Question about router table tops

[J. Scott Chambers]

I am currently working on a router cabinet similar to Bill Esposito, and had planned to use two pieces of 3/4" MDF with an insert plate for the top. I then came across an article by Pat Warner that described how he used a raw 5/8" MDF and just attached the router directly to the top, with no plate. This seems like a much simpler solution.

Has anyone used this method and if so, have you had any problems with it? The top will be supported underneath across the short dimension in 4 places.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I've made several tops over the years, including both types you describe. I now have a pair of JoinTech phenolic tops that I gave a bit over $100 each for on sale (24 x 32 or something like that). They come with a standard size insert hole cut into them, and I think you can get the solid piece if you want to cut your own.

KC

[Travis Porter]

I did one out of 3/4 MDF and banded it with maple way back. I would think it would be ok as long as it has enough support underneath to keep it from sagging. When I did do this top, I did recess the router into the top say by a 1/4" so that my screws would be long enough. I used it for about 5 years with no real issues, just wanted to upgrade.

[Ray Bersch]

Scott, the beauty of both your plan and the Pat Warner idea is that they are cheap, easy to make and easy to replace - I used the Warner concept for quite a while and it worked fine for me. So you can do whatever feels good now and easily repace it later. You may want to consider a plate, however, because it allows you to insert a pin for when you do not use a fence (or install an insert for a pin in your MDF top) but it is also easier to pick up and get at the router.

Ray

[Jim Becker]

While my personal preference is the double-thick MDF top with plastic laminate and a metal plate or lift, there are so many ways to accomplish this task including the one you cite. As long as you consider the weight of the router, possible depth of cut compromises and how supported the top is, there is no reason you couldn't mount the router directly to the top.

One safety consideration...a simple hole for the bit is cheap, but having inserts that keep things "close" helps reduce the chance of catching material in the gap between the cutter and the table top.

[Dave Falkenstein]

My first router table top was similar to the one you described by Pat Warner. It worked well enough for my needs at that time. In my second top I used a Rockler plate with plastic inserts to size the hole to the bit - that was an improvement. My third top used a Woodpecker plate with twist-lock inserts - yet another level of improvement. My fourth and current top uses a Woodpecker lift with twist-lock inserts. I am not planning a fifth top - yet.

I have a detailed description of how I made a double thickness 3/4 MDF top with laminated surfaces and hardwood edges. I will email it to you if you email me your address - daviddubya (at) qwest.net.

[Byron Trantham]

Two layers of 3/4" MDF, wrapped with oak, covered with formica and a metal insert (PRL) from Woodpeckers. Solid as a tank. Other than the PRL is was cheap to make.:D

[Dan Clark]

I'm planning my first router table. I'm looking at the a JoinTech phenolic top with a Woodpecker plate. They look like a great combo, but...

Even though the JoinTech has a "standard" hole and the Woodpecker plate is a "standard" size, has anyone tried these together? Any issues to be concerned about?

Thanks,

Dan.


I've made several tops over the years, including both types you describe. I now have a pair of JoinTech phenolic tops that I gave a bit over $100 each for on sale (24 x 32 or something like that). They come with a standard size insert hole cut into them, and I think you can get the solid piece if you want to cut your own.

KC

[glenn bradley]

The limitation of a fixed size hole for the bit bothered me. If it was big enough for larger bits, there was too much gap around the smaller ones for good dust collection and support of smaller pieces being profiled. I went with a plate and make ZCI's out of 1/8 hardboard (the vendor wants $10 each for their plastic ones???). No complaints but I am doubling my 3/4 MDF top during my current rebuild. The 3/4" actually sagged a bit even though it is supported by the manufacturer's frame work. Apparently the support structure wasn't as good as I thought it was. It will be better supported in my redesign.

[DONALD MORRIS]

I am currently working on a router cabinet similar to Bill Esposito, and had planned to use two pieces of 3/4" MDF with an insert plate for the top. I then came across an article by Pat Warner that described how he used a raw 5/8" MDF and just attached the router directly to the top, with no plate. This seems like a much simpler solution.

Has anyone used this method and if so, have you had any problems with it? The top will be supported underneath across the short dimension in 4 places.



I've had a table that I bought on line a few years back and it has served me well. I decided after using this table that I wanted a table without the aluminum t-slots for securing the fence and I preferred a pivoting fence. I bought a Summerfeld phenolic table on closeout for $99 and I'm making my own fence. Summerfeld offered a phenolic table with about 4" hole and 2 aluminum inserts........eliminating the large plate. I don't know if they still stock the tables but they do stock the plates with inserts and the hardware for the fence.

[Rick Thom]

Has anyone experience with the Oak Park router table systems, and specifically their vacu-plate system.
http://ca.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BP-PC04-
It is a 11" plate with 1 1/2' hole and several different sized rings, but also has 2 areas on the plate for dust /chip collection which are ported through the plate to the vacumn via a simple manifold under the table. About $70 I think. This is maybe the system seen on The Router Workshop since I learned about it through that website.
Good, bad, indifferent?

[David Rose]

I built this table/cabinet and installed the router directly to the bottom. I did end up having to recess the double thickness 3/4" ply, and I installed a Rouseau (sp?) insert in the top. The plywood sagged after a couple of years and I added some angle iron reinforcement. The top is a tilt design but heavy with the iron. The Dewalt 625 under it requires bit removal from the bottom, so I have a steel plate that is going to replace the entire base of the router (and also serve as a plate) at some point for top of table bit removal.

Rats! Couldn't figure out how to reference a previous post's pics. Too late to figure it out tonight. I've already used all the applicable pics on the Creek in the past. If anyone is interested, I can find them.

David

[Norman Hitt]

I have had both types, (router mounted directly to the table top, and phenolic and metal plates), and I absolutely HATED having the router mounted directly to the table top, and limited to one size hole also. There are just too many times when it is easier and faster to have it mounted on a plate and just jerk the whole thing out, lay it on the table top, do what needs to be done, and flop it back into it's recess and get back to work. Different strokes for different folks I guess. My preference is a plate or lift from Woodpeckers and their twistlock inserts. I just wish it was the same size as the Oak Park phenolic plates, (which are larger and square and can be mounted in any direction).

[Alan Turner]

At PFW we built a router table top of two layers of 3/4" MDF, using the Jointech plate with inserts. Hard maple edging, just for appearance sake.

It sits on a cabinet 42" wide by 24" deep, with vertical center supports about 13" off of each end. This gies us a door and drawers for storage. A shelf below the router gives us a dust chamber, and more storage.

We then attached 1x1 hard maple to the edges of the cabinet ends and center dividers, and drilled and tapped for 1/4 x 20 elevator screws, and so can level the top at any time it sags. We used 4 rows of 4 screws. This has worked quite well.

[J. Scott Chambers]

Thanks for all the great input, definitely gives me some things to think about on this one. I like the idea of being able to quickly access the router for bit changes. I'll probably keep this first top simple, until I get the hang of it and nail down my real needs for the top.

Any concerns for using MDF in an uninsulated, unconditioned garage? The climate here is kind of humid in the summer.

Again, thanks for all the help.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

The bigger you make it the greater the issues of deflection and warping become.

[Al Willits]

I have one of the Rockler set ups, it has the plate and works pretty nice for the stuff I've done so far, but I was wondering if I ever built one that I might try one of the solid counter top materials, just wonder how something like Corian would work?

Al

[glenn bradley]

I sealed my MDF outfeed table - top, bottom and sides with polyurethane. It has given me no trouble but, SoCal weather (or the lack thereof) is pretty mild.