Tools and Technique questions

[Robert Trotter]

I want to make a hall table sometime in the future. It looks something like this:-

48663

The legs are tapered and rather thin. I was thinking of something like 1.5" square tapering down to be rather narrow at the base. And for the aprons I was wanting to make an open frame like apron from 3/4" or 1" square (or close to) stock. Solid timber top (jointed)

I was wanting it to be rather dark in final color so I was thinking of wenge or walnut. What are some nice timbers that finish nice and dark to black in colour. (British spelling there:D )

I will be doing everything by hand.



Dimensioning by hand:-

I haven't dimensioned any hardwood by hand from rough stock so your help would be greatly appreciated.

When buying rough lumber what is a good rule for the thickness to buy compared to the final dimension? Ex 1/3 over final thickness or does the wood type itself change anything. Your wisdom please...
For the narrow pieces I would need, should I rip close to final dimension and plane down to final thickness or will wood stresses cause a lot of twist in narrow pieces. So would it be better to rip rather thick and then plane down on all sides to reduce warping and twist? Your wisdom please...Planing:-

I would like to have a planed finish with minimal sanding if I can.
For finish planing on the narrow members for the apron frame and for the tapered legs what planes should I use and how?

I will be getting an LA jack and LA jointer and a smoother and the LN LA adjustable mouth block plane.

The smoother will be either a LN#4, LN LA smoother, LV LA smoother or a LV BU smoother. As you can tell I am still trying to decide on a smoother but leaing toward an LA plane as being more versitile. And your help on how to go about making my hall table will probably help me to decide.


What is the best process for preparing my stock and dimensioning all of the pieces?

Thanks for any help,

Robert

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Robert,

Wenge is a pita to work with handplanes, doable, but not a nice wood to use in that regard. So my vote goes to Black Walnut. If you want it blacker, I would use a dark gel stain on it or an analine dye. Walnut is an extremely nice wood to work by hand as well.

For something like this table, I would select timber specifically to make the legs, aprons, drawers and top. I would buy nice fairly straight-grain 8/4 stock for the legs. A piece 4" wide and 36" to 48" in length.

I would also select a piece of fairly straight-grained wood for the apron in 4/4 thickness. This is because sawing the pieces up for the ladder construction will be easier and without grain-runout it will be less a distraction--aside from being easier to work with pieces that size.

And for the top I would get 5/4 stock. That way by the time it is flat, you will be able to end up with a full 1" thick.

All this minimizes processing for your design.

If you end up making drawers, I would consider Poplar or even QS Pine for the drawer[s] themselves. Using a lighter colored wood for the drawer sides/backs makes for seeing in the drawer much easier.

Take care, Mike

[Ken Bryant]

Read somebody like Anthony Guidice for the best sequence of actions. The things I have found, after slow and painful learning by mistake, are these:

(1) Watch twist like a hawk. Other bowing or cupping is easy to fix; twist is insidious. Never ignore the winding sticks stage. Fix twist before anything else.

(2) With twist, or any other wood movement, EXPECT THERE TO BE NEW MOVEMENT AFTER YOU TAKE OFF ANY SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF WOOD. If you start with a three-inch-wide piece of 4/4 maple stock, and rip and plane it to a 3/4" thick 2" wide stile for a frame-and-panel door, by the time you've got the rails cut and are ready to fit joints, there's good odds the stiles will already have some twist (or bow, or cup): the tensions in the original piece of wood will no longer be in the same balance they were before you did the dimensioning, and everything will move to accomodate the uneven release of tension. Frustrating. Two things make it tolerable: (a) make it an iterative process -- that is, take off, oh, half what you're going to need to take off, do the same for the rails, and then come back and quickly trim all pieces to final dimension just before you cut the joints, then assemble the dratted things before they move again! Once they're assembled, the joints between the different pieces will again stabilize the situation considerably: stiles can no long get away with twisting when they're pinned down by the long grain of the rails, and vice versa.
(3) Cut and fit joints immediately after dimensioning. Don't do the dimensioning one day, cut joints on the second day, work on something else for the third, fourth, and fifth, fit the joints on the sixth, and expect to be able to rest on the seventh day. Works for God; doesn't work for me.

Dimensions: depends totally on how twisted, bowed, and cupped your stock is. The general rule, of course, is just what the standard dimensioned lumber would lead you to expect: a dimensioned 2X board is really 1.5 -- i.e., it's reasonable to expect to lose about a quarter of the thickness to dimensioning. But I bought a 16/4 maple board, 10" wide and 12' long. When laid flat on the floor, one corner stood an inch and a quarter above the floor, it was so twisted! I bought the board on the basis that I was going to use one twelve foot piece, and the best I would get out of it after straightening was 11/4 -- therefore the price came down. In fact, by finding a project that only needed three-foot lengths, with that 5/4 twist spread over twelve feet, I actually got four pieces of 15/4 stock out of it. You just have to figure out, for the board and for the project, what you'll have to take off to end up with a piece of usable shape and size.

Tools: either a scrub plane (what I use, from LN) or a cambered larger (fore) plane (what Chris Schwarz recommends) to take off the big stuff to establish a flat, untwisted side; a jack plane ( I use an LN LA) to smooth out the gouges from the fore plane; a jointer (or jack plane for shorter stock) to establish a reference edge at right angles to your first smooth face; then whatever seems most sensible (marking with a gauge, probably) to make a second parallel surface and a second parallel edge; and finally cut for length. Then take the last few thousandths off everything with a smoother (LN 4.5 for me, except for end grain, where I use either an LN LA jack or a block plane, depending on how big the board is).

Sorry. That's a long posting. Everybody will have a different sequence; this one works for me, with the tools I've got.

[Robert Trotter]

OK...I'd better ask this now. I have been guessing a lot up till now but I should find out for sure. I am a metric man. Sounds like a song, doesn't it.:D I'm from OZ...You know, Australia. They stopped inches and all that the year I started school.


I thought 5/4 meant 1 and 1/4 inches wide but could someone explain the size terminology you all use.

Ex.


straight-grain 8/4 stock for the legs. A piece 4" wide and 36" to 48" in length.


What does this mean? so it is 4" wide , what is the 8/4 bit?


4/4 maple stock is what?


But I bought a 16/4 maple board, 10" wide and 12' long.
is what? It's 10" wide so what is the 16/4 mean I was thinking it was equal to 4 if my math is right but maybe it doesn't:eek:


I actually got four pieces of 15/4 stock out of it.

is What?

Anyway I think you get the idea. A simple explanation will help me to understand what ya all r tawking about.

[Mike Wenzloff]

The X/4 is the thickness, measured in 1/4" as in your example, 5/4 = 1 1/4"

So, for the 8/4 = 50.8 mm in thickness
4/4 = 25.4 mm in thickness

I'll let you do all of Ken's <g>...

Take care, Mike

[Ken Bryant]

Don't know about Australia, but here in Canada (and yeah, I think in our southern auxiliary the States), we have very different measuring systems for "rough lumber" and "dimensioned lumber". For "rough lumber", width and length of boards are given in "real" -- not fudged -- feet and inches. Thicknesses are given in "quarters" of an inch -- i.e., 8/4 lumber is two inches thick, with minor variations permissible. Dimensioned (finished) lumber is measured quite differently for thickness and width. So a "2x4", while "nominally" two inches by four inches, is "really" 1.5" by 3.5". That is, it started its post-log life as a piece of 8/4 lumber, 4" wide -- but then lost half an inch in each dimension in the process of becoming a moderately straight board.

So quarters apply ONLY to thickness, and are (more or less) accurate measurement -- but make no promises about the straightness of the board. "2X" or "4X" measures apply to both thickness and width BEFORE FINISHING, but such boards are "really" half an inch (or more) smaller in both dimensions.

[Robert Trotter]

OK... Thanks for the info. I seem to have been almost there and now I have it.

I'm an educated man now.

Do I get a Diploma?:D

[Derek Cohen]

I would like to have a planed finish with minimal sanding if I can.
For finish planing on the narrow members for the apron frame and for the tapered legs what planes should I use and how?


Hi Robert

I made a table similar to the one you plan to do, but in Blackbutt and Jarrah.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Table2.jpg


Blackbutt is, as you know, a @#*&!! to plane without tearout. I used it to test the flexibility of the LV BU Jointer. Go to http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/LVBevelUpJointer/index.asp

The advantage of the LV BUJ on the tapered legs was that I could use a high cutting angle (62 degrees) and open/close the mouth in seconds to remove stock quickly or smooth large areas.

I would lean towards the LV BU Smoother.

Hope that gives you some answers.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ken Bryant]

This is to certify that Robert Trotter, Esq.

has on this 17 day of October, 2006

earned the degree Doctor of Philosophical Lumber Dimensioning

from the Oakheart Faculty College of Sawmill Creek University.

[Ken Bryant]

You guys down there may use funny numbers, but you have some BEAUTIFUL woods we almost never get to see.

[Robert Trotter]

OK good info on wood. I'll start looking around for some wood. I believe I have to buy it, bring it home, and store it to equalise / equalize the moisture content.

How long does this typically take?
I will have to get a moisture metre...More money:eek:
Are they expensive or is cheap one OK?


OK with say black walnut, the final finish strokes with the plane on the smaller apron frame members just prior to assembly should be done with what plane? The smoother? or since they are small the block plane? If smoother, would the LVBUsmoother be to much for the smaller pieces?

Would it be more for the top and maybe the legs?

So would I really be better with a smaller smoother like the LV LA smoother or the LN smoother?

AND

Connecting the top to the frame would it better using dowels or something like a mortice (floating mortice , is that the term?) or just screw through the bottom of the top rail of the apron frame into the top.

There would need to be sloted hole or mortices on one side (probably the back side) for screws or dowels etc to allow for movement in to top, is that right?

Robert

[Ken Bryant]

Assuming the wood starts out kiln-dry, it shouldn't take more than a few weeks to catch up with wherever your shop's at, humidity-wise. (Longer if thicker - 16/4 wood, for example, might take a year! :-) ) Moisture meter probably not all that important unless you're impatient, or unless you're drying your own.

Use the plane that feels like it fits right. Don't worry about a rule. If it seems too big and clumsy for the piece, get a smaller one.

[Eddie Darby]

I will be getting an LA jack and LA jointer and a smoother and the LN LA adjustable mouth block plane.

The smoother will be either a LN#4, LN LA smoother, LV LA smoother or a LV BU smoother. As you can tell I am still trying to decide on a smoother but leaing toward an LA plane as being more versitile. And your help on how to go about making my hall table will probably help me to decide.


I own the Lie-Nielsen low angle, bevel up, smoother, and the Lie-Nielsen #4 1/2 bench plane. Both great planes. I run a camber on the blade in the #4 1/2, so that the actual cut is closer to the #4 with no camber. I use the low angle smoothing plane for tough wild grained woods that require a steeper angle of attack, and for any end-grain situations, such as butchers blocks.

I have the York attachment for my #4 1/2 bench plane, but just haven't used it yet! I know, shame shame! I will someday...I hope! :rolleyes:

Since you seem to be into the low angle mode, I would stick to this approach.

[Derek Cohen]

The smoother? or since they are small the block plane? If smoother, would the LVBUsmoother be to much for the smaller pieces?

Would it be more for the top and maybe the legs?

So would I really be better with a smaller smoother like the LV LA smoother or the LN smoother?

Robert

The size of the smoother is not really related to the size of the work. The blade width of the BUS is only 1/4" wider than the LAS.

It is a personal thing - what you feel comfortable with. I was a convert to heavy planes only recently. I still enjoy small, lighter planes. They have a greater sense of immediacy or "feel". What they lack is authority, which the BUS has (and what I expect the LN Bronze #4 1/2 to have, or the Marcou smoother has in spades!). Don't ignore the LV LAS. While it is lighter, it is more versatile (it can also be used as a fine plane for the shooting board).

You really should go out and try the BUS against the LAS. That is the only way you will satisfy your concern. For your interest, I built the above table with only a jointer and a spokeshave (for planes) as a dare to myself.

If you decide you prefer the LAS, I would consider making a new tote. In my opinion, unless you have a high bench, it will benefit from a slightly lower tote angle. Here is mine:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Newtoteandknob2.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Zaffuto]

Derek,

Are the legs on your table tapered on all four sides and all they tapered full length? Nice looking job!

Tony Z.

[Robert Trotter]

This is to certify that Robert Trotter, Esq.

has on this 17 day of October, 2006

earned the degree Doctor of Philosophical Lumber Dimensioning

from the Oakheart Faculty College of Sawmill Creek University.


Thank you Professor Bryant.
or "Ta" if you were from down under.

I truly hope to live up the great expectations of.... OOOPS

Started getting carried away there.:eek:


Nice table Derek.
Actually I had read your review a while ago while trying to find out about the different planes and it only just dorned on me that it was you.:D And are those little antique pill cases on the top? My mother had some similar looking things. She loved antiques.

How did you connect the top to the frame?
What size are your legs? Well not yours, the tables?;) About 40mm at the top? Down to 25 or 30 at the bottom? Tapered on the 2 inside faces only? I did my chair like that, starting the taper just below the mortice for the frame.

How wide is the top? And do you think you could have gotten the legs a bit narrower/thinner and still be stable and have strength? (not to criticise your great work - just I was thinking of little thinner for mine to give it a very light and airy feel if you know what I mean - sort of modern Japanese meets Europe)


Also Derek, what are the dimensions of your bench? And if your had to dimension your stock by hand would you think your front vices would get in the way? I am thinking of a leg vice like on the Roubo bench or a Veritas twin screw vice on the front for my new bench. Basically like a really big workmate as that is what I have been using.:o

With the leg vice I would have no interferance along the bench but it would mean I would be working at the end of the bench a lot.
With the twin screw the handles might get in the way but as I have not used front vices since I was at high school I would not really know.
Comment anyone?


You really should go out and try the BUS against the LAS. That is the only way you will satisfy your concern.

Yeah, I know but I have to import them into Japan and I have heard that LV says you can just send your plane back if you don't like it, but the shipping to and from Japan would be the cost of new plane.:eek: So Maybe I will go for the BU smoother and then if I find it too heavy or cumbersome I will just have to save up and beg the LOML for one more toy. Or I may try making a smoother with some Japanese blades and see how it goes.?????????

Hi Eddie,
I like the looks of the LN LA smoother better than the LV LA smoother (but I like the looks of the LV LA jack and jointer - am I crazy? I suppose they look similar but there is just something....) And the LV LA smoother is a different blade to the other LV BU planes so it would not matter if I went for the LN. I think the appeal of being able to slightly adjust the depth on the fly with the LN might be tipping the scales.

Maybe I will just have to flip a coin to decide LV BU smoother or LN LA smoother.

Huaaaaaaaaaaaa.........

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Tony

Thanks for the kind words. The legs taper from about an inch below the lower stretcher. They are tapered on the two inner sides and flat on the outer two sides.

Ken

Here is a bit of Jarrah just for you - three hand jointed ex-salvage floorboards make the tabletop.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/image080.jpg

Robert

I will have to get back to you with the dimensions, etc.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

.. are those little antique pill cases on the top? My mother had some similar looking things. She loved antiques.

They are the work of my wife. She likes to collect bits and pieces of old silver.


How did you connect the top to the frame?
What size are your legs? Well not yours, the tables? About 40mm at the top? Down to 25 or 30 at the bottom? Tapered on the 2 inside faces only? I did my chair like that, starting the taper just below the mortice for the frame.

The legs are 40mm at the top and taper down to 27mm. They are tapered on the two inside faces. The top is connected to the upper stretchers with rabbeted blocks.

A picture of the legs being planed:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Planingthetaper2.jpg


How wide is the top? And do you think you could have gotten the legs a bit narrower/thinner and still be stable and have strength? (not to criticise your great work - just I was thinking of little thinner for mine to give it a very light and airy feel if you know what I mean - sort of modern Japanese meets Europe)

The top is 4'2" (1270mm) long and 1'1-3/4" (350mm) wide (excluding the end tapers). It is 3/4" (20mm) thick.

The legs were dimensioned by eye, that is I judged the thickness by trial and error. This just looked right. I was not particularly concerned about strength - this wood is as stong as steel! I also like the Japanese/Shaker minimalism.


Also Derek, what are the dimensions of your bench? And if your had to dimension your stock by hand would you think your front vices would get in the way? I am thinking of a leg vice like on the Roubo bench or a Veritas twin screw vice on the front for my new bench. Basically like a really big workmate as that is what I have been using.

My bench is 54" long by 26" wide (not including the 5 1/2" tool tray). It is 35" high.

It is not a big bench but large enough for my needs. Here I am levelling the table top:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Levelling.jpg

The twin vises do not get in the way. I tend to plane against an end stop. See below.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Benchstop.jpg

I add side support when hogging with a scrub plane;

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Workbench%20and%20Workshop/Clampingboards1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Trotter]

Thanks Derek for the info.

Another question about your bench set up. You are using a bench stop for planing. How much space would you say you need between the end of the bech and say a wall? For plane follow through etc.

I'm trying to sort out my space and what size bench I need and can fit into my future small space.

I was thinking of putting a dado near the end of my bench across the full width as a bench stop. and just put different height stops in to suit the work. But your set up is a nice idea I will think about.


The top is connected to the upper stretchers with rabbeted blocks.


Yeah, (slap in the head) I should have thought of that. Come to think of it I was looking at that exact same method in one of my few woodworking books just the other day.


And your wife's things look nice.

Robert.

[Mark Singer]

There are may techniques for hand planed finish...most start with planning each piece prior to glue up and protecting the excess glue. then re planing the surfaces to flush joints etc, Wenge can be planed ...the grain direction is very critical....only one way. Using a card scraper is better on wenge. It will tend to burnish the surface and many finishes work better with a slight "tooth" or texture to about 220 grit...finer oils will work of a scraped or polished surface.

[Robert Trotter]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the info about wenge etc.

I must say that I hadn't thought too much about finish yet as still planning. But I wa after a close to natural finish I suppose.

Actually it was your table that got me to thinking about wenge. Nice table. And I liked your solid looking coffee table I saw a picture of somewher but haven't been able to find it again. I was wondering how you connected the legs for that one.

Robert

[Derek Cohen]

Another question about your bench set up. You are using a bench stop for planing. How much space would you say you need between the end of the bech and say a wall? For plane follow through etc.

Robert

Based on a BU Jointer, which is 22" long, I would leave about this amount as a minimum beyond the bench. You will not need the full 22" since you stop the follow through before the plane leaves the board..................but what if you one day get a 30" jointer?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Trotter]

Mark,

Generally what kind of bevel angle with a plane is required for wenge?
The same for walnut?

With card scrapers is it easier or better to just use your hand or to use something like the Veritas card scraper holder? Until now I have used softwoods or Ulin and never needed a scraper.

Are there any special requirements for glue etc for wenge? or walnut?

Robert

[Robert Trotter]

Thanks Derek,

Actually this post has woken me up to how to post replies to individual response. Adding the reply to a certain branch in the tree. So I am learning somehitng new all the time.

But speaking of waking up...I have to wake up early tomorrow so I'd better get to bed.

Thanks for all the comments...keep them coming.

I will check them out tomorrow.

night.

Robert

[Mark Singer]

Robert,
Tightbond works just fine. The bedding angles are not that critical if the grain is consistent....You can only plane in one direction and the shavings are not long and flowing but short and broken. A steep angle and a bevel up smoother is good. The wood sands very well and I perfer scrapping and sanding to minimize tearout on wenge....walnut is a different story...it is a delight to work with! Planning is a joy and it makes all of us look like pros...you need to try on some scraps and see what you think...I love wenge but avoid planning as a finish option and have a lot of planes to chose from

[James Owen]

......I will be doing everything by hand.

Dimensioning by hand:-

I haven't dimensioned any hardwood by hand from rough stock so your help would be greatly appreciated.

When buying rough lumber what is a good rule for the thickness to buy compared to the final dimension? Ex 1/3 over final thickness or does the wood type itself change anything. Your wisdom please...
For the narrow pieces I would need, should I rip close to final dimension and plane down to final thickness or will wood stresses cause a lot of twist in narrow pieces. So would it be better to rip rather thick and then plane down on all sides to reduce warping and twist? Your wisdom please...Planing:-

I would like to have a planed finish with minimal sanding if I can.
For finish planing on the narrow members for the apron frame and for the tapered legs what planes should I use and how?

I will be getting an LA jack and LA jointer and a smoother and the LN LA adjustable mouth block plane.

The smoother will be either a LN#4, LN LA smoother, LV LA smoother or a LV BU smoother. As you can tell I am still trying to decide on a smoother but leaing toward an LA plane as being more versitile. And your help on how to go about making my hall table will probably help me to decide.


What is the best process for preparing my stock and dimensioning all of the pieces?

Thanks for any help,

Robert

Robert,

Perhaps the following will be of use to you in dimensioning your boards with hand planes:

Hand planing (rough) lumber to dimension is not hard:

Ideally, you need 5 planes: a scrub plane, a #5, a #7 or #8, a #4 or #4-1/2, and a low angle block plane, but you can get away with a #5 and a low angle block plane -- it's just a little harder. (Or you can use the wooden plane equivalents.)

You'll also need a good straight edge, an accurate try or combination square, a marking/panel gauge, and a pair of winding sticks (you can make these yourself). A card scraper (with holder, if desired) is also handy.

Select a board face for the reference face. Use a pair of winding sticks and a straight edge to determine the high and low spots. Mark the high spots and use the scrub plane to reduce them to the approximate level of the rest of the board. Check for twist with the winding sticks. Correct with the scrub, as necessary. By this time, you should have a roughly flat (length and width) board with no twist and with a lot of troughs in it. Use the #5 to remove the troughs from the scrub plane. (Planing diagonally or straight across the grain in both directions with the scrub plane and the #5 to remove the scrub troughs will significantly reduce tearout in most woods. Then follow up with the #5 by planing with the grain.) Once the troughs are mostly gone, use the #7 or #8 with the grain to plane the face flat. Once you get full length and full width shavings, you board is very, very close to FLAT. Check with the straight edge and winding sticks. Correct as necessary. Finish up with the smoothing plane (#4 or # 4-1/2). Use the scraper on gnarly grain that gives your smoother a hard time, but be careful not to scrape a dip into the wood. Part 1 of 6, complete.

Mark this face as your reference face. All other measurements of square, etc, will come from this face.

Select one long edge, and use the #5 to roughly flatten/smooth it, and then use the #7/#8 to make it straight and square to the reference face. Mark this edge as your reference edge. Part 2 of 6, complete.

Use the reference edge and the try/combination square to mark one of the short edges square. You can use the #5 to plane to rough plane it flat and square to both the reference face and edge -- if the short edge is 4 to 6 or more inches wide; if not, then start with the LA block plane. (Chamfering the edges down to your cutting line will reduce tear out on the corner edges; alternative methods are to clamp a sacrificial piece of wood to the edge and let it tear out instead of your board, or to plane in from each outside edge.) Use the LA block plane to clean it up. Mark the other short edge to the desired length (saw it to rough length, if necessary) and do the same thing to the other short edge. Parts 3 and 4 of 6, complete.

Use your combination square or a marking/panel gauge to mark the other (unplaned) long edge to the desired finished width. As you did for the reference long edge, use the #5 to roughly smooth it down almost to the cutting line, and then use the #7/#8 to make it straight and square to the reference face. Check for straight and square to the reference face and to the 2 short edges. All 4 edges should now be square to the reference face and square to each other. Part 5 of 6, complete.

Use your marking gauge, basing off the reference face, to mark the thickness of your board around all 4 edges. Flip the board over to the unplaned face and use the scrub plane to plane down almost to the marked reference lines (The bottoms of the troughs should be about 1/16 inch above the cutting line). Use the #5, and the #7 or #8, as before on the reference face to make this face flat and square. Finish up with the smooth plane and, as necessary, the scraper. Part 6 of 6, complete.

At this time, you should have a board with 2 flat, smooth, and parallel faces, 4 flat and square edges (long edges parallel to each other, as well as short edges parallel to each other, and all 4 edges square to the two faces and to each other), and of the required thickness, length, and width, ready for whatever needs to be done next.

The first board you do by hand will take what seems like an inordinately long time, but with just a little bit of practice, it becomes nearly as fast as -- and often faster than -- putting a board through a jointer, thickness planer, and sanding sequence.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

Keep your plane irons SHARP!! Stop planing and resharpen as necessary; this is MUCH faster than having to re-do a board because a dull plane iron caused massive tear-out!!

If you have only a couple of planes, open the mouth up for the initial rougher planing, and close the mouth for the finer, finish planing.

Let the plane do the work -- don't force it.

Try to remove a roughly equal amount of wood from each face; if you don't, the wood will sometimes cup or twist again -- due to internal stresses released by planing -- after you have spent all that time and effort making it flat.

Skewing the plane often helps reduce tear out and makes planing easier.

If you have one, a shooting board is very helpful for Steps 2, 3, 4, and 5.

Use eye protection when using the scrub plane, especially if you're pretty energetic about it.....

Expect to get a good upper body work out!

This is not the only sequence that it can be done in, but it works quite well.

Good luck, and have fun! There's nothing quite like the sense of accomplishment you get when you have taken a piece of rough lumber and turned it into a nicely finished, dimensioned, board using only hand-powered tools.

James

[Robert Trotter]

Thanks James for your great run through of dimensioning rough lumber by hand.

I am in the process of finalising choice of new planes and some blades.

A question about jointer or #7 equivalent: -
Am I right in thinking that for planing the face, a curved or slightly cambered blade is better for face planing (like a smoother) and a straight blade edge for actual edge jointing?

For face planing is there a real difference between a full camber across the blade width and a straight blade with just the edges rouded off or a camber on the outer edges only?

Wood:-

I have been check out some hardwood lumber here in japan for internet purchase (until I can find a place to buy from locally). There have been a few pieces walnut that I have seen that had some splitting in the wood. I mean large splitting. But you could get enough useful wood from it. BUT my question is if there is this large splits (I would guess from stresses in the wood:confused: ) then would this type of lumber be best avoided as any pieces such as narrow legs or aprons or styles etc. would probably twist and warp a lot. i.e. do splits in lumber slabs translate into probably internal stress problems with any wood cut from it?

Robert