Is this a great saw for the money????

[Jeff Monson]

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G1023S110

I dont have any grizzley tools, but have been really looking hard at this saw, I would prefer a 110 volt saw as I dont have 220 service in my workshop. I'd like my purchase to be under $1,000.

So my questions would be,

this is considered a cabinet quality saw correct?

Is this much of an upgrade from my delta contractors saw?

Is the shop fox fence as good or better than my standard delta fence?

Should I be considering a left tilt saw or looking harder at another saw?

[John Callahan]

I think you'd be disappointed in the saw. Not that it's not a good saw but if you look at the specs on Grizzly's website it says it has a 24 amp motor and the recommended breaker size is 30 amp. More than likely your shop is on a 15 or 20 amp circuit. The saw may run but chances are you'll be popping the breaker pretty often. I think running 220v to your shop and going with 3hp 220V G1023S would be a much better choice but unfortunately more expensive. "Is this much of an upgrade from my delta contractors saw?" Mostly yes and some no depending on which contactor's saw you have. The Grizz is a true cabinet saw and has a far beefier cabinet mounted trunion (if you cut many bevels you'll notice the difference) and far better dust collection. As for power if your contractor's saw is an imported one the Grizzly, if wired correctly, will have more power. Some of the US built contractor saws have 2hp when wired for 220. If your current saw has an extention table it may have more rip capacity- the Grizz is just 25" though it's not a big deal to buy the extension rail down the road.
"Is the shop fox fence as good or better than my standard delta fence?" -again it depends which contractor's saw and fence you have. If you have a Biesemeyer or Unifence I'd say no. If it's the old Jetlock or T2 fence I'd say yes. You'll have to do some electrical work (breaker, plug, outlet wire) to get the G1023S110 to run properly, why not run 220v and get the extra 1 hp.

[Eddie Darby]

I think you'd be disappointed in the saw...........You'll have to do some electrical work (breaker, plug, outlet wire) to get the G1023S110 to run properly, why not run 220v and get the extra 1 hp.

Look at the upgrade on a broader scale. Once you have some 220 Volt outlets around the shop, you can get other tools, such as a bandsaw, that use 220 Volts.

Having more power is never a problem in woodworking, and in the case of the table saw, it is actually has the benefit of reducing the chances of kick-back.

You know what they say, "Once you've tried 220, you'll never go back.":D

[scott spencer]

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G1023S110

I dont have any grizzley tools, but have been really looking hard at this saw, I would prefer a 110 volt saw as I dont have 220 service in my workshop. I'd like my purchase to be under $1,000. As John mentioned, this saw requires a 30a 110v circuit, or 220v....kind of a misnomer and possibly why it's on sale


So my questions would be,

this is considered a cabinet quality saw correct? It's got the same cabinet mounted trunnions as the other 1023s...just has a smaller motor, but "yes" it's a definitely a cabinet saw...

Is this much of an upgrade from my delta contractors saw? A matter of opinion, but I'd say yes...more mass, more robust construction, better DC, better fence, better drive system, smaller footprint....

Is the shop fox fence as good or better than my standard delta fence? Also a matter of opinion, but I'd say yes ...it's pretty similar to a commercial Biese

Should I be considering a left tilt saw or looking harder at another saw? possibly...if you can cover the electrical requirements...it'll be fine, if not, I'd look at one of the hybrids like a 22124, Griz G0478, GI 50-220. I switched from a tricked out GI 50-185 to the 22124 and consider it to be a significant upgrade,but it kind of depends on what that upgrade will cost...I got a great deal and have no regrets. Left or right tilt is a small concern in my view and is also a matter of opinion.....a good deal on a good saw is just that, whether it's left or right tilt.

http://www.epinions.com/content_184778395268

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Tilt:
There is lots of good info' for free just for the googling and you should read some of it. That said my position on Tilt is resolved with one simple responce: "Which side of the blade do you work on?" I am left handed and I like my miter fence on my left hand side (blade on my right). So I prefer to tilt to lean toward my right hand.


Grizzly (generally):
I like the way their equipment looks. I'd buy a General any day over a Griz. Powermatic is I think a better machine but some say that PM has been dropping the ball lately by nose diving for the bottom of the consumer barrel.

Compare to a Delta KO saw? Who knows. The cabinet will make DC easier. The drive train will likely produce less vibration.
Will it be more or less accurate? Who knows?
You used the expression " cabinet quality." I suspect that maybe you misunderstand the term. The term "Cabinet Saw" does not refer to "cabinet making" as in the trade rather it merely says the saw is housed in a cabinet.
That distinction gives rise to other distinctions such as less vibration, the method one will invoke to true the saw table to the blade, and DC issues.

Fences:
I prefer the Vega. But so long as the fence doesn't move under the pressure of cutting it should be fine. A saw fence should toe out just a tiny bit (about .003" - .005" across the blade). So if you can place your hand on the fence with a dial indicator mounted and against it then with a little pressure you can move the fence
(whether it's spring bending or moving along the rail) I'd say it's too sloppy - get a better one.

Power issues:
Honestly I say you are letting the tail wag the dog.
Electrical issues are very easily resolved. Install a sub panel with the power you will need and add extra for growth. Installing a Sub Panel is child's play so long as you don't let the child actually do it.
Google it and you will see lots and lots and lots of info even pictures galore.

Looking at sa better saw?
There is always a faster gun. Just like there is always a prettier girl. Match the equipment to your current needs as well as your goals. Buy the very best equipment you can. I went looking at Austrian sliders and got one. Did I really want a Martin? Yeah, but I also want a HH-65A Dolphin Helicopter. I ain't never going to justify either.

Look at the work people are producing on the equipment they have and you will soon realize it's not the machine so much as it is the operator. Yah crappy tools impose limitations, but once you get past a certain threshold in tool quality the skills of the tradesman are the real controlling factor.

[Larry Fox]

For that price point you might want to look in the used market for a vintage Unisaw or PM 66. For $1000 you should be able to do very well.

[Jim Becker]

Given the electrical work you'd need to do...no, it's not a great value, IMHO. The 1023S or 1023SL would be a better choice.

[Jim Hinze]

For what it's worth... I had a delta hybrid from 1992, full 2hp (run on 220v) but with table mounted trunions and the full cabinet. Power was an issue... I always had to watch my feed rate with any 8/4 hard exotics such as purpleheart or bubinga.

I recently aquired 10yr old Grizz 1023 and the power difference is amazing. I have to admit though, I'm not sure how much was a power transfer issue with a single pully vs. the tripple pully in cabinet saws.

I'd get a 220 outlet wired and go for the 1023SL either right or left tilt.

[Larry James]

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G1023S110
I dont have any grizzley tools, but have been really looking hard at this saw, I would prefer a 110 volt saw as I dont have 220 service in my workshop. I'd like my purchase to be under $1,000.

...Is the shop fox fence as good or better than my standard delta fence?...

...Should I be considering a left tilt saw or looking harder at another saw?...
Jeff,

Strange. I have a griz 444Z TS with a 110/220, 2 HP motor that is shipped wired for 220 volts. Looking at the spec sheet for the 1023S, there does not not seem be be a 220 volt wiring option. I would avoid any 2 HP motor that is not dual voltage.

I'm very satisfied with the quality and capabilities of my Grizzly saw and the Shop Fox fence. Sorry I did not go left tilt -$$$ issue. However, if they are selling power tools with 2 HP, 110 volt motors... I wonder what's up? You will have to rewire in either case. I would still recommend Grizzly, but not that saw.

Larry

[Steven Shelby]

FWIW, I can tell you that I was faced with a very similar decision about a year ago.

I needed to upgrade and wanted to go to a hybrid or cabinet saw, had to be able to store it in the garage/shop and still park cars, budget was <$1k, wanted significant hp and wanted whatever I got to be my last saw. I also was without 220v service.

After research and input from Jim, Scott, and others on this forum, I had the electrician wire the shop for 220, and I chose the 1023SL. I absolutely do not regret it. I remember Tod's one line: "Cast iron and horsepower!" And he's right. I think you should suck it up and spend the 2 or 3 bills to have the 220v put in your shop. You will not regret it, IMHO!

Enjoy!

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Looking at the spec sheet for the 1023S, there does not not seem be be a 220 volt wiring option. I would avoid any 2 HP motor that is not dual voltage.


According to the manual for the G1023S110, it can be wired for 220 V, but you would need a new magnetic switch.

[Jeff Monson]

Thanks for all the good input guys, I dont have a 30amp circuit for the saw on my panel so I think the right decision is to run a service to my workshop for 220.

There is a jet 3hp cabinet saw with a beisemeyer fence and router extension wing on sale at my local WW store for 1100.00, after alot of thought and good input from all of my fellow creekers, I think thats the way I'll go. After all it is the last saw I'd like to buy.:) But then again thats what I said when I bought my Delta :confused:

Good logical feedback really makes the buying experience easier.

[Jim Hinze]

I think you'll be VERY happy with that Saw... remember pictures when you bring it home :)


Thanks for all the good input guys, I dont have a 30amp circuit for the saw on my panel so I think the right decision is to run a service to my workshop for 220.

There is a jet 3hp cabinet saw with a beisemeyer fence and router extension wing on sale at my local WW store for 1100.00, after alot of thought and good input from all of my fellow creekers, I think thats the way I'll go. After all it is the last saw I'd like to buy.:) But then again thats what I said when I bought my Delta :confused:

Good logical feedback really makes the buying experience easier.

[scott spencer]

Thanks for all the good input guys, I dont have a 30amp circuit for the saw on my panel so I think the right decision is to run a service to my workshop for 220.

There is a jet 3hp cabinet saw with a beisemeyer fence and router extension wing on sale at my local WW store for 1100.00, after alot of thought and good input from all of my fellow creekers, I think thats the way I'll go. After all it is the last saw I'd like to buy.:) But then again thats what I said when I bought my Delta :confused:

Good logical feedback really makes the buying experience easier.

Better move in the long run IMHO....never heard of anyone regretting taking a step up!

[Paul Simmel]

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/g1023s.htm ... Something I found to help me in my decision to purchase this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1023SLW Couldn't agree more with others about upgrading your electrical. Good luck, Paul

[Erik C. Hammarlund]

Here is a link to the fine woodworking article on cabinet saws. (http://www.sawstop.com/media/W184JOp46-p51.pdf)

From that link, you can read the info on the grizzly 10 inch.

Then you can go to the grizzly site and see what is different on "your" saw than the saw they review, and make your own decisions that way.