Plugged Cermark Spray Can

[Pat Kearney]

I'm hoping someone can help solve an issue I have. About 4 months ago I bought a spray can of Cermark and used it twice. After use, as per the the manufacturer's instructions, I turned the can upside down and sprayed out any excess. Now I try using it again and it's plugged. I soaked the nozzle in warm water, alcohol, and tried everything I can think of but still it's still not working. After soaking the nozzle it does gives a couple of very small sprays and then plugs again. At over $120 Canadian that's a couple of very expensive uses.:eek: Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you.

PAT

[Joe Pelonio]

That's always been a problem with the spray can version and why I don't use it. When you said alcohol was it denatured? That's what I'd suggest, not rubbing. Can you try another nozzle from a new can of spray paint that fits?

[Michael McDuffie]

Altho the nozzle plugs sometimes on me, I confess to not having cleaned the nozzle in the last month or so. I think you may have a plugged dip tube or valve. Try shaking the snot out of the can for longer than you are willing to and also try a different nozzle if you can find one.

I have a bunch of almost empty cans that have gotten lumpy and plan to vent them upside down to release pressure then punching a hole to harvest the Cermark.

Michael

[Pat Kearney]

Thanks guys, it was rubbing alcohol I used and not denatured alcohol. What is the difference and do you know where can I get the denatured kind?
As for shaking I have shaken it more than I ever thought my arm would take and tried a nozzle from a spray paint can - still no go.

[Michael McDuffie]

Bummer, sounds like you have a plugged valve. If you are brave and have good vision care, you could try pushing the valve (the plastic bit in the top of the can) in with a blunt object. Either nothing will happen or you'll be glad you put on your safety glasses.

If you can get it to vent the propellant, you may want to do so and punch a hole in the can with a prick punch or big nail and then go the air brush route.

You might see if you can get a refund or replacement, they did go through a can redesign about a year ago due to clogging.

Denatured alcohol comes from the hardware store, somewhere near the paint. It is what I use when thinning Cermark for my air brush.

Michael

[Rodne Gold]

Denatured is when they add horrible tasting stuff that stops ppl drinking it , like the bitter stuff they add to meths.Best way to apply metal pastes is use an airbrush.
We use a paasche with a no 5 nozzle and have found the trick is to use a gravity feed hopper not the bottle. We built perspex boxes to spray in and scrape off the overspray to re-use. We have also found Cermark stains some metal objects if you pre spray and dont use immediately, a major problem.

[Pat Kearney]

I'll have to try the denatured alcohol. As for replacing the can I would say the shipping costs to send the old can back to the US and a new one to where I am located would be prohibitive. If the denatured alcohol doesn't work I may have to try the safety glasses.....:eek:

[Carl Sewell]

Pat;

Check the top of your can for an inkjet number of 331405. It's a known bad lot of Cermark. I had a similar problem with a can from that lot. Even though the can was out of the 6-month warranty period, Ferro replaced the can without charge to me! And I didn't have to return the bad can. :eek:

[Dean Flannery]

I had the same thing happen to a brand new can that had been setting on the shelf for a couple of months.

This was a rush job and I couldn't wait for a new can so after trying everthing I could think of I removed the label and soaked the can in medium hot water, shook the daylights out of it and it started working !

As a side question are the cans supposed to have a agitator ball ?

Dean

[Mike Mackenzie]

This was posted on another forum by the MFG's of the cans.


Copyright © 2006 by Ferro Corporation, Cleveland OH.

Appendix to LMM-6000 Aerosol Can Instructions
How to prevent the LMM-6000 Aerosol Can From Clogging

LMM-6000 Aerosol Cans

LMM-6000 is our laser marking material for metals. LMM-6000 is ethanol based which allows for a fast drying
time. It can be used on a variety of bare metal substrates including stainless steel, brass, aluminum, titanium, tin,
copper, nickel and the like. If the metal has a lacquered coating, the LMM-6000 marking material will not work.

LMM-6000 is ready to use in aerosol can form. IMPORTANT: Shake can well before using. Allow the
agitator ball to rattle for at least 2 minutes. Failure to shake thoroughly can result in spitting and clogging
of the nozzle. For best results, use when can is between 70 and 90 degrees F. Complete instructions are available
in the Technical Publication “LMM-6000 Aerosol Can Instructions”.

Preventing Clogging Problems

The LMM-6000 Aerosol Can package has in the past been known to clog or spit during normal
usage. These issues were related to the material settling in the bottom of the can. The settled
material could be sucked into the nozzle and valve system of the can, as seen to the right,
causing a clog. The LMM-6000 Aerosol Can has been reformulated to correct this issue, and
the settling has been largely eliminated.

Some users may still experience clogging of the LMM-6000 can. Our testing has determined
that this may be due to a problem with the valve used on the can. The gasket in the valve may not completely seal,
causing leakage to occur. If it occurs, the leakage can be seen under the
nozzle, in the metal cup, as seen to the right. The gasket problem can cause
clogging and leaking of the can.
To help prevent this condition, we recommend a thorough cleaning of the
nozzle and valve after each use of the can. The nozzle should be removed
from the can and cleaned with warm water. The can valve should also be
cleaned well with warm water to remove all traces of LMM-6000 material.
Spinning the nozzle slightly while removing and inserting into the can valve
will also help loosen any dried material that could cause clogging. Keeping
the valve and nozzle system clean should allow continued use of the LMM-
6000 Aerosol Can.

[Michael McDuffie]

I had the same thing happen to a brand new can that had been setting on the shelf for a couple of months.

This was a rush job and I couldn't wait for a new can so after trying everthing I could think of I removed the label and soaked the can in medium hot water, shook the daylights out of it and it started working !

As a side question are the cans supposed to have a agitator ball ?

Dean

Yes they have an agitator ball, I have shaken (shooked?) a can so much that it had a pattern of dents all 'round the bottom.

I've also had a can develop a pin hole about 1/4" up from the bottom. Went out to the garage and found Cermark all over the workbench.

Sometimes, I store cans on their sides thinking it will help with the settling, not sure if it makes a difference.

When shaking a can, I also swirl it around so the ball can break up any lumps around the edge.

Michael

[Pat Kearney]

Just checked the rim of the can and guess what it has 331405 1342 on the rim. I will check the FERRO website for an email address but just in case someone has one at their fingertips can you forward it along to me?
This is what I love about the internet and specifically this site!
Thanks again.

PAT

[Carl Sewell]

Here's a couple of contacts. Try Wanda first.

To place an order, please contact:
Wanda McDowell 800-245-4951 ext. 5167 (724) 229-5167
Customer Service Representative
mcdowellw@ferro.com


Sean Weir
(724) 229-5161
Chemist, Research and Development

[Bruce Volden]

Pat,


I have yet to use a spray can, airbrush....I do however recommend just getting a "tub 'o the stuff" and thinning it out with DNA-denatured alcohol, and applying it with FOAM style brushes!! Don't be afraid of thinning it out and experimenting with your application. I have thinned it out to almost transparent and engraved many a knife with it, with success!! You can purchase different widths of the foamy brushes for next to nothing, and, yes the brushes can be rinsed out (before Ceredc dries) and RE-USED!!! Just a thought.


Bruce

[Pete Thomas]

I would like to second Bruce's reply that is exacty how I apply. Also if need be you can also apply a second coat. Works Great!! I use a wide mouth jar from miced garlic, boy you can really smell the garlic, has no effect on the final out come. Over time the cermark dries up in the jar, just add more DNA and you back in business.

-pete

[Pat Kearney]

Thanks everyone. I had found Wanda's name on Ferro's website and emailed her. She responded and the company who I purchased the Cermark from is going to send me another can - Yahoo!!!!:)

Thanks again everyone.

PAT

[Lorene Fangman]

Question :) How come when I added a couple of drops of DNA to my 1/4 of a jar cermark paste and mixed it well, and applied it, the laser never even touched it? I ran it at 500 dpi, 95% power and 500 speed? Twice none the less, then switched to a new jar and had no problems, I have a different laser than what I see others have, mine is a LaserMaster L10 by CamTech. I would appreciate any pointers on this. I am self taught as alot of people on here are and really appreciate the forum and all you knowledgable people for all you have to offers us!! Thanks so much!!...Lorene Fangman