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View Full Version : Miter Saw out by less than 1/32nd



Tim Brooks
10-17-2006, 4:09 PM
While this variance usually doesn't matter much, I am working on a project where this is creating a great deal of consternation for me. I have tried truing it up but this small variance is so small, using a speed square simply isn't helping me correct it. What else can I do to correct this?

Lars Thomas
10-17-2006, 5:01 PM
Off by 1/32" over how wide?

Jim Becker
10-17-2006, 5:12 PM
Check the miter saw fence for alignment and "flatness"...mine has been wacky forever, causing variance in setups. Silly me never knew any better when it was actually in warranty. I've been meaning to replace it with a shop-build solution for some time, but never got around to it.

Phil Phelps
10-17-2006, 5:27 PM
While this variance usually doesn't matter much, I am working on a project where this is creating a great deal of consternation for me. I have tried truing it up but this small variance is so small, using a speed square simply isn't helping me correct it.
What else can I do to correct this?

...where you see 45*, write in bold letters ALMOST, and take it back

Brent Grooms
10-17-2006, 9:47 PM
you mention using a speed square to check it with. Have you tried a machine setup square or something that is known to be accurate?

Dan Jurta
10-18-2006, 3:09 PM
This probably sounds dumb, but make sure that the fence and table are absolutely clean. Small woodchips or a bit of glue squeeze out can put you out of square.

Dan

Erik C. Hammarlund
10-18-2006, 3:32 PM
perhaps the problem is that you're using a speed square.

You may want to try using a larger square. And also (I often forget this) you should check your square for squareness. A framing square would be a nice size though they are rarely truly square. Still, they can be adjusted.

Don't forget to check BOTH SIDES of your fence. That is, if you use both sides when cutting.

If it were me I'd go the "fiddle" route:

I'd start with a pefectly planed and jointed board of the maximum width my saw would cut of a length approaching 3-4 feet.


I'd use a known-to-be-perfect square to draw a series of lines
across the board. Or perhaps I'd use a knife for more accuracy. i'd try to draw 3 lines or so every inch.

I'd start cutting. And seeing how square (or not) things were. And tweaking. And cutting again. And so on. i'd have 36 tries every foot so I bet it wouldn't take more than 2 feet to get things perfect.

Personally, I always have a lot more luck adjusting to a cut than I do trying to adjust the blade itself. But maybe that's just me.

Larry Fox
10-18-2006, 4:48 PM
Kinda along the lines ow what you are asking.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=33532

For me, I have never quite trusted my CMS so it gets used for rough cuts.

glenn bradley
10-18-2006, 9:14 PM
My DeWalt cuts dead on. I can get skip or blade path deviation on compund miter cuts if I rush the cut. If your blade is good and sharp (and the wood isn't cruely hard) I would expect better than average accuracy. Then again I'm pretty much a rookie and have trouble being accurate on the simple stuff at times. ;-)

Norman Hitt
10-19-2006, 3:26 AM
While this variance usually doesn't matter much, I am working on a project where this is creating a great deal of consternation for me. I have tried truing it up but this small variance is so small, using a speed square simply isn't helping me correct it. What else can I do to correct this?

I've got about 4 speed squares, and not one of them is dead on accurate, or even exactly the same as any of the others. They are definitely not accurate enough, (unless you have an extremely rare one), for tool setups. I have a couple of sizes of 30/60/90 and 45/45/90 plastic drafting triangles that I use for tool setups and they are accurate, relative inexpensive and easy to use. You might try one of those and see if you don't get much better results.

Tim Brooks
10-19-2006, 8:57 AM
Wow! I was shocked when I came back this morning to see what was going on at the creek to find that I had a number of new post to my question. Thanks for all of the tips. Now, I have a couple of new ideas to try.

I will give these a try and see what happends.

Thanks again everyone...

Peter West
10-19-2006, 9:37 AM
I've got about 4 speed squares, and not one of them is dead on accurate,
Has anyone tried these.

http://www.empirelevel.com/squares/rafter_squares/


They are available in the UK and the retailer says they are the most accurate and popular squares in the US.

None I have tried so far are truly square and I was wondering if these might be woth a go.

josh bjork
10-19-2006, 10:41 AM
I do this a little more old fashioned. I know using a square is frustrating. Changing squares doesn't make it more enjoyable. An alternative is to use a straight board. Mark the back of the board, make a cut close to the middle. Flip one piece and butt the cuts together. Check if the board is straight. If you don't cut at 90* the board won't be straight. If you cut it square, it will be. And it will be on, not sorta close.

Bryan Somers
10-19-2006, 12:05 PM
I do this a little more old fashioned. I know using a square is frustrating. Changing squares doesn't make it more enjoyable. An alternative is to use a straight board. Mark the back of the board, make a cut close to the middle. Flip one piece and butt the cuts together. Check if the board is straight. If you don't cut at 90* the board won't be straight. If you cut it square, it will be. And it will be on, not sorta close.


This is the way I tuned up my riged CMS for 90 degree cuts. It puts you about as close as you will get