Block Plane recommendation

[Scott D Johnson]

I am mainly a "Normite" type/hobbyist woodworker.
Have the usual assortment of power tools (stationary/handheld) to sqaure up my stock, create joints, etc. from Delta, Jet, Dewalt
Currently use the "scary sharp plate glass method for sharpening my Marples chisels.

Am considering a one of the following 3 hand planes for cleanup work, etc:
Lee Valley Low Angle block plane $119
Lie Nielsen 140 Skew Block Plane $175
Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 Low Angle adustable mouth block plane $150.00

Would appreciate any recommendations.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Scott,

I would select either the LV or the LN 60 1/2, whichever you like the looks of or want to afford. Both are excellent planes.

Unless you have need for the 140, removable side, fence and being able to deepen a rabbet, I would skip it.

Take care, Mike

[Mark Rios]

I know very little about the 140 but from what I understand it's a little more of a specialty plane as opposed to an everyday user. Again, this is coming from a neander newbie (and that's being generous).

I love the LN 60 1/2. It feels sexy to hold but that's probably subjective. :D It works very nice right out of the box but I suspect that after a little fettling and some use it will wear into an extension of the users hand.

The LV is 1/8" longer (6 3/8" over the LN 6 1/4") and is 5/8" wider, at 2". I've read owners saying that it's a little heavier than the LN. However, it has some apparently unique features that are making me (:D) buy it/try it here in a couple weeks. These include two blade guide screws to prevent blade shifting and a funky combined blade advance and lateral adjust that looks quite intriguing.


Incidentally, you can get the LN for $135 delivered at Fine tool Journal's website. http://www.finetoolj.com/LN/home.html


Now some REAL neanders can give you some REAL advice on the planes you list. :D :D :D

hth

[Jim Becker]

I have the LN low-angle adjustable mouth block plane and love it...that's noteworthy as I'm not really much of a Neander when it comes to woodworking. Lot's of "tails" in use in my shop. But that little plane got me more interested in other sizes and formats. It's both a functional part of every project and a stepping stone to my using hand planes more often than I ever thought I would.

[Al Navas]

Have you looked at an old Stanley 60-1/2? It can be had for maybe 1/10th of any of the ones you listed.


Al

[Matt Meiser]

I have the LN low angle rabbet block plane. Once I got it, I never used my regular low angle block. For a regular block, I have an old Craftsman that works as good as the LN.

[Mike Henderson]

You can find the LN planes a bit less expensive here (http://www.finetoolj.com/ln/blockplanes.html) with free shipping, if you decide to go that way. The LV block plane is excellent, also. Try to get your hands on each and see which on fits your hand best.

The LN plane is a bit smaller and fits my hand better than the LV plane, but that's just my experience.

Mike

[David Marcus Brown]

I'll throw my card in the hat and say that I recommend the LN 9-1/2 for most clean up work. For tight spaces, I use a LN 102.

My question regarding low angle is because everyone seems to prefer low angle block planes. My LN 102 is low angle and my LV apron plane is low angle but my regular sized block plane, a LN 9-1/2, is not. If I need to plane end grain I grab my LV low angle smoother, LV apron or my LN 102 but when I'm doing cleanup work, the 9-1/2 gives a finish that rivals a well set up smoothing plane. The steeper bed angle and rock solid construction combined with the ability to set a tight mouth makes this an outstanding little plane.

In all fairness, the low angle 60-1/2 looks sleeker and more attractive somehow and I actually purchased the 9-1/2 by mistake because it was in a 60-1/2 box. I keep trying to justify a 60-1/2 but I just can't rationalize it. No matter how thin a shaving I take w/ my low angle block planes they just don't leave a finish like that 9-1/2.

just my http://www.sitepoint.com/forums/images/smilies/smiles2/twocents.gif

PS this was purely a curiousity question regarding low angles, not debating their merit.

[David Marcus Brown]

I agree, The 140 isn't a good choice for a general duty block plane. The only time mine sees use is trimming tenon cheeks or cutting cross grain rabbets.

A Record 044 is great for long grain rabbets but the lack of a nicker kills its cross grain versatility. I have to use the 140 here or clean up after the 044 with a 60-1/2R. If I had a router plane I'd handsaw the shoulder and finish up with the router. Then again, I could use the handsaw and finish w/ the 044. Decisions, decisions . . . ;)

I'm glad that LN made the nicker standard on the 140. Without it, it's really relegated to use a tenon cheek trimmer.

[JayStPeter]

I have the LV and the LN 60 1/2R (rabbeting version). They both work great. I think the LV is a little easier to adjust after a blade sharpening. That makes it my choice for a first plane.

[Eddie Darby]

I own both the Lee Valley low angle block plane, and the Lie-Nielsen low angle adjustable mouth block plane. The biggest difference between the two has to be, for me, the width of the blade. LV- 1 5/8" and LN 1 3/8".

I find that the smaller blade plane fits in my hand nicely, and is better at those small jobs that a block plane does so well at , such as chamfering edges, where a wide blade isn't a requirement.

I have what is called a cadet sized hand, which is short fingers on a wide palm. In short, I would make a rotten pick-pocket!:D I do not like the feel of the LV "standard" block plane, since it does not fit my hand. I would put a standard angle blade in their low angle plane, rather than get this hard to hold plane. I am sure that others with a regular sized hand, may not need to do this, and would actually prefer the extra size.

So why do I own a LV low angle plane? I do at times need the extra width, and a toothed blade, and that is where the LV excells. I also like the multiple blades available for this plane.

[Doug Shepard]

I'll throw my card in the hat and say that I recommend the LN 9-1/2 for most clean up work. For tight spaces, I use a LN 102.

My question regarding low angle is because everyone seems to prefer low angle block planes. My LN 102 is low angle and my LV apron plane is low angle but my regular sized block plane, a LN 9-1/2, is not. If I need to plane end grain I grab my LV low angle smoother, LV apron or my LN 102 but when I'm doing cleanup work, the 9-1/2 gives a finish that rivals a well set up smoothing plane. The steeper bed angle and rock solid construction combined with the ability to set a tight mouth makes this an outstanding little plane.

In all fairness, the low angle 60-1/2 looks sleeker and more attractive somehow and I actually purchased the 9-1/2 by mistake because it was in a 60-1/2 box. I keep trying to justify a 60-1/2 but I just can't rationalize it. No matter how thin a shaving I take w/ my low angle block planes they just don't leave a finish like that 9-1/2.

just my http://www.sitepoint.com/forums/images/smilies/smiles2/twocents.gif

PS this was purely a curiousity question regarding low angles, not debating their merit.

I've got both LN's 60-1/2 & 9-1/2 and would tend to agree with you. However, I still find for the majority of uses I grab the LA. Not because it leaves a better finish - just because it feels better in the hand. For most stuff I do, the difference just doesn't seem all that important. I tend to search out the 9-1/2 when I know the wood is particularly hard or something figured. On that stuff there's a big difference and it seems worth a little hand discomfort to go for the 9-1/2. I planed some thin ebony last summer and was using the LA and it was cutting well. I reminded myself that I also had the 9-1/2 and maybe I should see how that worked. Took a while for the stupid grin to go away. A couple of passes and it looked like a piece of obsidian. The finish was that good.

[Frank Bessette]

Greetings Scott,

I have limited experience with LV but everything I know is good. I do prefer the LN planes. I have a Bronze 102 that I keep at hand and use most of all. I have a 9 1/2 and 60 1/2 R as well. I like them both and find them very comfortable to use. The adjustable mouth and LA, if required, would lead me to the 60 1/2.

With any of these planes you can't go wrong.

Best...

Frank

[Richard Niemiec]

I dunno, I think Al has got it right. It seems that everyone gets all balled up with LN and LV high priced planes, and frankly, there are so many old stanleys and, indeed, sargents and the like out there that I have to wonder if some folks are more into spending big dollars for pretty planes for ego purposes. Don't get me wrong, I own a LN rabbet block plane simply because it works for me, but the balance of my planes are old stanleys, with a bit of fettling, and they work just fine. For the weekend warrior type guy, I have to wonder why one would spend hundreds. My 2 cents. rn

[Mike Wenzloff]

I dunno, I think Al has got it right. It seems that everyone gets all balled up with LN and LV high priced planes, and frankly, there are so many old stanleys and, indeed, sargents and the like out there that I have to wonder if some folks are more into spending big dollars for pretty planes for ego purposes. Don't get me wrong, I own a LN rabbet block plane simply because it works for me, but the balance of my planes are old stanleys, with a bit of fettling, and they work just fine. For the weekend warrior type guy, I have to wonder why one would spend hundreds. My 2 cents. rn
I dunno, sounds like a mixed message to me.

That LN rabbet block plane is based upon a Sargent. An original is shall we say, rather spendy. So that at least makes it a good buy.

A LN or LV low angle smoother or LA jack. Know what good shape vintage ones run? Makes those company's offerings a decent purchase, too. Especially if one factors in that their's are unlikely to break, a common problem on the original LA planes.

But it's OK should you believe "it works" for you, therefore it is not "spending big dollars for pretty planes for ego purposes." Why doesn't that apply to this situation? Or does it? If so, why make such a judgemental call?

btw? As a weekend warrior, what kind of other tools sit in your/mine/their shop? See? We all draw a line somewhere, how to spend *our* money. Does it really matter whether that decision will be for vintage, or new?

Take care, Mike

[Dan Larson]

Scott,

One nice feature of the LV low-angle block to consider is the ability to outfit it with a ball tail & knob.
49000
Combined with a 38 or 50 degree bevel on the blade, and you've got yourself a small smoother.

I've used both the LN and the LV low-angle blocks extensively, and I like both of them equally but for different reasons... you can't go wrong with either!

Dan

[Richard Niemiec]

Mike, I hear ya. But I'm reacting to the circumstances of the original post, e.g., someone who is a self-characterized Normite hobbyist who wants some block planes for "cleanup" of joints, etc. We're not talking about a neander who dimensions his/her stock by hand and is dealing with wild grain or figured wood; there I agree that spending serious money for a low angle smoother, jack, etc. would make sense because such a person would be looking for performance in such situations, and although not an expert, something tells me there simply aren't a lot of "vintage" planes like this out there, I'm pretty sure Stanley didn't make any. That being said, I agree with you about discretionary spending. America's a great country - we are all free to spend our money to pursue happiness - I guess that accounts for why some folks buy a Cadillac EXT for $60k so they can say they drive a pickup, and I drive a 2WD Tundra. Different strokes.....

BTW, I didn't know the LN rabbet block plane was derived from a sargent original design, and I agree there are not likely many of them in circulation. The reason I bought it is that it does double duty, at least for me, as a shoulder plane.

[Tony Zaffuto]

With regards to Dan Larson's endorsement of the LV low angle block, I would go a step further and purchase the chamfering attachment. I had LV make up one of their planes for me last year without the circular indentations (hated the looks!) and bought it with the ball & tail, along with the chamfering attachment. Works beautifully! I can plane a better looking chamfer far quicker than most can set up an electric router, plus the planed chamfer does not have the burns or other router marks. since I bought the plane, that is all it does.

Now, I'm a bit of a block plane junkie (actually all types of hand tools) and have: 3 Stanley 60-1/2, 1 LN 60-1/2, 1 LN 60-1/2R, 2 Stanley 65, 3 Stanley 9-1/2, LN 102, plus at least another half dozen or so that don't come to mind.

What I use most everyday is 75 year old + Stanley 60-1/2 (w/Hock blade)and the LN 102. The LV is used only for chamfers. If I were on a tight budget, buying used, I would go for a Stanley 60-1/2 (USA model, painted black) and eventually upgrade the blade. If I were buying new, it would be the LN 102.

[James Owen]

I am mainly a "Normite" type/hobbyist woodworker.
Have the usual assortment of power tools (stationary/handheld) to sqaure up my stock, create joints, etc. from Delta, Jet, Dewalt
Currently use the "scary sharp plate glass method for sharpening my Marples chisels.

Am considering a one of the following 3 hand planes for cleanup work, etc:
Lee Valley Low Angle block plane $119
Lie Nielsen 140 Skew Block Plane $175
Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 Low Angle adustable mouth block plane $150.00

Would appreciate any recommendations.

Scott,

Of the three you list, I'd recommend the LN #60-1/2; it is an excellent plane (the others are, too!).

A couple of folks have mentioned using the LN #9-1/2 -- also a very fine plane -- for joinery trimming/final fitting. I can't say that I disagree with the basic idea, although, I find that better results are forthcoming using a standard angle plane when used on a shooting board. I regularly use a LN #5-1/2, an old Union #6, and a couple of other bench planes to trim end grain on my shooting board; works like a charm. The "secret" here is to have a SHARP iron; it's sharp enough when it will peel shavings off of pine end grain.....

Good luck and have fun selecting your new plane: you can't go wrong with any of them.

James

[Aled Dafis]

I agree with most of the above posts that the 3 planes are all excellent planes.

My preference would be the LN 60 1/2 as it feels so damned good in the hand - I tried both the LV and LN, and the LN just felt like it grew there.

David mentioned that the 9 1/2 gives a better surface fininsh, so why not buy a second blade for the 60 1/2 and hone it at a higher angle for smoothing - that's why so many of us have bought into the LV Bevel Up range (the use of "us" in that last sentence was a stealth gloat by the way;)). That way you will have the comfort benefits of the low angle plane combined with the smoothing performance of the 9 1/2 i.e the best of both worlds and a very handsome plane to boot.

Regards
Aled

[Ian Smith]

I have done what Aled suggests.

I have a LN 60-1/2 for which I have 2 blades, one with a 25 degree bevel and one with a 40 degree bevel. With the 40 degree bevel blade installed, the plane functions as a small smoother.