you want that as flat as it can be for a safe rip. I would look at replacing it if I could. Just my opinion. Congrats on the saw!

corey

[Sam Chambers]

...So now I have to order a factory insert so I have a template to make more.

How does the insert attach/stay in? In the insert hole in the table there are four tabs, two on each side, and that's all. I assume these are tabs for the adjusting screws in the insert (I won't know until I get one :D ). There is no tab with a threaded hole for a hold down screw.

Mark, you don't need to order a factory insert. Either buy an aftermarket one made out of plastic, or make one from scratch. I use 1/2" MDF for mine, because it's cheap. I have several for different dado widths. Drill countersunk holes that line up with the four tabs, and thread some 1/2" screws from the top, so you can level the insert with the saw table. (Some folks use allen screws, but I just use wood screws.) At the front edge, drill a hole large enough for your finger to fit in, so you can pull the insert out. A little paste wax helps the stock slide easier and reduces wear.

If your Unisaw is like mine, you won't be able to cut the blade slot using the standard 10" blade. You'll need something of a smaller diameter, like one of the outside blades from your dado set, or a circular saw blade the same width as your TS blade.

No, you're not imagining things. There's not a hold down screw, but there is a pin at the back of the insert that serves an important safety function. It keeps the back of the insert from riding up on the blade, causing kickback. I use part of a nail glued into a pilot hole.

[Dennis Peacock]

Mark,

I use 1/2" plywood for all my inserts and I used the factory insert for my template. So far, it's worked out really well for me. When I need a new one? I just make it or grab one out of the stack I've cut from the last "insert cut run" and start using the saw again.

[Hoa Dinh]

Mark,

I sent you a PM.

- Hoa

[Bill Boehme]

What holds the insert in are two things:

There is a roll pin at the back of the insert (about 1/4" long) that sticks into a mating recess in the table.
The insert fits tightly -- you probably can't cut one to fit snugly enough without being difficult to remove so the way that it is done is to put a couple flathead screws into the left side of the insert and one at the front end. Screw them in all the way -- see how much slop is in the insert -- back the screws out a bit, try it again, etc. until the fit is satisfactory.You also need four leveling screws, That is what the tabs are there for. Get 4 set screws and drill four holes in the insert so that they will be over the four tabs. The size of the holes should be such that the the screws fit very tightly. The length of the screws depends on the thickness of your insert. If the insert is 1/2" thick, then use 1/2" set screws. Turn each screw in until the insert is flush with the table at that corner of the insert and repeat the process at each of the set screws. You will need to go back and do each screw several times because each screw also effects the others somewhat. When finished, make certain that the insert does not rock -- if it does, figure out which screw is short and adjust it down just a tiny bit.

One other suggestion is that it is slightly advantageous to adjust the front end of the insert so that it is just a hair below the table surface and make it a hair above the table at the back end. If you don't, you may find that the wood that you are cutting hangs on the insert at the front or on the table opening at the back.

Bill

[Brad Townsend]

If it's a left tilt, don't call the factory. Notify me and I'll send you one for the cost of the shipping, though I doubt you would want it. I have two I'm not using. One came with the saw, the other was sent to me by Delta to replace the first one. They are both the cast metal with identical 1/16" dip from the edge to center.:rolleyes:

Make your own, or buy a good aftermarket phenolic one.