rewiring motor to 220 from 110 plus other ?

[John Piwaron]

I just got a new General TS today. Hooray! The plaque on the motor sez it's a 110 or 220 motor. I'm thinking about that. It'd be nice to turn it into 220, but I'm not sure how I'll go about it.

Here's what I mean - it's got a 110 plug right now. The plug goes to the General switch, then through a tight fit grommet in the sheet metal of the base, then to the motor.

So I'm wondering how to handle this. Do I cut off the 110 plug and attach a new plug for 220 (if such a thing is available) or so I get a new cord to plug in? If so, then what about the switch? New one of those too? And then of course the wiring at the motor.

OR

Run a new 20amp 110 line over the saw and be done with it. That's definitely got it's own advantages.

Comments? Advise?

[Steve Schoene]

Unless your electical circuits are under sized, the change to 220 won't affect the operating performance of the saw.

The motor would be rewire according to the diagram which is usually found inside the box where the wire enters on the motor. You can either replace the entire cord, or just replace the plug. Any big box or electrical supply place will have the proper plug and outlets. (At the big box you will have to read the labels, at the electrical supply place they will know exactly what you need, if they deign to speak to you. You won't need the big dryer outlet. You want a basic 20 amp 220 outlet with matching plug.

[Hoa Dinh]

Check the switch is dual-pole single-throw: it has 2 input lines and 2 output lines, and when the switch in OFF position, BOTH output lines are disconnected from the input lines. If it is, you can use it for 240V hookup.

In that case, cut off the 120V plug and in its place wire a 240V plug.

If the switch is single-pole, you need to replace it with a dual-pole.

The motor should have a plate showing how to wire it to 120V and to 240V.

[scott spencer]

When I rewired my GI 50-185, I kept the switch, rewired the motor to 220v, and just replaced the plug. It's very simple.

[Steve Roxberg]

When I rewired my GI 50-185, I kept the switch, rewired the motor to 220v, and just replaced the plug. It's very simple.

Scott, was the standard switch for the saw a double pole? My Delta came with a double throw, it the existing switch isn't a double pole I would recommend changing it. I'm assuming it is, but I'd check.

[Joe Mioux]

I have the same saw Scott had.

When I had electricians adding a sub panel to my garage, I told them to change the saw from 110 to 220 while they were there.

All they did was rewire motor and put a 20 amp 220 plug on it.

The switch remained.

Joe

[Jake Helmboldt]

If you can twist a wire nut and use a screwdriver you can do this.

Open the cover on the motor and it should have the diagram where you simply swap the wires/nuts to switch to 220. Then get a plug and matching receptacle and cut off the 110 3-prong and replace it.

Of course you want to make sure you have the appropriate wiring for the 220 outlet. I won't get into that as I'm not qualified to dispense those particulars.

There is a gain potentially depending upon your wiring. I have limited 110 in my garage currently but I had a 220 line already. Plus, the garage is off the panel in the house (for now) and there was considerable voltage drop on the 110. Switching to 220 has given me a better performing saw.

Jake

[Rob Russell]

If the switch is single-pole, you need to replace it with a dual-pole.



Hoa,

Sorry, but that's not true. A single pole switch will work just fine to start/stop the saw.

What it won't do is disconnect both hot legs from the motor, so you couldn't turn the saw off and safely go into the connection box on the motor. Of course, if you're working on the saw's motor connections and the saw is still plugged in, there's a bigger problem ... :cool:

Rob

[Rick Christopherson]

Rob is correct and I was about to say the same thing. Because the switch is part of the tool, it is not necessary to break both lines to the motor. A single-pole switch will be fine.

However, I am doubting the logic behind making this change in the first place. This is a classic example where making the change is of no value.

If you rewire the saw, you need to install a new 240 volt circuit. But as long as you are running the new wire, you may as well make it a properly sized 20-amp, 120-volt circuit and be done with it all. This would be a different case if you already had the 240-volt outlet sitting there.

[Alan DuBoff]

Sorry, but that's not true. A single pole switch will work just fine to start/stop the saw.

What it won't do is disconnect both hot legs from the motor, so you couldn't turn the saw off and safely go into the connection box on the motor. Of course, if you're working on the saw's motor connections and the saw is still plugged in, there's a bigger problem ... :cool: Yes, and to be more specific you would have one hot going to the machine and if there was a ground problem and you completed the ground when you touched the machine, that could present a slight "awakening" effect on the operator I believe.:eek:

[Mike Henderson]

While a single pole switch will interrupt one side of a 220V line and turn off the motor, I would strongly recommend that you put in a two pole switch and break both sides of the line if you convert it to 220V. Several people have noted that you shouldn't be working on the motor with the unit plugged in, but think into the future. Someone else may purchase this saw from you and think that the switch breaks the line (completly turns off the power). They may forget to unplug the saw and work on the motor while sitting or lying on a damp concrete floor. If the 220V circuit doesn't have a GFCI, and they contact the hot leg, they could easily be killed.

If you wire the saw for 220V, make sure both legs are interrupted. It'd be tough to live with the knowledge that someone died from your decision to save a few $. It'd be tougher to live with the knowledge that you killed yourself if you did the same thing (worked on the motor and forgot to upplug it :-)

Mike

[Rick Christopherson]

Pardon my sarcasm, but if you are servicing the electrical aspects of the tool while it is plugged in, then you deserve to get a bit of a shock! The power switch on the tool is not a lockout that is qualified for servicing the electrical system of the tool. This would be a case of "thinning the herd", and well deserved at that. You should not be servicing a tool simply because you THINK you have the power switch turned off! That is exactly the reason why it is not required.

Breaking one line is sufficient to mechanically service the tool with NO DIFFERENCE to 120 volt systems!!!!! So if you think it is OK to do this at 120-volts, then it is equally OK to do it at 240-volts. If you don't think you should be doing this at 240-volts, then you should not be doing it at 120-volts either!!!!!!!!!!! (The Neutral wire is STILL a current carrying conductor.)

While a single pole switch will interrupt one side of a 220V line and turn off the motor, I would strongly recommend that you put in a two pole switch and break both sides of the line if you convert it to 220V. Several people have noted that you shouldn't be working on the motor with the unit plugged in, but think into the future. Someone else may purchase this saw from you and think that the switch breaks the line (completly turns off the power). They may forget to unplug the saw and work on the motor while sitting or lying on a damp concrete floor. If the 220V circuit doesn't have a GFCI, and they contact the hot leg, they could easily be killed.

If you wire the saw for 220V, make sure both legs are interrupted. It'd be tough to live with the knowledge that someone died from your decision to save a few $. It'd be tougher to live with the knowledge that you killed yourself if you did the same thing (worked on the motor and forgot to upplug it :-)

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

Pardon my sarcasim, but if you are servicing the tool while it is plugged in, then you deserve to get a bit of a shock! The power switch on the tool is not a lockout that is qualified for servicing the electrical system of the tool. This would be a case of "thinning the herd", and well deserved at that. You should not be servicing a tool simply because you THINK you have the power switch turned off! That is exactly the reason why it is not required.

Breaking one line is sufficient to mechanically service the tool with NO DIFFERENCE to 120 volt systems!!!!! So if you think it is OK to do this at 120-volts, then it is equally OK to do it at 240-volts. If you don't think you should be doing this at 240-volts, then you should not be doing it at 240-volts either!!!!!!!!!!!

I think we both agree. I probalby fall on the side of overprotection. I put GFCI on all my tools to protect me from mistakes.

I absolutely agree with you and the others who have posted here - unplug ANY tool before you work on it. But I go further and say: 1. Break both sides of a 220V circuit, and 2. Put GFCI on all your tools. People make mistakes. Forgetting to unplug your tool should not be a capital offense.

Mike

[John Piwaron]

Thanks for the advise.

First, it sounds like it should be a "simple" job in that I'd only have to rewire according to the diagram inside the motor enclosure. That much I get. No problem. Heck, I've run a couple 110 circuits over to my shop area. Easy stuff.

But I recognize the switch as a problem. Does it disconnect both hot legs? I don't know. I'd have to check into that further. For safety's sake, I think I'd like that. Plus, I'm TOTALLY aware of unplugging the tool to work on it electrically. FWIW, I think this is one thing I liked about my Craftsman saw more than this General - the motor could be unplugged from the switch electrically disconnecting it. Without bending over anything or reaching around.

Anyway, I have both options to work with. That is, I have a 220 line available because of my jointer. I could tap into that pretty easy. Of course it would be just as easy to run a dedicated 110v 20amp outlet over to the saw.

It's kind of a fielder's choice. Right now I feel that running a new 110v 20amp line is what I'm going to do. It's the path of least resistance (pun intended) We'll see what happens when I'm at the big box store picking my supplies.