Pens & questions

[Chris Oakley]

Here are some of my first attempts at pens. Actually my first attempt completely split apart, which brings me to my first question. What causes the pen to split from the tube, improper adhesion, bad technique or something else? Secondly, on the American style twist pens two of the pens I made do not retract the ballpoint unless I push down on it. Is this a cheap pen or a problem in the way I made it? THANKS for your help. By the way, the pens are bubinga, hondurus rosewood and tulipwood.

[Joe Pack]

Not an expert, but I may have some hints (read that "made my share of mistakes) that might help.

First, I use 2-part epoxy, not CA or "super glue" on all glue ups. The epoxy is gap filling, and is not brittle like super glue. The only problem I ever had since switching to epoxy is when I didn't let it set up enough. I use 20 minute if I'm doing a bunch of glue ups at once, or the 5 minute type if I'm just doing a couple. I give the 20 minute stuff an hour to set, and the 5 minute stuff gets 20 minutes or so. And I use lots of it - enough that it rubs off the tubes as I twist and push them in.

As to the mechanism problem, I have found that the cap length is absolutely critical on the American Classic pens. My supplier (Berea Hardwoods, which also supplies Woodcraft and, maybe, others), specifies 1 13/16" (if I remember correctly) for the cap, but this is just a skosh too long! They (Berea) now have a gauge for Euro, American and other length-critical pens. The gauge length is about 1/16" shorter than the specified length. Since I have been using the gauge, I have not had problems with a mechanism not working.

Keep up the good work. Your relatives will have to start writing letters instead of e-mails!

[Ken Salisbury]

Here are some of my first attempts at pens. Actually my first attempt completely split apart, which brings me to my first question. What causes the pen to split from the tube, improper adhesion, bad technique or something else? For wood pen blanks I use polyurethane glue (Allow 12 to 24 hours drying time) which I find to work a lot better than CA glue (still use that for acrylics/corian. Almost never have a "split apart".
p.s. Wear examination gloves when applying poly glue - the stuff turns your fingers black and is close to impossible to remove.
Secondly, on the American style twist pens two of the pens I made do not retract the ballpoint unless I push down on it. Is this a cheap pen or a problem in the way I made it? THANKS for your help. By the way, the pens are bubinga, hondurus rosewood and tulipwood.What Joe said is correct: "As to the mechanism problem, I have found that the cap length is absolutely critical on the American Classic pens. My supplier (Berea Hardwoods, which also supplies Woodcraft and, maybe, others), specifies 1 13/16" (if I remember correctly) for the cap, but this is just a skosh too long! They (Berea) now have a gauge for Euro, American and other length-critical pens."

The gauge Joe referred to is also used for some other Berea kits with crtical dimensions. I have a self made go-no go gauge I use on the FT and Euro kits (made before Berea came out with their gauge). As a matter of fact I will be selling the Berea gauges in Starter Kits at Woodworks 2003.

Attached is a drawing I made to help Dennis Peacock when he was having the same problem. The 1 13/16" length for the upper portion is a maximum dimension.